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RE: An 18 amp battery isn't much power.

Posted by thump (A) on January 14, 2017 at 15:13:39

In Reply to: RE: NEW speakers & wire frying amp at low volumes? posted by fredtr on January 14, 2017 at 05:28:07:

QUOTE: An 18 amp battery isn't much power. I didn't look up your amplifier but some consume a lot of power

the amp shouldn't be consuming a lot of power as it's class D, so it should be at least 80% efficient on a bad day, and i'm not listening at high volumes at all. the battery itself should have at least an 80% charge as that's what the tender's indicator lights claimed the nearly 24 hours i had it on the charger before disconnecting it when i went to bed the next night and wouldn't be able to monitor it.

the amp has two 25 amp fuses i'm guessing that equal 25 amps for the front channels and 25 amps for the rears. it's ALLEGEDLY rated 4x300w at 4 ohms... allegedly. the fuses would say the amp has half the claimed power as 12v x 50ah = 600w. that's fine. i only bought it because it was the cheapest amp i could get that i could bi-amp & bridge. it sounds nice too. i've been a class D fan for years by now, and this amp actually sounds rather laid back and not at all cold & sterile, if not tube lush.

i know 18aH isn't a lot. that's not what i intended for the system once i get it rolling, it was only supposed to be used for testing the system, and in a "lite" system with just the proels which are 96db efficient. i planned on buying 3 more for 72aH, which someone in another forum thought was "too much", but i want long run times, an easy load on the batteries precisely because of the potential to over-drain them, and because i also intend to add a 100w inverter to power 5x8 watt LED lights.

i had just assumed it had to be the new speakers or wires causing the distortion as i haven't used the proels which played fine before i did the overnight charge, BUT i AM pushing the amp harder as the JBLs are only 88dB efficient and require nearly three times the power for the same level i still say isn't even 1 watt

i planned on getting a deluxe volt meter when the system's complete, but have considered it more important now after googling corrosion and learning that negative terminal corrosion indicates undercharging and positive terminal corrosion indicates overcharging. i've already tried to buy a meter locally, but the auto shop i visited didn't have those OR circuit breaker switches.

that the distortion is related to the corrosion just hadn't occurred to me, but it makes sense. i WANTED to buy a charger that works better than the tender, but got little help in a thread i started about that other than a recommendation for $200 "scientific chargers" and a member wanting to sell me a $100 he built, but couldn't be bothered to tell me WHY it was worth that much.

the AGMs are only supposed to be a short term fix until i can afford lighter lithium ion$ or poly$.

i just hooked the charger up, and it's indicating charging at less than 80% now when it should be closer to 99%, making me think the amp's draining the battery when it's off, as feared, with the main power always on.

thank you very much for your help. i'm afraid to even turn the system on now for fear of wasting the amp before i ever even get to really use it.

Edits: 01/14/17 01/14/17 01/14/17 01/14/17 01/14/17

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