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In Reply to: RE: BEST-EVER-sounding music system this WE posted by acres verde on November 29, 2022 at 10:16:50
...the Viva Auroras were the best sounding...highly resolving and gorgeously musical.. But I'm changing speakers to those with 86dB sensitivity, so 30 Watts simply won't work.
Follow Ups:
30 W is 14.7 dB more than 86 dB SPL/1W/1m.
In a normal listening room (15-30 square meters, medium wall absorbption) this means than you can easily get more than 95 dB SPL.
The comfort zone for 90% of listeners is 70-75dB SPL average, 85 dB SPL peak.
Above 80 dB SPL hearing is temporarily impaired.
You may desire more than 15 W just to boost bass in case your speaker cuts 6-10 dB below 80 Hz (which is a common problem).
After many years of listening I use a bass-high loudness circuit of my design or an equalizer to compensate for the ambient bass-high loss and I do not need more than 10-15 W.
I use both OTL and standard PP.
Omnes feriunt, ultima necat.
The amount of sound pressure capacity you need is a subject of differing opinions and significant debate. Most music is severely compressed so there is not a lot of need for headroom to reproduce the dynamics, although most would tend to play that music louder to make up for the poorer dynamics.
But really well recorded music can have 20 db or more of dynamic peaks which could be truncated if the amp is not capable of reproducing such peaks. If you want to reproduce the sound pressure in a symphony concert hall, you probably would want to be able to play at about 95 db for the crescendos plus additional headroom for dynamics. If you want to have the capability to reproduce a rock concert, then you probably would want to play even louder - over 100 db. This is why some design for 105, 110 or 115 db output (and some even more) to play music at actual event levels and to cover the dynamic peaks in the music. Of course, this may not be good for your hearing....
Retsel
86 db into 8 or 4 ohms? So whatcha gettin'?
See link.
What is it about these that makes them so difficult to drive? I see the mfg. recommends 400 watts! My little Avalons have roughly the same specs (87dB, 5Ω nominal) and I get plenty of volume with my 20 watt Linear Tube Audio ZOTL Ultralinear + integrated (I know, I know, not a real OTL, but that's what they call it) and even on my 8 watt Wavelength 300B amp. I don't listen above 90 dB peaks (and that's LOUD to me, even on Mahler) so I'm using not much more than 2 watts of my amps power. My speakers don't go nearly as low, so perhaps that's what those 400 watts are for. Or, I guess if you have a cavernous room and listen at live concert volumes. I can't do that even when the wife and daughters are out of the house.
Enjoy your new setup, I'm sure it will sound magnificent!
This is because the microphone, place at one meter, simply does not pick up all the information leaving the speaker diaphragm.
It bounces around in the room though. Speakers like this need to have room from the wall behind them and the side so early reflections don't get interpreted has harshness.
In general once you are back a bit from the driver, they act as if they are about 5-6dB more efficient.
The concern I would have with them is that of any 'full range' driver, which is to say that they are never full range and Doppler Effect is well known to increase their distortion.
They'll be about 5' (1.65m.) away from the front and side walls, and I have delicious-sounding MA-1s (v.3.1) ready for them...and a pair of PS Audio M1200s for summer use.
...on where they are other than 'in Phoenix', which is a VERY large place.. Still waiting for the shipping Co. to return my call.
...likes more dynamic punch than I do.
...power required, etc., is encouraging.. I definitely will try the 30-Watt Auroras with the TLS-2s.
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