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In Reply to: Re: Getting ready to start JR's 89259/1506a Twisted IC's but a question on the outer braid posted by Jon Risch on December 13, 2006 at 20:32:33:
Jon,
Do you think the bullet plugs are large enough to put the outer braid in the barrel?Thanks,
Dan
Follow Ups:
Yes, the plastic barrel, but this provides no shielding, since it is not metal. However, it does get the shield that much closer to he plug connections, and so, provides more overall shield for the twisted pair.
Jon Risch
Jon,
Would it make any difference if I used 1/8" heat shrink to cover the resister/89259 or outer braid/89259 wires to the ground lug? I would do this just to make sure it couldn't short the wires, or would it adversely affect the sound quality? As for the outer braid, I will get it as close to the connector as possible without shorting out the wires together, to ensure I have the maximum shielding possible.Thanks again,
Dan
Both of these wire asemblies will be close to the signal carrying wires (remember, the ground wire of the signal pair DOES cary the signal, and will also be affected by any nearby dielectric).Use polyolefin HS to minimize any ill effects, rather than run-of-the-mill PVC HS.
Jon Risch
Jon,
Okay. I have some quality Polyolefin heat shrink. What are your thoughts on cable break in? Do you think cable cookers work great, or is it just better to let the cables break in naturally? I'll let you know when I am finished (making 89259/1506a Twisted IC's, 1695a digital IC, 89259 Subwoofer IC's and CC89259 speaker cables)!Thanks again for all of your help,
Dan
Cables do seem to need some break-in, and it seems trobe related to several diferent factors. Among them, how well the solder joints are done seems to be a large factor, as wel as the materials used.Teflon, silver and other exotic materials se to take longer than their more pedestrian counterparts, so the 89259 cables will probably take a moderate amount of time to break-in, but less than most silver cables seem to need.
RE cable cookers, my personal concern about using them is the possibility of inducing a DC offset to the cooker signal, and thus, temporaily biasing the cable dielectric to one polarity or the other, so my caution would dictate the use of an AC coupling capacitor to assure no DC offset was present on the cooking signal. This possibility of a DC offset is one of the few reasons that I would take seriously for being able to "over cook" a cable.
The other major concern is to taper the signal down slowly when terminating the cooking process, along the lines of a controlled demagnitizer situation, where the magnetic field is gradualy reduced, either via circuitry, or the increased spacing occuring with a manual demangnitizer wand. As far as I am aware, the cookers out there have no such ability to ramp up, or ramp down, the cooking signal, it is applied at full strength at the start, and suddenly removed at the end.
So a means of controlling the cooking signal via a level control would seem to be in order, and this might be posible by running the cooking signal through a preamp or small power amp (with level control) capable of handling the cooker's full signal swing undistorted.Of course, running normal signals through the cable 24/7 for a week or three will probably also provide a large measure of break-in, and is virtually free.
Jon Risch
Jon,
Thanks for your response. I will go with my original plan, which was to use the cables between my pre-amp and amp to break them in and then start switching those cables to the phono pre, cd player, etc. I figure they will break in faster if they are going between these components 24/7, like you said, compared to a few hours a day if I just kept them attached to my cd player, turn table, etc.Thanks again and Happy Holidays!
Dan
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