 
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
|
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
67.175.255.42
My speakers (Dunlavy SCIVa) have biwiring terminals. When I bought them, the dealer advised doing a single run of good cable, used with the copper jumper plates. This question may be so overdone and simplistic, but does anyone have an opinion on the benefits of the dealer's suggestion vs. biwiring with identical cable runs from the power amp?
Follow Ups:
Single wire to the tweeter posts, then jump to the woofers. Get rid of the brass plates, use Cardas copper jumpers. I found copper spk wire worked the best. Owned 4As close to 6 yrs, had plenty of time to figure things out...Good luck.
Even though Tannoy has bi-wire posts on my Rev3's, they recommend in the manual single wiring to the tweeter posts then jumping to the woofers. Vampire wire also recommends wiring this way.
"If it ain't music, it might as well be a barkin' dog"
I'm curious why they suggest going to the high then jumpering to low and not vice versa. I have no scientific thought on either option, but definitely curious!
Stuart Marcus from Vampire Wire (Sound Connections) once explained it to me. I don't remember the details but tried it and liked what I heard. You might call him.
"If it ain't music, it might as well be a barkin' dog"
Tippy,A great little article on the subject resides at
http://www.sonicdesign.se/biwire.html
Thanks. Valuable information.
This article is not without it's problems.
See:
http://www.AudioAsylum.com/audio/cables/messages/47680.htmlAs noted in the above post about the Sonic Design web page, the circuit used to simulate the cables has several significant errors, errors which render some of the points totally moot, and others incorrect altogether.
For my take on bi-wiring, see:
http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/biwiring.htm
AND
http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/biwiring2.htm
http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/biwiring3.htm
Jon Risch
Jon would there be anything wrong with stripping off enough bare wire and run it through both terminals that are set up for biwiring instead of using a jumper? This way it would be the exact cable you are using. The only fall back that I can think of would be oxidation over time. Any thoughts? TIA.
I am not happy with bare wire connections at the speaker level.It is very difficult to get a good low resitance connection with bare wires, even solid swire, much less stranded wire.
No matter how hard you tighten the 5-way binding post, the pressure is just not there, as the wire has a round profile, and the 5-way nut a flat one, thus, there is in theory, just a point contact (actually, just a line). Even with some squishing of the wire, which deforms it and fractures the metal crystalline structure, the connection can loosen with time and vibration (it is hooked up to a speaker cabinet after all).
I much prefer spade lugs, and for the ultimate, the kind with compresion washers built-in, so they maintain contact pressure over time and vibration.
You can tighten down a spade lug till the point where you might fear for the physical integrity of the 5-way post/nut, and I try to take the pressure up to just below that point, using a wrench to do so. Another way would be to use the maximum finger pressure, and then use a wrench to go just one iota more. This results in a good physical connection that will not readily oxidize or come loose with time and vibration.
One way to see if your wires are tight enough, is to firmly try to pivot them sideways in the 5-way post by pushing and tugging on them, if they move at all, it's not tight enough. A great many speaker cable connections wil NOT pass this test!
In the case of bi-wiring, use of spades and stacking two on one of the terminal pairs of the loudspeaker will not compromise the connection, as long as it is made tight as described above. Then you merely have to choose between which set of terminals you run the speaker cable to, and which set gets the jumper. It is usually a good idea to try both, but many folks find that running the speaker cable to the LF set, and the jumper from there to the HF set is the best method.
If you are not inclined to bi-wire, and your crossover can be readily removed from the cabinet by removing screws from the rear, then the best option would be to solder a solid jumper wire of about 18-20 ga. directly between the two sets of bi-wire posts on the inside, where the posts stick out from the input cup. If it is desired to try bi-wiring later, then merely remove the cup and cut the links (or try cutting the hot link first, leaving the ground link in place for the first trial, see:
http://www.AudioAsylum.com/audio/cables/messages/13441.html) then later, try cutting the ground link, and listening again. If it sounded better with the ground link, replace the link, or re-connect externally.Hope this helps.
Jon Risch
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors:
Top of Page ]
[ Contact Us ]
[ Support/Wish List ]
[ Copyright © 2025, Audio Asylum, all rights reserved ]