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Need to make a counterweight - Ariston RD40

24.59.224.194

Posted on October 22, 2020 at 07:11:17
Byrd69
Audiophile

Posts: 2452
Location: East Syracuse, New York
Joined: August 23, 2004
I need to make the brass counterweight under the platter of my Ariston RD40.

Considering using a row of brass washers on a metal rod until the appropriate weight (unknown) is achieved.

Any suggestions are welcome.

That's not my table in broken down photo.












Your interest may vary but the results are the same (Byrd 2020)

I can't compete with the dead. (Buck W. 2010)

Cowards can't be heroes. (Byrd 2017)

 

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RE: Need to make a counterweight - Ariston RD40, posted on October 23, 2020 at 02:18:52
Story
Audiophile

Posts: 4011
Location: NJ
Joined: December 11, 2000
Contributor
  Since:
February 21, 2019
your table is a very nice one BTW. I almost bought one years ago.

Those weights are slotted to fit on the rod and you would have to get a quite a few washers and cut them with a dremel to fit on the rod. I take it that the spring tension on the cylinder is not adjustable and the reason for the weights is to level the table. Without the originals this is going to be a tough one, but it would seem that some trial and error with different weights on the rod will have to do until you can obtain weights.



!...!


 

Here's one approach, posted on October 23, 2020 at 09:48:28
Bill Way
Audiophile

Posts: 1652
Location: Toms River NJ
Joined: May 28, 2012
Contributor
  Since:
December 14, 2012
Measure the diameter of the rod precisely, print a picture, and gather whatever other specs you need. Then go to your nearest tool and die shop and have them make it up. You'll find them in the neighborhood where auto-body shops are. I've found they always welcome oddball one-off jobs and charge surprisingly little for this kind of work. They could also drill and tap the disks for set-screws to hold them in place.

WW
"They were running on fumes, dazed and confused, in a high-powered automobile."

 

RE: Here's one approach, posted on October 23, 2020 at 10:00:21
rivervalley817
Audiophile

Posts: 2798
Joined: June 15, 2020
I wonder how 3D printing would handle such a task

are you aware of anyone that's used or tried that as a solution Bill?

regards,

 

RE: Here's one approach, posted on October 23, 2020 at 13:06:15
Bill Way
Audiophile

Posts: 1652
Location: Toms River NJ
Joined: May 28, 2012
Contributor
  Since:
December 14, 2012
I hadn't thought of that. It should be an option for anyone with access to a printer that can do it.
"They were running on fumes, dazed and confused, in a high-powered automobile."

 

RE: Here's one approach, posted on October 23, 2020 at 16:40:43
Byrd69
Audiophile

Posts: 2452
Location: East Syracuse, New York
Joined: August 23, 2004
I don't have the rod or the weights. All I have is a threaded hole to go by. I tried a couple bolts from the tractor supply today to see if I could get one to thread. Nope...too coarse. It may be 7/16 dia, but I need finer threads.

If I can get the right threaded rod, I'm certain I can load it with brass washers. There would be no need to have set screws for them. O rings on both sides could keep them in place. Epoxy works wonders too.

Crude but possibly quite effective.




Your interest may vary but the results are the same (Byrd 2020)

I can't compete with the dead. (Buck W. 2010)

Cowards can't be heroes. (Byrd 2017)

 

RE: Here's one approach, posted on October 23, 2020 at 16:47:55
pictureguy
Audiophile

Posts: 13227
Location: SoCal
Joined: October 19, 2008
7/16-20 is NF for that size.
Sure you dont' have metric?

Look up NF Bolt or similar on Google to find fine thread sizes and thread pitch.
Too much is never enough

 

RE: Here's one approach, posted on October 23, 2020 at 18:14:11
Byrd69
Audiophile

Posts: 2452
Location: East Syracuse, New York
Joined: August 23, 2004
I just grabbed what I could see during a spur of the moment visit to Tractor Supply...without my glasses. The bolts are in bins and easy to inspect. I looked at metric briefly but they were all in packages and difficult to see. It's probably metric since it was made in Scotland.

Hiawatha Fasteners (an amazing place) is a few miles away. I'll be headed over there to see what they might have to help me.


Your interest may vary but the results are the same (Byrd 2020)

I can't compete with the dead. (Buck W. 2010)

Cowards can't be heroes. (Byrd 2017)

 

RE: Here's one approach, posted on October 23, 2020 at 19:49:02
pictureguy
Audiophile

Posts: 13227
Location: SoCal
Joined: October 19, 2008
the local Home Despot has a mediocre but commercial selection of nuts and bolts. Even some overpriced stainless.
But if you go in with an 'unknown'? They have a place with labels....to give it a test screw. One section SAE and the other for Metric. That narrows it down fairly quickly.

I have a thread pitch gauge out in the box with the tap / die set.
Too much is never enough

 

"O rings on both sides could keep them in place" I used nuts and washers on my counterweight-less Syntec ..., posted on October 24, 2020 at 04:09:48
J. S. Bach
Audiophile

Posts: 9183
Location: Chester, SC
Joined: November 28, 2001
Contributor
  Since:
June 29, 2004
...s-220 tonearm until I got a proper setup:




Here is the proper setup complete with anti-skate:



Note thaat I noticed no real difference between the two.

Later Gator,
Dave
Find more about Weather in Chester, SC

 

Dang...the hole isn't threaded, posted on October 24, 2020 at 10:22:26
Byrd69
Audiophile

Posts: 2452
Location: East Syracuse, New York
Joined: August 23, 2004
It's just a hole in the casting. May be tapered inward slightly. It's hard to tell. Kinda crude looking.


Your interest may vary but the results are the same (Byrd 2020)

I can't compete with the dead. (Buck W. 2010)

Cowards can't be heroes. (Byrd 2017)

 

RE: Dang...the hole isn't threaded, posted on October 24, 2020 at 10:57:06
pictureguy
Audiophile

Posts: 13227
Location: SoCal
Joined: October 19, 2008
You can use a 'self tapping' screw for metal
OR
Drill to whatever next size up is that if the size for a tap. Make it Metric OR SAE......

For example? a #7 drill for 1/4-20
consult a chart. Depending on the material, you may want a deep thread (90%) or less......

right now? I'm drilling in a VERY hard industrial Lexan and tapping 1/4-20. I'm using a 13/64 bit since I don't have 'number' or 'letter' bits. Enough thread engagement for my purpose......
Too much is never enough

 

RE: Dang...the hole isn't threaded, posted on October 24, 2020 at 11:05:49
rivervalley817
Audiophile

Posts: 2798
Joined: June 15, 2020
you're overthinking this IMO, do the brass washers with O rings mod & be happy ... a dibble of silicone between the washers to damp and cohere will help ... I'd wager you'll not revisit this project in your lifetime

with regards,



 

I overthink buying a bag of oranges, posted on October 24, 2020 at 12:09:19
Byrd69
Audiophile

Posts: 2452
Location: East Syracuse, New York
Joined: August 23, 2004
You're right.

...a few trips back and forth to the garage and it's done, for the time being.

It's level, the suspension has a good amount of play, the posts are not way out of whack from each other, and it turns nice. I can tell there's some weakening of the springs but I'm able to adjust for it.

Time to oil it up and put it into play. I'll be selling it, so I'll pretty up the cob job so it doesn't look so much like a cob job.







Your interest may vary but the results are the same (Byrd 2020)

I can't compete with the dead. (Buck W. 2010)

Cowards can't be heroes. (Byrd 2017)

 

RE: I overthink buying a bag of oranges, posted on October 24, 2020 at 12:34:03
rivervalley817
Audiophile

Posts: 2798
Joined: June 15, 2020
sweet!

if you can shrink wrap those washers it will look like the factory did it!

with regards,

 

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