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Ok, after all the chatter over the last couple of years about fuses, Before purchasing I decided to treat the stock ends on the main line fuse of my amp.I just recently upgraded the powercord for it. The amp was already on its on dedicated line with a Ps audio Soloist premier. Now as far as I was concerned this was as good as it was gonna get! that's it! I'll change out the preamp or get a new dac next. The transformation was uncannly 3d and mids that smack you in the face from realism and dead quite! Long post short, I'm sold I'll be ordering the new supreme from Hifi tunning tommorow, mabe its a long shot considering the cost and it might mess up the good sound but for under a 100.00 bucks for an up grade I'm in . I'll post back with some results P.S has anyone got one yet? and what do ya think about it?
Follow Ups:
... if you have a Dremel tool, get a felt polishing cone bit and use some Flitz to polish the ends of the fuse literally to a mirror-like shine--it takes about 30 seconds. You might not need the fancy fuses after that. I did this to all of my Critical Link fuses (now sadly discontinued by PS Audio), then applied Caig Deoxit and ProGold. I was gobsmacked!You can use the Dremel and the polishing cone on any other bare-metal connectors in your set-up (power plugs etc). It's is one of the most effective tweaks I've tried (and I've tried a good few).
Even if you don't own a dremel, you can get a basic model for under $40. That's a bargain price for a hi-fi tweak!
DE
Edits: 01/13/11 01/14/11 01/14/11 01/17/11
If the fuse has a nickel cladding over the brass layer, as most ordinary fuses do, sand or Dremel the nickel cladding off entirely both ends of fuse.
Double-check for directionality when reinserting fuse.
Cheers
Deaf Ear and Geoff - you LITTLE TREASURES: I wore out my first Dremel polishing mains plugs and all manner of (slightly) rugged things. Bought a new one in Dec and didn't know what I was going to do with it. I do now !! I've cleaned all fuses and holders with lab grade methanol (NO residue) - even bypassed the fuse in my CDP (I've never blown anything up) - removed nickel or gold plating - but it hadn't occurred to me to polish fuses. Such a good idea. Came home enthused from a wedding mid eveing and mirror polished the amp line in fuse: nice (yea orientation was the same).
Course it might have been lower sunspot activity or no military satellite going over the top, I didn't have quarter mill scopes pluged in to verify it, I 'only' heard it, woooooooooops, I mean got the impression of.
"sand or Dremel the nickel cladding off entirely both ends of fuse."
That may be a good idea sonically but nickel is fairly toxic so I'd be really careful to avoid breathing the dust, getting it on my skin or letting it settle out in an inhabited area.
Do it outside, stand up wind, hold it away from you, wash your hands afterward. Being paranoid beats being poisoned...
Regards, Rick
Oh, piffle! No guts, no glory, don't be such a baby.
I'm actually quite manly: I use nothing but lead solder, ROHS be damned...
Rugged Rick
That sounds like a good one. The reason I liked the Critical Link fuses so much was that the caps and the fuse wire were made from solid, unplated OFC copper, then cryo'd. They were head-and-shoulders better-sounding than any other fuse I tried, and when polished they were buttock-clenching.
Yeah, I hear, ya. I like the pure silver fuses, myself. And the Acme silver cryo'd fuse holders are a must.Oh, nobody even mentioned Xtreme AV Quicksilver Gold contact enhancer. That will definitely make your sphincter pucker up.
Edits: 01/14/11
Thank you sir.
buggggger I didn't buy the Dremel kit with the flexi extension thinking I'd never use it - I might've been able to polish my amp pcb fuse holders if I had - unfortunately they look like crap to me.
Geoff I recall (via the archives), several yrs ago you acquired a v heavy slab of aluminium as a base - are you still using ?
It seemed a little counter intuitve that a ringy material worked v well for you (from memory).
A friend has his electronics on v thick finished granite (ringy) and says if he taps one side he doesn't hear much at all on the other side via a stethoscope - an argument in favour of mass I guess.
I am not still using the heaby slab of aluminum. A thick aluminum slab won't ring unless struck with sledge hammer. 3-4 inches minimum.
Silver fuses sounded a bit lean in my system. The copper lent such an effortless naturalness to the sound, that I lost the urge to experiment further. I've never heard of the ACME fuse holders, however; I must investigate! Do you have a link?
I haven't tried the Quicksilver Gold, either. I tried Walker's equivalent SST, but I didn't like it long-term. The sound dulled down quickly. I applied it to everything and enjoyed it well enough, but 3-weeks later dissatisfaction set in. I cleaned the SST off and was amazed to hear how much livelier everything was again. A 3-week cleaning cycle is too much for me (I know: lightweight). Is Quicksilver Gold better in your opinion?
Thanks
DE
Silver can sound a little thin but break in and cryo usually take care of that. I'd opine copper can be better in some cases, it happened to me. But with those caveates, silver will be more revealing and open.
Quicksilver Gold is the best.
Acme Audio Labs at:
Edits: 01/14/11 01/14/11
Geoff: apparently you've tried Acme's silver fuses ?
I have Acme Silver wall outlets and Acme Silver fuse holder. I use Isoclean fuses. I don't recall trying Acme fuses.
Thanks v much for your replies Geoff.
Looking further I saw Metrella used Acme silver/ceramic fuses, the confedence to try them helped by having shared a few beers with the supplier Mike Brinkman, at CES. (Thumbs up from him). A point of interest I noted is Isoclean are slow blow only, stating they sound better.
So which direction is the fuse supposed to be inserted in the Acme fuse holder ? is it away from the screw end or the opposite?
The only way 2 B sure is try both ways; the one that sounds better is the correct one.
What length of time for break in?
I always hear the fuse right away. Who knows how long they take to fully break in? Some may take longer than others. If you have a CD with a break in track that would certainly help.
{nt}
Hi all, I got the Hifi tunning silver star today for the main line fuse for the amp. Although the cleaning of the stock fuse yeilded some fantastic results they are bested by the Hifi's in all areas. The over all sound has less glare and is smooth and extended, the upper highs are benifiting from either less noise or just the benits of silver to be very transparent when done right. The bass is deeper and very tight.Sound just emerges into the room like a rushing wind, scary good stuff indeed.Anyone know How long should these break in?
use your worn out brushes.
For those of you who don't have a dremel.
Edits: 01/14/11 01/14/11
I've used the Flitz without the Dremel and found the same thing -- got me about half way to where the original HiFi Tuning fuses did. Also helps if you polish the fuse holders. Note that Flitz leaves a film and needs to be followed by an alcohol rinse and Caig treatment.
The dremel buffing works wonders, and the shine is quite extraordinary, but you're right Dave: the Caig still plays a good part in the treatment.
DE
Good advise Deafear, I decided to contain the excitement and order the Hifi silver star for the amp to start and go inside the other gear for now and treat with the caig and change later, where can the AHP fuses be found I'd like to put some in the preamp and sacd? Oh yeah took the money I saved and ordered the Super black hole mat!! (lol).
{nt}
Hi, it was Deoxit Gold and the rejuvenator!
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