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In Reply to: MIT Speaker cables- where's the beef?? posted by CraigE on March 14, 2006 at 11:49:40:
I have had some MIT cables with a cvt coupler at one hand and the big brick on the other. One day, before throwing them away, I decided to open the box. I found a few caps poorly soldered/glued to what seemed cheap copper wire.. craftmanship looked like it was done by a bunch of untrained kindergarten. and these were supposaed to retail for a lot of money!
Follow Ups:
Hi,I currenty use MIT T2's which I find a bit bright. Based on posts here I have just bought 12/14 and 22 ga. magnet wire to experiment.
What gauge magnet wires do you recommend for HF / LF in a biwire configuration and should I twist these together or not?
I am far from being an expert, but here's what I would do:
1. If I bi-wire, I get the sme gauge for lows and highs.
2. I would twist the + and - to reduce inductance and shield, just like the mapleshade helix. I would separate lows and highs.
3. I would pick 18 or 22 gauge for a length not to exceed 8-12 feet because one it's plenty for the voltage we are talking about, and two because of the so-called skin effect.Note that bigger wire does not mean bigger bass. In my experience, it's been the opposite.
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I used 22 ga. Magnet wire lightly twisted for both HF and LF. Banana plugs at amp end and hard wired (silver sodler) at speaker end.Although the overall brightness did decrease a bit so did the detail and clarity. The sound was congested & muddled with no seperation in the instruments. No improvement in the Bass either.
Therefore back to the MIT's for the time being.
Will experiment with 14 ga and 12 ga over the weekend and post my results.
Equipment: Elite CD/DVD/SACD, Pass Labs X1 Preamp, Acoustic Reality EAR-1001 Monoblocks, Maggie 1.6 spkrs (upgraded Caps). Harmonic Tech AC-11 Power Cables, Heartland RCA between Elite & Pass. Gryphon Guideline Ref. XLR's between Pass and Monoblocks.
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