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In Reply to: Can tube sockets be too tight? posted by desert dweller on August 16, 2006 at 09:35:10:
I have a PV-12A (I bought it as a PV-12 and then had it upgraded to an "A" by CJ), and I recently disassembled the chassis to get to the hole in the bottom of the circuit board that allows access to a hole in the Alps volume pot. The pot was noisey so I decided I'd try to spray some Caig De-Oxit into it to see if that would clear up the noise. It did. Woo hoo!BUT, it was VERY easy to get the bottom cover off. It took all of about 5 minutes. Really. Access to components and traces both above the board, and certainly below, is excellent. I took some pictures. I can send them to you if you want so you can see how easy it is to get the bottom cover off. Now removing the board altogether would be some work. This doesn't look difficult, but it would take much more time.
You had Bill Thalmann upgrade your PV-8 to a PV-12? Is he the tech doing the work now? I had Bill update/modify a pair of MV-75s. I couldn't be more pleased with the sonic results and with his service. Great guy, me thinks.
Tube sockets too tight? Well, after the endless linestage tube rolling I've been doing, these two sockets in my PV-12A aren't all too tight any more ;) Despite all the tubes in and out of these sockets I haven't done anything worse than open up the socket contact tolerance a bit. I certainly haven't broken any nearby components by removing and installing tubes.
But tube pins should be tightly gripped by socket contacts. I'm sure there're specs for all of this, and I'm sure there is some variation. Certainly tube pin gauge can vary. A fresh socket should grab on to tube pins securely. With these types of tubes and sockets, a careful, gentle rocking of the tube while either removing it or installing it into a socket should be all that's necessary to safely get tubes and sockets engaged or parted. Applying something like like Caig De-Oxit to tube pins can provide some lubrication to reduce the trauma at least a bit.
Cheers,
- SJ
Follow Ups:
SJ, I would love to see your pictures. I'll send you my email. My preamp started life as a PV8 before being modded so I guess the board/chassis design of your PV12 is different.I think Bill did the actual work on my preamp. You know, he's at Music Technology now, I don't know for how long. My understanding is that he designed many of CJ's early pieces and is THE man for repairs and upgrades. My experience with him was excellent but I thought I'd try a local guy this time since I'm in Tucson and he's all the way in Virginia.
I like your deoxit idea. I'm going to try it.
Desert Dweller,
I'm in Phoenix and it's worth it to send the C-J to Bill T. in Virgina. Like SJ, I've had Bill T. go thru a pair of MV75's and a PV-5, and they sound great. No complaints here. If you decide to sell it to buy a piece that will survive the "rocking the tube to get it out" method then look for one that has point to point wiring due to the fact that the sockets are (usually) fastened to the metal chassis and not a circut board. But as nice as the C-J stuff sounds,...
PV-8 to 12 update/upgrade. Yeah, I was thinking about this as I was writing my reply to you. Could be that the PV-8 is tougher to take apart.Yeah, I've seen nothing but praise for Bill. As I understand it, Music Tech is his company and he is still there.
Bill told me about this. CJ left an opening in the board for access to the access hole in the Alps pot. Sure enough on my PV-12 it was there and I inserted the hose (is that the right word?) from the Caig can and gave a spray into the pot. No noise now.
If you would still like me to send you pics of the PV-12 chassis partially dismantled, just email me though the Asylum to connect. I'd be happy to send them along to you.
Cheers,
- SJ
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