 
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
|
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
68.222.64.24
In Reply to: Getting ready to start JR's 89259/1506a Twisted IC's but a question on the outer braid posted by marchewd on December 11, 2006 at 20:02:26:
How you place the cap is up to you. Idealyl it should be inside the barrel of the RCA plug, and have HS tubing over the leads so they do not touch the hot wire connection, or short the wrong end to the barrel.However, it takes a large barrel, and a tiny cap to do this, and often times, neither are available. In that case, stop the outer braid short of the metal barrel, connect one end of the cap to it, and wrap it with tape, leaving the cap sticking out, then run the other lead into the barrel end, and make it's connection to ground, then screw the barrel shut. Tape the cap to the outside of the cable near the end of the barrel, so that both of it's leads are insulated from everything else (except for the correct connections, of course), and you're done.
Jon Risch
Follow Ups:
Jon,
Just thought I would share the completed CC89259 speaker cables I made. The first one was rough, but after making the 5th one, it was much easier and the cable looked a lot nicer too! Thanks again and I will post some pictures of the Twisted 89259/1506a IC's when I finish making them up!Happy Holidays,
Dan
Thanks!Merry Christmas,
Dan
Thanks. Yeah, the RS caps I bought are way to big to fit in the barrel. With the Eichmann Bullet plugs having a plastic barrel cap, is it okay to run the braid all the way up to the plastic barrel cap (by the set screw), so I can screw down on the braid?Thanks again,
Dan
I don't have a plug in front of me, but it's OK if the braid does not touch the signal ground at that end (the load end), however, from what I remember, there may not be room inside for that to be avoided.In any case, the outer braid would be pushing against the teflon tape and the spacers, which would not "push back" very much, but could puncture the tape and/or the spacer material, causing the cable to fray at that point, etc. Unless you take care to provide some sort of back-stop for the set-screw that will protect the rest of the innards.
Jon Risch
Jon,
Do you recommend combing out the braid (making a long lead, so-to-speak) on the source end and then twisting it together with the 89259? This way, the shield will not go inside either end of the cable. Is this correct?Thanks,
Dan
On the plugs I use ost of the time, the barrel is large, so I run the braid under the barrel, and then do a very short combed out section, that is tinned and trimmed to size, then soldered to the ground lug along with the ground wire from the twisted pair.You could just run the braid up to near the end of tebarrel, and then comb out a longer section, which is then run under the barrel end, but this essentially stops the shield BEFORE the barrel, and then a portion of the cable is left "unshielded". Now, depending on how you terminate the load end, this can happen a little bit there, but it would be best if it did not also happen at the source end without good reason.
Jon Risch
Jon,
Do you think the bullet plugs are large enough to put the outer braid in the barrel?Thanks,
Dan
Yes, the plastic barrel, but this provides no shielding, since it is not metal. However, it does get the shield that much closer to he plug connections, and so, provides more overall shield for the twisted pair.
Jon Risch
Jon,
Would it make any difference if I used 1/8" heat shrink to cover the resister/89259 or outer braid/89259 wires to the ground lug? I would do this just to make sure it couldn't short the wires, or would it adversely affect the sound quality? As for the outer braid, I will get it as close to the connector as possible without shorting out the wires together, to ensure I have the maximum shielding possible.Thanks again,
Dan
Both of these wire asemblies will be close to the signal carrying wires (remember, the ground wire of the signal pair DOES cary the signal, and will also be affected by any nearby dielectric).Use polyolefin HS to minimize any ill effects, rather than run-of-the-mill PVC HS.
Jon Risch
Jon,
Okay. I have some quality Polyolefin heat shrink. What are your thoughts on cable break in? Do you think cable cookers work great, or is it just better to let the cables break in naturally? I'll let you know when I am finished (making 89259/1506a Twisted IC's, 1695a digital IC, 89259 Subwoofer IC's and CC89259 speaker cables)!Thanks again for all of your help,
Dan
Cables do seem to need some break-in, and it seems trobe related to several diferent factors. Among them, how well the solder joints are done seems to be a large factor, as wel as the materials used.Teflon, silver and other exotic materials se to take longer than their more pedestrian counterparts, so the 89259 cables will probably take a moderate amount of time to break-in, but less than most silver cables seem to need.
RE cable cookers, my personal concern about using them is the possibility of inducing a DC offset to the cooker signal, and thus, temporaily biasing the cable dielectric to one polarity or the other, so my caution would dictate the use of an AC coupling capacitor to assure no DC offset was present on the cooking signal. This possibility of a DC offset is one of the few reasons that I would take seriously for being able to "over cook" a cable.
The other major concern is to taper the signal down slowly when terminating the cooking process, along the lines of a controlled demagnitizer situation, where the magnetic field is gradualy reduced, either via circuitry, or the increased spacing occuring with a manual demangnitizer wand. As far as I am aware, the cookers out there have no such ability to ramp up, or ramp down, the cooking signal, it is applied at full strength at the start, and suddenly removed at the end.
So a means of controlling the cooking signal via a level control would seem to be in order, and this might be posible by running the cooking signal through a preamp or small power amp (with level control) capable of handling the cooker's full signal swing undistorted.Of course, running normal signals through the cable 24/7 for a week or three will probably also provide a large measure of break-in, and is virtually free.
Jon Risch
Jon,
Thanks for your response. I will go with my original plan, which was to use the cables between my pre-amp and amp to break them in and then start switching those cables to the phono pre, cd player, etc. I figure they will break in faster if they are going between these components 24/7, like you said, compared to a few hours a day if I just kept them attached to my cd player, turn table, etc.Thanks again and Happy Holidays!
Dan
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors:
Top of Page ]
[ Contact Us ]
[ Support/Wish List ]
[ Copyright © 2025, Audio Asylum, all rights reserved ]
