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Tubes Asylum Questions about tubes and gear that glows. FAQ |
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In Reply to: dont even own a soldering iron posted by Rich Wenzel on January 21, 2005 at 15:14:00:
Hi Rich;Okay, no kit-building or rebuilding for you (now at least).
Re-reading your post (graduate school!) I understand the sort of tight budget situation you're probably in, and will make a few suggestions accordingly.
Having read KT88's comparison of the 102 to the 202, I would lean towards the 202 IF you can afford to maintain it's valve complement. A matched quartet of EL34's will set you back between $50USD and say $70USD for new manufacture. Then remember that you'll need one pair each of 12AX7 and 12AT7. Figure about $10USD to $13USD each for decent new manufacture on those.
You really SHOULD keep at least one spare set of valves against future need! I've had 'em go out suddenly before, and it's always good to know you've at least one full set of spares on hand....
The 102 uses a quartet of EL84 (haven't kept up with prices, since I bought a few dozen of 'em dirt cheap a few years back when $$ wasn't so tight!) and a pair of 12AX7's.
FWIW, I bought my 202 from Galen Carol in Texas (mail order) and had no troubles with the order at all - I strongly recommend that you check into his current prices. The amp came shipped in a stout "double box" (one box inside the other, separated by about 3" of foam spacers!) and UPS' best efforts couldn't damage the contents.
Also, on valve suppliers, I strongly recommend Ned at Triode Electronics. There are certainly other suppliers who do a great job, but I've personally had only good experiences ordering from Triode Electronics. Valves are always well-packed against damage, and his prices are good.
I've no connection with either Galen Carol or Triode Electronics, except as a satisfied customer!
Thoughts on speaker wire - when $$ is super tight, 14 or 16 ga lamp cord rules (DO NOT buy the stuff in translucent jackets - the type of plastic used causes the wire to oxidize too quickly - get the stuff in brown or white or black opaque jackets that's sold for re-wiring lamps). Go to your local hardware store and buy runs that allow for about an extra 1 foot for each speaker. That way you can trim the ends off periodically to get rid of corrosion (say once every year or so). DO NOT HANDLE the bare wire with your hands, or skin oils will cause them to oxidize very quickly. When you're out of grad-school, you can indulge in the mega-dollar wire if you like. For now it's a waste IMHO.
Interconnects can be made at home easily enough (far easier than an amp!) or you could go with something like the Monster Cable 400 MK II. I think they're still around $40 per 1 metre run and have a pleasant, warm sound that's not offensive to the ear (is there better out there - YES - but this is a "best buy" in my book). Be advised that if you can get someone to help out with the cables, you can build a clone of the Monster Cable 400MKII for about 1/3 the cost, using parts from Parts Express (the Dayton "Professional Microphone" wire, along with some of their better RCA connectors). I've bought a lot of stuff from Parts Express and have yet to regret it - again, the "no connection but a satisfied customer" comment applies here.
One last thought on speakers; I don't know much about the current factory made jobs (I'm rolling my own these days), but if you want to economize without sacrificing good sound, you could consider building some Fostex fullrangers. These go all the way from little 3" drivers up to 8" "affordable quasi-Lowthers" (no flames please!). Which one would be best for you and your situation is a subject unto itself, and can best be answered by the folks over at the Fullrange Forum. Not that you MUST use fullrangers - my "wife-friendly" front-room system uses a pair of Infinity IL10's driven by my JoLida 202, and the sound is stellar.
Good luck on your amp search and all the best,
Morse
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Follow Ups
- Hmmmm...... - Morse 07:35:28 01/22/05 (1)
- Thanks again - Rich Wenzel 09:51:13 01/22/05 (0)