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In Reply to: Making a 3.5 to RCA, cable; when to split? posted by P. Hanley on July 21, 2006 at 11:45:06:
I don't quite understand your description, but in simple terms:If you mean a stereo 3.5mm mini-plug to rca plug "Y cable"...
To build this kind of "Y type" interconnect cable: Terminate two individual interconnect cables, each with an rca plug at one end, and terminate both cables to a single stereo 3.5mm mini-plug (with each cable's ground terminated to the stereo 3.5mm mini-plug's common ground terminal).
Follow Ups:
Thanks Duster! Though I know how to make the cable, I was trying to determine the best theoretical method of laying out the segments for sound quality. I think I'll stick with leaving the single line the longest and break to the Y at the closest point to the preamp. Thanks!
Sorry, I must not understand your design goal. If you would explain what you mean by the single line being the longest, I would appreciate a clarification so I can better understand what you mean (I would greatly appreciate it). Thanks in advance :-)
My apologies for the convoluted explanation. THe single feed which gets split into the two RCAs is the "single" line I am referring to, of which I assumed should be the majority of the cable, not the split portion. I'm splitting hairs here though (no pun intended) because the only difference is really just one additional ground wire, and the possible crosstalk that may be caused by running left and right channels together the whole length of the cable.I figured what the heck, ask anyway, even though it's only a few months or so before I implement a different solution.
Now I understand. It's best not to use a multi-channel cable for a stereo audio signal, since as you mentioned, crosstalk is not a good thing (and I concur).
Do you even read anything other than your own posts here?I already answered the question 25 minutes ago and he responded 5 minutes before you posted the above.
It was also great you reposted the same AWG calculator I had posted earlier on a previous thread.
But hey, you're the DUSTER man!
Tschüß!
HowdyI know it irks me when someone else posts what I consider to be the same as one of my posts, but often when I read them more carefully I see that they are being more specific, or perhaps they saw an ambiguity, etc. that I didn't.
Sometimes I just have to roll with the punches. (Check out the responses to http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/cables/messages/122016.html for example.)
There's a reason this place is called the Asylum. :)
-Ted
"Do you even read anything other than your own posts here?"That comment is so unfair.
"I already answered the question 25 minutes ago and he responded 5 minutes before you posted the above."
Folks have a right to toss in their 2 cents. I was trying to be of help since I was unsure (and I'm still unsure) of the poster's intent.
"It was also great you reposted the same AWG calculator I had posted earlier on a previous thread."
The reason why the link was reposted had to do with a valid point of issue, and it was acknowledged as a repost as found within the thread.
"But hey, you're the DUSTER man!"
If you have a poor opinion of me keep it to yourself, since I have kept away from attacking you, garth.
I too am a bit confused on what the intent is.From what I can gather, the question is whether to have 4 wires (2 twisted pairs joined at the 3.5mm plug), or split the grounds closer to the pre-amp.
SO there are 5 wires, 3 conected at the 3.5 mm plug, and 2 that split off the ground close to the pre-amp.
I built a very long length 3.5mm stereo mini-plug to stereo rca plugs "Y cable" interconnect cable to serve my bedroom's Tivoli Audio Model One table radio's stereo audio output jacks (it features both line-level and headphone-level output jacks). The cable seems to be similar to what P.Hanley is interested in making? If so, maybe my particular project is lower budget than his wants/needs, though (better cable and connectors to be had).I opted to use an inexpensive 35 foot run of Mogami siamese (dual channel cable intended for S-Video) 75 Ohm coaxial cable (with good capacitance specs for such a long run's needs) terminated at the source end with a Canare 3.5mm stereo mini-plug (it features a rather large barrel and very roomy solder platforms that can easily fit two audio cables within it) and a stereo pair of rca connectors (good quality but nothing special) at the load end.
The stereo "Y cable" connects the radio's stereo (yes, the Tivoli table radio's audio output jack's signal is actually true stereo!) headphone-level output jack to my bedroom system's preamplifier across the room (the very small OD cable is very low-profile when run along the wall's baseboard) which allows arm's length control of it's power-on/off, station selection, volume level, and sounds pretty decent for such a cheap DIY cable project ;-) Maybe someday I'll spring for better cable and better rca's (the Canare 3.5mm stereo mini-plug is a keeper, though).
You got it. I think my inquiry came across far more complex than it is. Anyway, I am using canare F10 RCAs and a Neutrik 3.5mm, so it's nothing fancy. THe cable is Belden 89182. However, I am considering simple twisted pair CAT V or a variant, but because of the length of the run (15-16ft) I'm afraid capacitance will catch up with me. Conversely, I am also concerned that the 89182 is a 150ohm cable and may cause other issues. Grr....I know where I'm headed at this point though, so we'll see. Thanks everyone.
Paul
and part it at the RCA end. You'll have to graft a piece of extra shield material to the single of the twisted pair that doesn't get the shiled after you part them.,The shield serves as a common ground - there is only one ground on the 3.5mm anyway.
Belden 89182 is a shielded twisted pair cable so you would need to use two runs of it (stereo pair) for your needs. The connectors you have should be fine depending on the two runs of Belden 89182's combined OD as-terminated to a single Neutrik 3.5mm mini-plug (smaller barrel than the Canare I mentioned), while I agree that I would not feel comfortable using a 150 Ohm cable for line-level audio interconnects. The very inexpensive 75 Ohm Mogami cable I mentioned has a very small OD and should fit easily into the Neutrik 3.5mm mini-plug, and also won't have notable capacitance nor crosstalk issues as mentioned per Cat5...see link:
Actually, I was using the two conductors for the right and left signals, and the drain wire for ground. However, I hadn't thought about the Canare F12 connector. I just cancelled my order for the Neutriks and got a few F12s, thanks!
With that design the left and right channel's signal wires would be twisted together and a major crosstalk issue will be a result (the soundstage will collapse, big time), and the cable when wired that way would not involve a noise cancellation geometry. The drain wire you intend to use as a common return runs parallel to the twisted signal wires and the twisted signal wires would not provide noise cancellation as a twist is designed to do. A single channel's signal and return wires need to be twisted together in order to provide noise cancellation. You would be much better off using a proper stereo pair of cables joined at the 3.5mm stereo mini-plug.
I also have some West Penn 25815 to use if the grounds must remain separate all the way back to the 3.5mm. I just couldn't understand why that would be necessary.
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