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I currently have a solid state set, and am considering moving into tube equipment. Given the cost, I will have to take a phased approach. Is it best to go with tube preamp, SS amp; SS preamp, tube amp; or SS preamp and amp, with tube CD player?Thanks,
Rob
Follow Ups:
....If you get a tube preamp--used or new---then all
of your sources, including the cd player will
be routed thru TUBES, and your sound
will be "tubified"...try getting a used
1990's Cary SLP-70 tube preamp,as it has minimum
controls and even has a power-supply box
for each channel. Overall, it's better to go
with a tube PREAMP feeding a S.S. power amp to get
the tube detail and bass "slam" of solid-state.----
For under $200, you simply cant beat the sound and the learning experience of building your own Foreplay. Tube curcuits are (generally) simpler than SS curcuits, and if you go the vintage route (Dyna 70 etc)you will likely have to perform some maintainance - so again, its to your advantage to get familiar with the guts of your gear and a soldering iron.The above mentioned Foreplay comes with very clear instructions aimed at non-electrical engineers. All you need do is follow the step by step instructions. The results will likely startle you.
As for possible matching problems with your present SS amp, there are work arounds that are often brought up at the Bottlehead forum. (Hair trigger volume control the usual mismatch)
As for the Bottlehead forum, all I can say is that it is a phenomenal resource of great ideas from great people.
Check out the forum. Lurk there for a few days and then take the plunge. You wont look back.JoeW
If your speakers are efficient I recommend getting the ASL AV8 tube amps. Very inexpensive at $200 a pair, and a really good intro to tubes, they are small, simple to use, and sound fantastic.If you have inefficient speakers (the AV8's are only 8 watts)another cheap option is a Dynaco ST-70 tube amp (this was my intro to tubes, never looked at SS again!) for $250
The Foreplay tubed pre is also under $200 with upgrades, but DIY (though they come up for sale occaisionally)
dg
I have Sonus Faber Concertinos. These are 88dB efficiency, a bit low. The other pair I have (in storage) is a/d/s L1290's.What's the power rating for a Dynaco?
Regards,
Rob
The path that is see recommended the most is to start with a great tube pre-amp first, followed by the Tube amp, and then the Tube CD player (if at all).
I think that basically everyone will recommend you to start with the pre and upgrade the power amp later. I don't think it's quite that easy though. It depends on what amps you're currently using. The way I see it you should try to figure out what the weak link in your system is (pre or power amp, leave the CD player out of the equation) and replace that. I'm running a ss pre (CJ PF-R) into tube power amps (Audio Innovations 1000mkIII) and couldn't be happier (well, to be perfectly honest I suppose I could...).Your best bet is of course to arrange for a home audition of pre as well as power amps and see which combination you prefer.
Oh, and if you do decide on a tube pre don't forget that there might be an impedance missmatch problem if your ss power has lower than normal input impedance.
-Jonas-
Hi Cut-throat;
I read the previous two responses and Jonas shouldn't have said "Everybody will basically agree..." because I think that the biggest inital improvement would be to start with the amp(s). Of course it all depends on the quality of equipment that you are using. If you are using a crappy, gritty-sounding preamp like a Dynaco PAT-4 and Mark Levenson model 20 amps,(unlikely) of course the preamp should be replaced first. But if you got a Radio Crap amp that you paid $69.95 for and a McIntosh C-34 preamp,(also unlikely) then you should start with the amp. I started switching over to tubes this way: I had a Musical Concepts modified Hafler DH-101 preamp and a pair of Quad 303 SS amps to drive my upper midrange and tweeters. I replaced the Quads with a pair of McIntosh MC-225's. GOD what an improvement! I am in the process of swapping out my Musical Concepts modified Hafler DH-220 for a pair of McIntosh MC-60's for the lower midrange. I am still using my Musical Concepts modified Hafler DH-500 for the woofers because I can't afford the tube amps that I really want which is a pair of McIntosh MC-3500's. (about $10,000 or more used) Lately, I have been using the best preamp in the world. It's better than any tube or solid state preamp ever made. It's called NO PREAMP. I run the output of my CD player directly into the input of my electronic crossover. The system only plays at one volume (Loud!) but Jeezus! Does it sound fantastic.
Gotta get me a stepped attenuator. I know that most Asylum members like Jonas will say "This guy is really weird!" but they haven't heard my system.(of course I probably am really weird!) Go to "Inmates Systems on the top page and cursor down to "Unclewatts - unclewatts system" and you can see what I'm running. Hey, I'm too old to care about what everybody thinks. This thing sounds like a fat electrostat(which doesn't exist) with enough balls(punch)to tear your head off. I know I'm probably either gonna get ignored or really blasted by all the other inmates for what I have said but I have just one question for you: ARE YOU REALLY HAPPY WITH YOUR SYSTEM? I am. BTW Cut-throat, however you do it do make that switch to tubes, because you will enjoy the music much more. I promise. -Unclewatts
P.S. No, I am not using drugs. I'm just high on music!
Interesting post.I have a Hafler DH-200, stock. Drives a pair of Sonus Faber Concertinos. For a preamp, I used an unimpressive Mitsubishi receiver, and have just purchased a Marantz SS pre-amp (similar to 3600).
The Hafler is in storage for a while, so I may be tempted to purchase a power tube amp to mate with the Sonus Faber's and Marantz.
Thanks,
Rob
I think you misread the above thread. I was not the one asking for advice. I have had tubes for quite awhile. And Yes I am very happy with my system.
I have two complete systems that are full of tubes. I would not go back to Solid State.
Unclewatts is of course absolutely correct. I shouldn't say that everybody agrees on anything. What I meant was that most recommendations I've seen tell you to change to pre first (even though I myself, just as Unclewatts went the other way).Oh, and Unclewatt - I wish I could have a system that I could play LOUD all the time. Unfortunately my neighbours wouldn't take too kindly to that... I did try a passive pre (Creek OH-10) for a while but in the end I prefered my CJ. The Creek unit robbed the system of some of its drive and dynamics (the main attraction of the Creek is its price...).
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