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where I live I cannot get gold or silver plated 10 AWG connectors; I can only get tinned copper connectors. Hence I'm wondering if I'm better off by:
a) removing the tin, leaving the copper exposed around the contact areas, treating with Caig DeOxit and then ProGold, and then crimp.
b) leave the tin, polish it with steel wool, then DeOxit, ProGold, then crimp.
In case somebody is wondering what the application will be, I'm in the process of building a speaker cable R-C filter per CDC's recipe.
Thank you!
Follow Ups:
Connectors meant for crimping will not make secure solder joints. Although it is probably not important for your application, it is generally a bad idea to solder connectors made to be crimped. Solder is soft and metallurgically unstable over long periods of time. Crimping and soldering compromises the strength of the crimped metal and would not be acceptable in an aerospace application, although again this is probably not an important consideration for your project.
Why do you need 10-gauge connectors? The RC filters should function up to 100 MHz or higher, and 10-gauge wire is not good for this application. The kind of wire found in plenum-rated CAT-5 or CAT-6 communication cable works fine.
Al,
I'm using 10 AWG to connect the TI shield to ground, per CDC's instructions.
Horacio
However, I would solder the wire to the TI-Shield. You need a beefy iron and some liquid solder flux. Drill a hole, clean the copper thoroughly, and make sure the wire is soldered to the copper layers on both sides of the TI-Shield. Clean all the flux residue and tarnish off the copper after you make the solder joint.
from my experience Tin plate is almost neutral when it comes to sonic effect. If you remove it, you then must deal with oxidation, but gain a bit more conductivity. I would definately clean the end where the wire is attached and use solder not crimp.
OK. Leave the tin (polish it to make it as thin as posible) and solder.
Now, how do I properly solder a connector meant for crimping a 10 AWG? I guess I need to really heat the connector up (and the cable) in order to get a good solder in there, right?
Solder would be Cardas Quad Eutectic.
why don't you just crimp the connector and forget the solder? As far as I know a crimp joint is superior to a solder joint period.
moray james
In my opinion, unless you have the RIGHT CONNECTOR, the RIGHT WIRE, and the RIGHT CRIMPING TOOL for that combination, all bets are off. Usually, I crimp as best that I can, and then solder with SN62 solder. Works every time.
OK, then it seems crimping is the way to go. I have the right stranded wire and the right connector meant for crimping, and the right crimping tool...so crimping it is.
So back to the original question, I guess I don't need to remove the tin. Just polishing it with steel wool, DeOxit, ProGold, then crimp should be it.
Thanks all for the feedback!
Horacio
n
Unless you are Enid Lumley, and are willing to re-clean it with silver polish once a week, keep the tin.
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