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In Reply to: Thanks for sharing that. Did you know... posted by Presto on April 7, 2007 at 12:39:00:
The saw of choice for pros, and least on the western side of the country (easterners seem to prefer the sidewinders).This model has remained unchanged for a long, long time (sorry, don't know exact time lines, but well over 50 yrs). This is the latest iteration, but the only real difference between this and much older models is the resin pistol grip, trigger, and top handle, which were previously all metal, like many tools of the period (drills, etc) and the grounded cord. The older, all metal, no-ground type was the kind Rob was using at the time, and it definitely was not double-insulated. The change to the resin parts was done at least 20 yrs. ago. The newest models are 2-wire/w ground, with the ground presumably attached to the magnesium body.
The good/bad with the worm drive skilsaws is that they will, almost literally, last forever. The gear box is oil filled, and I've never heard of a gear failure (new parts are available, though). The brushes are user-replaceable. Armatures eventually wear out, but those are easily rebuilt. The only part that tends to need replacement is the 'foot' (base) that tends to get bent when it's dropped.
The 'bad' aspect of this equation is that there are still lots of the all-metal ones around, and who wants to give up a tool that his granddad gave to him, and still works great?. However, these can be used safely by (a) always plugging into a gfic receptacle (b)attach a 2 wire/w grnd. cord with a solid connection to the metal body (c)wrap handles with tape.
As far as safety on a job site, well, I'll just say that you would not believe some of the shit I've seen. Just skilsaw-wise, some carpenters wire the blade guard up (makes it easier to start a cut)-while many (most?) wood shake and shingle roofers remove the guard completely! It doesn't take much imagination to think about what that spinning blade would do if you accidentally hit the front of your leg as you drop the saw to your side.
The link shows current prices for skilsaws. The black-handled worm drives are the same as the red-handled, just heavier (and cheaper).
- http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw/102-2292484-5623340?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=skilsaw&Go.x=11&Go.y=8&Go=Go (Open in New Window)
Follow Ups:
I have not had to wield a saw all day every day but you are absolutely correct about the east vs. west difference regarding the preference of worm drives and sidewinders!My 5150 consumer grade sidewinder is at least 20 years old, well used in a DIY/handyman sort of way (including cutting concrete and cast pipe with abrasive blades).
the company is now owned by Bosch. They'd be idiots to do anything to undermine the reputation for durability that this saw has.The sidewinders have certain advantages (lighter, startup torque doesn't twist the saw), but also disadvantages (the 'line of sight' on the 77 is on the left which is perfect for right-handers, the linear motor makes it easier to cut straight lines(at least for me (-:), and the gearing gives it a bit more torque). In the end, you pick your poison, get out on the deck, and start cutting up some damn studs!
...that even the best made tools are not immune from electrical failure.Perhaps moving to a moulded handle was for electrical isolation reasons...
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