Welcome! Need support, you got it. Or share your ideas and experiences.
Return to Planar Speaker Asylum
[ Asylum Support ] [ Rules ] |
Model: | S-250 |
Category: | Amplifier (SS) |
Suggested Retail Price: | $2500 |
Description: | B&O based PWM Amp |
Manufacturer URL: | ICE H2O Amplifier |
Model Picture: | View |
Review by amandarae (A) on February 23, 2005 at 00:48:48 IP Address: 4.28.146.46 | Add Your Review for the S-250 |
The ICE H2O S-250 landed in my system on the first week of January. Previously, I followed, read, and printed out all the info I can get regarding their existence. I learned from my manuscript that it takes 4 to 6 weeks to get one and it all depends if the maker is doing the “run” for that month. I called Henry Ho (designer of the amp) to inquire about the S-250. I ignored the trial or demo period (where a fully broken in amp can be demoed for a week, I think all you need to do is to pay for shipping) even though it was mentioned by one of the owner and confirmed by Henry. Even he (Henry) was surprised that I am ordering one as we spoke without ever hearing them and just relying on my research. Over the phone, one can cement an impression that this guy (Henry) is for real. Before hanging up during our conversation, he assured me of the support and warranty of the product. So I took the plunge or “leap of faith” so it seems (sometimes can be defined as stupidity depending who you ask) and secure my amp. I said to myself that if I am making a mistake (for buying something I never heard which is a no-no in the audio world) so be it. It is my money!The ICE H2O S-250 comes in pure black aluminum casing weighing approximately 55 lbs. It has 2 sets of Cardas binding post per channel (true bi-wireable ready!) and Cardas RCA input terminals. It also comes with a Balance input where switching between the single ended and the former is thru a toggle switch located in between the two input junction (ala MTM) at the back of the unit. Also, it is equipped with a female IEC so as to say “insert your favorite power cord here”. The front is a brushed aluminum with S-250 and H20 inscribed at about the left and right corner of the faceplate. A blue LED (single) potrudes from the center. Nothing fancy, but its simplicity made it look better than my other amp (which I will mention later) for different reasons.
After making sure that all connections are fine (and double checked) I powered up my system. After a few seconds the relay clicked in. First thing I noticed is that the amp is so quiet and there is no thump (even faintly). If it is not for that and the glowing Blue LED at the front, you would think that the amp is “Off” even if I placed my ear very close to the case. I cranked up the volume of my preamp and listen closely for hum. Nada! So let’s get it on! I then put in Houston Person’s sentimental Journey to start the honeymoon period. Next is Patricia Barbers Café Blue, then Modern Cool, and then several CD’s from Mapleshade which I am very familiar of.
I was shocked! Right there and then I said to myself that I think I made a very costly mistake. The sound is fine. Just like that, “fine”. Nothing more nothing less! Not extraordinary, or special, and nothing impressive either. In fact the top-end sounded harsh to me. The vocals sound sterile, devoid of the warmth. The bass, although it’s decent, is “boomy” when I increased the volume. Have you had the feeling of being conned? Because that is exactly how I felt at the moment.
So I flip through the pages and saw my copy of Audiofanj’s review in Audiogon of the ICE H2O mono amps. Like he, his first impression is nothing to be excited about. As I flipped to the pages of my manuscript, I left the amp running (playing music) since according to my text he, Audiofanj, said that at about 30 minutes to an hour, there is a “discernable” change! After an hour, my first impression was still the same. I got conned!
So I left the house frustrated. Let it run I said to myself. If it burns, it burns!
I became busy at work and never had the time to log more hours to the amp after that. But when the first opportunity arises, I am ready. I run the amp continuous for three days using a Hagerman Fry Kleaner as source crank up to the max, with the amp connected to an old speaker of mine, in the garage! After that, I then connected it to my system again. This time, after one track from my CD source, I am smiling!
The changes that happened after three days are beyond explanation! The amp is now different! But still, the treble seems to be subdued. The bass on the other hand becomes tight and deep. Before this, my thought earlier was to call Henry so I can return the amp. This time, I have the impression that something great is about to happen. So I kept running the amp to log more hours on them.
I commenced my serious listening sessions after I have at least 300 hours logged in. The amp sound is nowhere near the sound when I had it during the first week. It now have enormous amount of detail, addictive mid range, very clear top end, and the best bass I heard (my Magnepans can do). With a damping factor of 1600, why not?
Most people agree that the strength of the Magnepan is in the vocals and the weakness in the bass. I thought I heard this strength when I had a CJ Premier 11A connected to it. With the H20, I can now be counted to the statistics except the “bass” part. The amp is so good with the Maggies. The “liquidity” I heard from them when using a tube amp is retained by the ICE H2O but with exceptional bass that comes with it. For me, this amp is the real deal! I am now hearing so many small details from both my sources (LP’s and CD’s) which enhanced the listening pleasure even more. People who have a reservation on how horn instruments seems not to sound right on the MG1.6QR until you modify the crossover of the speakers should hear this amp driving their maggies. My bone stock 1.6QR “are well endowed” in this particular region now and more.
Not to be blinded by the “honeymoon period” syndrome, I tried two speakers (FE167E MLTL and Bozak Rhapsody) to hear how they sound with this amp. Keeeeeeeper! I tube-rolled my preamp, change interconnects, change speaker cables, power cords, bought new cartridge, etc. Still, the amp kept on brilliantly holding its ground. Keeeeeper! For a few days, I loitered around Maggie dealers and insist on hearing the 1.6QR with several amps. Some amps I took home to compare with the H2O which I am grateful to the dealers in making it happen. Nothing gives the presentation I have in my system with the H2O driving them.
In retrospect, I can say that a new owner of this amp will hate the amp, in fact curse it with every opportunity you can, during the first day(s) hearing it. I maintain my sanity and was able to extend my patience because some owners who got the amp before me stresses that you have to let the amp settle before making a conclusion. For me, I can finally say that I am pleased with my investment. At present, as I logged more hours the amp gets better and better. I want to see/hear how much more (if there’s any) will it improved its already addictive nature in conveying music as I hit the 700-800 hour mark as one reviewer stated in his review. I am at peace with this amp. It rejuvenated my everyday passion and contributed a lot to my excitement every time I took home a new LP or CD. I strongly recommend to listen to this amp (the demo one so as to hear the real thing) if you are in the market for an amp.
My humble equipment:
Teres 255 with battery option, Shelter 901, OL Silver MKII with HiFi and VTF on the fly Mods
Jolida JD100A modified by Parts Connecion using Sylvania GB 5751
Fisher 100B Tuner using TFK and RCA tubes
Supratek Chenin Preamp with Tungsol VT-231 (linestage), Telefunken 6922 CCa and Sylvania GB 6C4 (phonostage), Mullard GZ 34 in the PSU and Sylvania 6F6G in the regulator position.
Speakers: Magnepan 1.6QR, Fostex based 167E MLTL, Bozak Rhapsody
DIY Interconnects, Acoustic Zen Satori Speaker Cables, Virtual Dynamics P2 power cords
DIY bass traps (6), and room Lens (2), fake Ficus trees
Starsound Audio Points in all equipments except H2O Amp (BDR # 4’s)
Amplifiers I compared to the H2O:
1.)Threshold Stasis S-500 MKII (still with me but will only used for breeding purposes not for everyday races)
2.) Odyssey Stratos Monoblocks (Sold to my friend)
3.) Krell KSA 150
4.) Music Reference RM-9
5.) Cary V12
6.) CJ Premier 11A
Product Weakness: | So quiet, it does not hum, runs very cool, and consumes less energy . |
Product Strengths: | The "answer" to me! |
Associated Equipment for this Review: | |
Amplifier: | ICE H2O |
Preamplifier (or None if Integrated): | Supratek Chenin |
Sources (CDP/Turntable): | Jolida JD100A |
Speakers: | MG1.6QR |
Cables/Interconnects: | DIY |
Music Used (Genre/Selections): | jazz |
Room Size (LxWxH): | 20 x 25 x 9 |
Room Comments/Treatments: | diy |
Time Period/Length of Audition: | two months |
Other (Power Conditioner etc.): | P2 |
Type of Audition/Review: | Product Owner |
Follow Ups:
Thanks for the great review. I have been told that it is the ICE chips that take quite a while to be broken-in. I have no technical expertise so that is all that I can lend to the technical side of the discussion. I have about 900 hours on my S-250 and there is no question that the amp has changed dramatically since new. When I received mine out of the box it was unlistenable with treble that could saw your ears off. I left the amp on to cook and came back to it about twice a week and after about 200 hours the changes were not subtle. The amp has continued to change up to the present time for the better.I had the opportunity to hear the amp at Henry Ho's house last summer prior to buying the stereo version. I plan to purchase another stereo amp and biamp the Scintillas. I must say that the amp works magically well with the Supratek Chenin (same preamp that Amandarae uses). I just got the the preamp last week and this combination makes music! I spent most of the weekend with my audio system not believing how good it was sounding. This is a rare thing for an audiophile to be thinking! I am now still using the H20 and the Chenin on Von Schweikert 4.5's so the amp also works magic on nondemanding speakers as well! Happy listening, Bob
![]()
Hey Bob,It is either we got lucky from the combination (Supratek and ICE H2O) or we know something huh! Just kidding, everything in audio is a crapshoot IMO. I think it is the former....nahhhhhh!
YMMV
regards
Congratulations Amandarae,
My H20 is ready and will be shipped to me soon.I am not looking forward to the break-in process but know what waits for me on the other side as I had the demo unit in my system for a week.I had the same experience with the amp on the 2.6's that you described after break-in.Immediate ,liquid,dimensional midrange,amazing bass driver control,and one of its most impressive traits was the reproduction of ambient information from the original recording venue so that the listening room is transformed to that place!Incredible.
Hey Scott,Thanks and would like to read about your experience in the near future concerning the amp. Maybe you remember, we traded e-mails a while back regarding your initial impression of the H2O that you posted here when you have the unit for audition.
regards,
i think you're on to something there. i'm convinced large planar magnetic drivers like maggies benefit from a high dampening factor. the crown amp i'm using has better than 3000 for a dampening factor and controls those big panels with ease.
![]()
Can somebody explain to me why it takes an electronic device 300 hours to "break in?"And if it does why wouldn't the manufacturer "break in" the item before it went to the customer?
And if it does how does the listener know this is actually "break in" vice a normal aural adjustment over a long memory time?
And if it does, does the "break-in" procedure stop at that point with no more improvement...or perhaps deterioration?
Just one of the many things that bug me. Grin.
I had these same thoughts at one time.
Being skeptical, I setup a "breakin" device in the garage. ( An old Yammy receiver) I burn in cables there now, hanging a resistor on the end of the wire and letting it run for a week or so. This eliminates the aural adjustment and memory time from the equation. Dont know why, but I'm a believer. The garage is a great place. ;> ) amandarea used it for his ice amp.
Its easier to hear the difference of a before and after, than a slow over time normal break in??? For me it is.
Cheers,
Andy
![]()
A user can normally expect some product performance variations, sometimes even failure (initial mortality) when such product is brand new. That is consistent with product reliability statisitcs typically used in engineering practice. I suspect some of the "breaking in" may also be the human brain coming to terms with the new reality. I have in the past experienced many instances when the product sounded best new out of the box and then degrades after a few hundred hours of operation. Am I more prone to change components over time? Maybe the psychologists here can elaborate.
Hi Davey,I will try my best.
1.) Crystal lattices, dielectic material, magnetic orientation. All conductors where current flows has a crystalline like structure in which the flow of current should be establish. Dielectric material is like a capacitor where it charges and discharges when electricity runs through it. The amount of which dictates the necessary period to established the so called "balance". Magnetic orientation, since current is a vector (i.e. magnetic and electric) whose component is 90 degrees from each other and perpendiculat to the direction of the flow, material like resistors, wires, etc. that are close to each other will have an effect on each other's magnetic field and all the dielectric surrounding them.
2.)Time. Besides, who wants to pay for a brand new price and received a used product.
3.)If you sit down and listen 24/7 for so many days or weeks, yeah probably. What I am referring to is as you listen to it day by day or after a week or so, the improvement is noticeable. Not to be confused with aural memory or some sort.
4.)Once the patch, or level is established (i.e. memory for the caps, the best route to the lattices etc.)it is repeatable almost instantaneously. Unless of course a new component is added to the environment.
Those are all I know. I could be wrong of course since I am no authorithy on the subject matter you try to ask. I post my answers base on my understanding only. Others more knowledgable can correct me for sure.
I've had my H2O monos for more than half a year. I don't know when they stopped getting better. Frankly, I don't care. I had gone through the break in dance with another manufacturer's ICE amp. I was more patient the second time around. I can't say why class D amps need more real break in time than other designs. They just do. With the reward so great in the end, I don't mind waiting. Besides, witnessing the transformation is so gratifying.
![]()
I dunno Vince....it's just one of many things that cause me to raise my eyebrow in skepticism. When the answer to a "why" question is "it just does" I'm perplexed.
Davey, I always prided myself as being a hard nosed skeptic. If I can't apply the scientific method to a Faraday Law bound mechanism, then what?????? I remember having self congratulatory conversations with Henry over the speciousness of cable tweaking, and break in "myth."Then Henry built the H2O. I had already told him my eAR amp had sounded like wheez out of the box. That had me perplexed. I don't think he took me seriously. Henry is an electronics engineer - nuts and bolts all the way.
Now, with the obvious need for patience on first listen to the brand new H2O, Henry is whistling a new tune. He doesn't have a clue as to why, just that it is.
Read all the reviews. They all say the same thing. Amarandae is yet another voice saying breaking the H2O in is part of the process.
![]()
Great review...and a very nice system you have there. Was listening to Houston Person (To Etta with love) yesterday...another great recording.
Thanks Dave!
![]()
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors: