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In Reply to: RE: Save money on Speaker wire Direct Drive- Bevridge posted by airheadair on April 29, 2016 at 20:30:28
I would love to find an OTL 3 one day - I have the original Futterman H3 - the Stax are amazing.
The output are 26DQ5 TV deflection tube. More robust than the 36Dk6 on the original and cheaper and more plentiful than the 6LF6 -about $3-5.00 each.
Thanks for posting. Do you have photos of the amplifiers separated from the speakers, or can you take some? Here or privately, can you give me an idea of cost? As you know, the original direct-drive amplifiers, in use in my SW2s, used solid state input and driver stages. Thus I have been tempted to consult RM on a tube revision. Interestingly, my amplifiers are signed in magic marker on the inside wall of each chassis, "RM, 1979". I think Harold Beveridge designed the amplifier or had a major role in it, but RM obviously built them for HB.
I think you have my Email Lew. This is a stereo amp. I did not know how I would like it. I elected to minimize the investment, after all these are 30year old speakers. One bad panel and these are expensive planters.
These are robustly built and I really don't know how much better the separation et al would be in mono in this form factor. I also elected to keep the chassis a simple Bud box to minimize cost in case it did not work out.
These are completely tube input and driver.
The main advantage of mono of course - and it is a nice one- is that you can have extremely short polarizing runs to each speaker which is definitely what I'd like to do, keep things neat and gain , theoretically, better separation. Weight plays no factor in this amp so no mono advantage there. I am not missing much with the stereo.
All that said it sounds really nice now and I was running a $13K amp on them with my front end many multiples of that.
The Beveridges were a diversion and they turned out to be almost as incredible in today s advanced world as the were more than 30 years ago. They will be staying around for a little while longer
I have plans to change the caps ( already in house) and if I get time will do that this weekend. Roger offered to install what I wanted, I elected to wait and hear it before I invested $5-600 in caps for it.
I made the investment in the caps :)
I bought my 2SWs completely on a lark, just "because". I wanted only to have the experience of hearing them and then thought I would pass them on to someone else of a similar level of craziness. But now I am addicted; I would never let them go. It took some experimentation, pain, and frustration to get them just right, but now I love them. Best of all, I can stay up all night listening to them, if work obligations permit, because my wife is oblivious to them; she cannot hear them at all in our bedroom, two floors above. Whereas, my big Sound Lab speakers are in the living room right below our bedroom; they must be turned off by 11:30, most nights, or I have a domestic dispute on my hands.
Incidentally, the panels are very long-lived if not mistreated by a blowup of an amplifier, I think because they do not carry a quiescent charge. I bought a roll of aluminized mylar, which is what you need for rebuilding a panel, should the need arise. It's still available commercially, but I would advise stockpiling some, just in the rare case.
PS. Is that the (stereo) direct-drive amplifier, sitting down on the lower left in your equipment module? My only thought is not about stereo separation or any other niceties of monoblocks; it's more about the length of the speaker wires. They would need to be quite long and very well insulated.
Marantz 10B. Very very cool.
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