 
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
|
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
98.84.125.213
I have no clue about electrical talk so this is maybe a badly phrased question. I'm looking to move up from the very first Shunyata (4 outlet) and a Monster HTS 3500 conditioner (I think it's a conditioner. Dont know what the Shunyata is).
What do I want and why???
Follow Ups:
Hey Jack,
What you want is to find an old Bybee/Curl pro on audiogon. Here is why:
-it is a world above what you are using right now. You will get a very warm and musical midrange that really brings to light why we power condition.
-You will be getting two power conditioners in one, since the BC pro has two sides, each identical and isolated from each other. This allows you, for about $800 on the used market, to experiment with separating your digital from your analog, power amps from source components, etc. All valuable experiments that will allow you to answer for yourself what matters in power conditioning and what doesn't. That's $400 per (premium) power conditioner, both of them in a nice compact space. There is no better value in high end power conditioning.
-The con is that the unit sacrifices a bit (and I mean this is slight) of detail. You won't miss this because you will love the magic you are getting in the mids.
-Ultimately we feel the best power conditioners on the market right now are the current version Bybeewire 2.0 and the Weizhi precision 6 outlet unit. However these start at $3K.
-The best possible course in power conditioning, in my opinion, is to start with an old Bybee/Curl Pro, and use that to learn what power conditioners can do. Then if you want to go further and spend more money you will at least know what you are doing and have a high quality standard of comparison. I have had monsters and Furmans and, again in my opinion, they were awful. Note that I don't recommend everything Bybee does, but his conditioners are and were excellent. Again it is not perfect, but in my opinion there is no better value in terms of units at this performance level.
Good luck,
Paul
I remember reviewing Jack's TAD conditioner a hundred years ago on SoundStage! . Sometimes I wish I'd kept that unit around. But I got very curious about the PSAudio P300 afterwards, and let it go.
These days the music sounds sweet sans any conditioning. But that Bybee unit did up the gear I had at the time up a notch.
See ya. Dave
Edits: 04/12/11
Yo JT,
And the TAD unit is several generations behind the one I was recommending. The Bybee/Curl Pro model should not be confused with the TAD "bybee sucker" units.
I know you weren't suggesting that they were the same, just thought I'd point that out for any people not familiar with the difference.
ccm
The Shunyata PLCs are basically a high quality filter. The materials used, affect the sound, in addition to the filtering. Note: Filtering attenuates higher frequencies on the AC line, they do not eliminate the higher frequencies. The goal is to suppress as much electrical noise on the line, without restricting current flow.
If you can afford it, get a Synergistic Powercell or a Bybee Power. To get better than that, you would have to use one, or both of them with a large step-down transformer, from Equi-tech, Richard Grey, or the like.
A dedicated line, with a parallel noise absorber at the breaker box will also help.
Tarq
Be aware that the HTS series of line conditioner use the same capacitor/ choke filtering modes. The larger PLC's add additional tiers of filtering (stage three means three tiers of filtering: stage two, one layer, etc)
On the larger HTS series half of the circuit is to run the meters and lights, and relays for sequential turn on. If you don't nee those frills buy the HTS 1000 and buy two or three of them ( they better the performance of the old Power Wedges, BTW, so they aren't too bad).
Keep the Shunyata for your power amps, plug your 3500 into the Shunyata and then use it to segregate your digital from your analog front end components.
If you're handy with a soldering iron, the 3500 has a lot of space in the chassis. Change out a few of the duplex outlets (the ones you use) and you can add a Corcom like module ( the EV/ER series is very good for the digital/video components between the board and the duplex.
Stu
Thank you. Very helpful, guys.
Isolation transformer: uses transformer to isolate A/C from wall. Helps.
Can be a 1:1 normal (120V hot/0volt neutral) with no other filtering, or a split to 'technical power: which is a 60V/60V with both legs carrying a 60V to add together to make 120V. (illegal for lighting, or in the wall without special warnings etc, certainly illegal inside residential walls) 60v/60v is good for ANY electronics and any stereo gear.
(I use only technical power 60V/60V for all my gear)
The advantages of 60v/60v are beyond my making a reasonable and valid technical attempt to explain, other than it is good.
A good quality isolation transformer that hangs on wall at Goertz online store with prices from $285 to $433. Recommended if you just want an isolation transformer with 60v/60v technical power.
Other kinds and brands of isolation transformers are available. Mostly from hospital and industrial sources... which makes them a kind of unknown, other than some folks say they use them.Then for powerline conditioners.
Two real sort of different types.
The first is like your Monster, only better. Various Monster, Furman, types around. I own several of these: A Monster 5000, a Monster 7000SS, a Furman REF20i.
These have various bits to clean and refine the power. For these bigger IS usually better. And the top of the line Monster. and Furman are pretty good. Both create 60v/60v balanced power. (the Monster has a switch to use 60/60 or 120/0 at the flip of a switch)
The other type is a "regenerator" like the now somewhat famous PS Audio Premier Power Plant, which is basically an amplifier making a 60hz output. They use a lot more power to recreate the A/C from scratch so to speak. And that is the one drawback: they use about twice the power they make. And so cost a lot to use for all the equipment. For specialized items, they are great if costly to use in that fashion. I own two PS Audio regenerators used for spcial tasks only, so they use little power as they are not used for amps or big current hungry items. (I own a Ps Audio PPP and use it for a few small wattage devices in the 'tube power output setting', and I also just bought used a giant PS Audio P600 regenerator, which i plane to set to 90hz ouput instead of the normal 60hz, and use it for my preamps and one ot two sources only (the PS Audio P600,1000,2000 were unique in that they could alter the output frequency. super cool in my book. even though they weigh a TON and are HUGE devices.)
Within the above are some which can adjust the voltage output to a specific voltage. The PS Audio PPP is set to 120v ditto Furman, and Monster. The PS Audio P600 can be adjusted to a variety of output voltages in 1V increments.
Another type of device is the Monster AVS2000 voltage regulator. It does nothing but keep the output at 120 volts using a GIANT reostat and weighs a ton. (I own one, but not for any reason. Buy ONLY if you have a lot of BIG voltage fluctuations. Normal fructuations are from 114v to 125v in a day. If you get down to 110v and up to 130v get a voltage regulator or a powerline device that includes one built in.Then the third sort are the high end conditioners, Richard Gray, etc which use different sorts of way to filter, and usually cost a LOT more.
Some even have big Teflon caps $$$$
I have NO experience with these, and would need to defer to others with experience in this area. They range in price from a few thousand to many thousands. But are highly recommended by folks I trust. I would not buy them as they are not a real bang for the buck. But ARE high end for the well heeled.Then whole house ones, which are REALLY expensive, and permanent. I would NOT recommend these as they are built in, cannot be changed if they do not please. So you would be taking a BIG leap of faith to install one if these. They cost $5,000 to $15,000. And I would NOT recommend them ONLY because ofthe high initial cost AND no changing your mind if they do not do what you want.
Edits: 04/05/11 04/05/11 04/05/11
My panamax has a 400va Iso transformer which I use for all lower power / digital.
This was about 1k$ many years ago.
Best single thing I ever did for my stereo, until adding a line for just the amp.
Most amps DO NOT like power conditioners.
For whole house? Get lightning suppression. Not all that expensive and doesn't wear out like the type that comes in virtually all stand alone conditioners. A must if you live where lightning storms are common. Florida and the like, come to mind.
Too much is never enough
The latest, greatest thing is apparently the Silver Circle $5,000 unit. I think I'll try the $400. balanced power unit.
I have a lot of conditioners. I guess i just trust them more than expensive cables to inprove my system.
Post a Followup:
| FAQ |
Post a Message! |
Forgot Password? |
|
||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors:
Top of Page ]
[ Contact Us ]
[ Support/Wish List ]
[ Copyright © 2025, Audio Asylum, all rights reserved ]
