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RE: other points...

the terminals are no longer corroded. i swapped the screw & nut for new ones and dropped the washers. the only thing corroded now is the charger's negative alligator clip.

"testing" things is hardly ever possible at goodwill unless you bring your own interconnects & cables and if the have an amp, there's no speakers and if the have speakers, no sources or amps etc. i just don't like buying from them after having to toss a heavy $15 door-stop, i mean receiver stuck in fault mode, because it was too heavy to carry a 2nd time, but everything lit up nice on it until i made the "mistake" of connecting speakers at home. i'd rather buy used gear at a place that properly tests it and guarantees it. i think the charger was just $12, and LOOKED to be in new condition with a box. i doubt it's still there though.

everything worked fine for over an hour last night after the charger indicated a 75%, i believe, charge, until my media player's battery went dead. i do think you were right about the amp undervolting. i gave the battery around a full day's charge after that, and haven't had any issues since. i might have been drawing a lot more power than i thought when the sub was still hooked up.

there's ANOTHER issue i have to resolve as the cone made a plastic buzzing noise on a couple tracks with really deep bass when i turned the mains up to something approaching a normal listening level with the sub bridged and its input maxed plus 50% bass boost too i think. i'm thinking it MIGHT be overexcursion related as it could be an impact related buzz, but my 1st guess was a loose dustcap.

i just powered the amp back up with a low volume load, and the voltage dropped to 12.87v quickly and got down to 12.82v within a few more minutes.



Edits: 01/18/17 01/18/17

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