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What are folks using to dampen magnet wire for speaker cabling? I need suggestions for a tubular center to wrap around (diameter?), also what to place under the wire on my ceramic cable elevators. I'll be using single 4' x 16 gauge per leg runs, positive and negative twisted together (on the wrap). Something cotton?
Edits: 02/02/11 02/02/11Follow Ups:
I put a ceramic cable elevator between the wire and the ceramic cable elevator. In fact, it is ceramic cable elevators all the way down
optimally proportioned triangles are our friends
I use the isolators shown on the Anticable site, rubber bands and all. Maybe just a large 100% cotton ball or two between the wire and isolator will work.
I know cable isolators are one of the things diyers love to build themselves, but the ones from Cableisolators.com aren't a bad deal, especially when one buys in quantity. And they are heavy/tough enough to withstand a direct hit from the vacuum cleaner (which is the main reason I use them).
J,
Sorry not much time but I do have a photo on this site somewhere if you search that shows a config around some cotton string.
I wouldnt suggest 16g. It is too thick. Much better to do multiple strands of 24 g, or just use 24 g.
FWIW i never liked putting the conductors together. It just seemed to sound better when the + and - conductors were separate. YOu can easily test this and see what you think.
As for damping, I have used teflon tape (using 2 strands of magwire, a drill and some teflon tape, you can twist it all up so that the wires are insulated by the teflon...note, I just use 2 conductors twisted for the positive, not a twist for the + and -...if you do twist the + and - test it out with a meter for shorts) inside a reptisand pvc tube. Also I have used a braid around a cotton string with some techflex on the outside. Jben is using some tape that has the same material as the cascade sheets for his constructions.
Once I tried that stuff you dip hammers and pliers into to make a grip, but dont waste your time on that :)...
No one here remembers the bending of our minds
Hey DR. I found one pic you posted over at cable. Looks like you used a cotton twine.
As far as the gauge, my thinking is folks either go with the small stuff, or a lot of others go with the anticable (which is 12 gauge). So I'm compromising :^) But I have the smaller stuff too I can try.
I did play around with separating the conductors vs twisting last night, found neither way objectionable. The twisted may have been a bit more lively, and is just easier to manage. By placing a spacer in between sort of separates the conductor anyway, right?
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J,
Hey thats the pict. Yep, it is just a braid around the cotton center piece.
On gauge, what is the gauge of the mag panel wires???? There are HUNDREDS of feet of that thin wire. IME big thick conductor will mess things up and if you look at it in context of the hundreds of feet of wire in the panels themselves, will it really make a difference (well besides smearing the bass :) ). Do test some thin stuff at least to tell is crazy :).
Sure a spacer will separate things. FWIW I am kind of an image freak and not so "my way is the only way" that I cant imagine some preferring a twist. IME the twist seems to collapse staging. Crumple a paper in the middle so it is closer to you than the edges of the paper. That is how a twist sounds to me. The separated conductors is more like the paper before you crumpled the middle. But that said maybe some would like that.
Also I am talking about a fairly big separation I think relative to what I am guessing you tried.
Here is a pict:
![]()
Those IIRC are 1/2" ID tubes so the conductors are at least 1/2" apart, and are the sand filled ones I described. What I think is unique about them is the termination. Most if not all cables I have seen have to fit in the connector and the connector is clamped around the cable. These are the reverse in that the tube is OUTSIDE the connector. The fit is tight anyhow and they are superglued so no accidents.
Anyhow, the nice thing is that whatever you make will probably be better than most store boughts.
Do take some picts and post if you can.
No one here remembers the bending of our minds
Thanks. Since I finally got my x-over boxes done enough to install, figured I'd start playing with some cables.Had trouble with the finish of the boxes, due to my dusty working conditions, came a gnat's hair away from tossing them in the can. Used Rustoleum Hammered, which is sort of a "freshly painted rusty metal" look, but very forgiving. If anyone else wants to use this stuff, pay the extra buck or so for the new and improved spray head, big improvement, and what saved this job.
So far have installed five Herbies extra-thick Grungebusters dots on the bottom of the MDF boxes, lined the inside seams with rope caulk, then made a "sandwich" of a Ziplock storage bag w/ 4# of sand, which was then wrapped with a 12" x 48" piece of 100% cotton batting. Placed the mdf crossover peg board on that.
Originally thought of lining the inside of the box with VMAX damping sheets, but read somewhere (probably Al Sekela :^)) that that might cause an issue of RFI "bouncing around" inside the box, so scratched that idea. Maybe later, I could add one sheet, just on the inside bottom, that's probably where it would do the most good. We are gluttons for punishment, aren't we :^0
Thinking instead of filling the box up with more quartz sand, I may (for now) use 100% cotton balls, which will be easier to remove if needed. I"m still tweaking, have some Obbligato Copper caps on order to try in place of the Dynamicaps. Plus I may replace the DH Labs wire with more of the mag stuff. As you can see in the pic, I'm using a sheet of 3/4" Sonic Barrier as an extra damping/absorber to go over the top panel (won't secure it down til I'm "done"). Seemed like a good app for the foam paneling.
Since I use Cardas Patented posts, I can skip the spade connections on the magnet wire, and simply bend a hook to wrap around the posts (not sure how easy that would be with the larger 12 gauge though).
I had read that one should separate the wires 6"-12", that’s how I tried mine, although they weren't parallel at all. Will try it again after some room treatments, my sound stage is still slightly bunched in the middle, due to NO absorption present. The stuff is so cheap one could make multiple wire recipes for nothing.
So are you just using a single conductor per cable, spiraled around the tube?
Edits: 02/03/11 02/03/11 02/03/11
Hey J,
Those boxes look nice. I might have to try that hammered product. The finish is what is beating me. Long story, and I doubt anyone can help...I am the problem there :)
6-12" is a good amount. Are you saying you had the bunched up middle with that config? If so then yeah it seems like another room or setup related issue.
So are you just using a single conductor per cable, spiraled around the tube?
Sorry for the confusion. I start with 2 30g conductors for each + and - leg. I twist them together (only the same leg) with teflon tape. I end up with 4 conductors (+- for each speaker). Each conductor (2 30g wires) is in its own tube with no touching of the + and - conductors (as in the pict you show). The tube is filled with sand then tech flexed and the + and - tube are twisted together and some heat shrink is added to keep it all together. Anyhow, here is a diagram:
![]()
DO let us know how the damping turns out and which you prefer. I just threw in the sand and closed it up after I heard the benefits of the sand.
No one here remembers the bending of our minds
Hey DR.....what is the PVC you have in your cable diagram? Also is the flex tech available at Home Depot or does it have to be purchased at a Parts Express type of store.
H
The pvc was just some tubing they sell in the plumbing section. I am not saying it is ideal but it is easy to find, cheap, flexible and I hope far enough away from the conductors to not be a big deal.
I thought you were using a similar material.
The tech flex is available at parts express and I doubt home depot would have it, but look in the wire loom section and I might be wrong.
Jbens tape might be a better option, though I like the looks of the finished one I have.
I totally get magnepan and the compromises they make. That cable i show is nothing but compromises :) Good ones I think, but still.
And well no one accuses you of running THIN wire!! Kind of why it ended up the way it did.
Hopefully in the next 5 years I'll make some new speaker cables with my current thoughts and post some picts. The thing is that it really takes a few tries to get things where I am happy. I think I am just older these days and lack the patience I had in spades in my youth....just like dawnrazor to get it backwards...
No one here remembers the bending of our minds
Yep, instead of trying to match my (non) skills with the other woodcrafters around here, I just went with the form follows function design. I have the same problem with the final finishing step.
If I were to do it over again, I would of kept all my box corner edges square, and covered everything with some of that iron-on veneer that PE sells, no painting involved.
As far as my sound, don't get me wrong, I get good stereo separation, depth, etc. Defiantly don't have the music sitting in front of the speakers, like my old Fostex monitors. I just know when I temporarily threw in the raw OC703 insulation I bought to make room treatment panels, I heard better.
Thanks for the diagram, that makes it clear.
I’m in the DR Camp and have been using Magwire for better than a year. I’m using double runs of the 30ga stuff run through 1/2” ID plastic tubing for speaker cables. I never realized that DR’s picture of his green and black cables were incased with magwire. I like his idea of using sand. I think I have a new weekend project.
We have communicated before regarding isolation of the XO and what to use. I thought you were going to drill holes through your bases? I also thought of doing that but because of cable lengths required and pure laziness I decided against it for now. I tried Vibrapods, inner tubes and wood buttons, kinds of like with Mapleshade recommends. To my surprise the wood buttons were what I used on my SMGa’s and on my MG2.5r’s until about 10 days ago.
I went out to purchase some Repti Sand to pour into my XO boxes and right before pouring in the sand, it occurred to me that the weight of the sand would compress the bubble wrap under the platform my components are mounted on. Being in the tweaking mode, I decided to try the inner tubes again. Months before when A/Bing the wood buttons and inner tube, the buttons seemed to have better clarity with a more solid bottom end versus the inner tubes.
When I inserted the inner tube this time, I did not A/B versus the buttons but listened to my system over the weekend. The sound with the inner tubes grew on me. A couple things to mention is that things just seem quieter and I can now play my music louder without harshness starting to creep in. I thought that this harshness was due to my room simply getting overloaded. My room is only 15’x17’ and I knew the speakers weren’t getting over driven. I’ve come to the conclusion that when I really cracked up the volume, the bass panel’s vibrations were transmitted to the bases that my XO boxes were sitting on top. The inner tubes do a better job in isolating the crossovers. An inexpensive $5 dollar tweak you may want to try.
BTW, your speakers and crossover boxes look great. I too swapped out the 6uf Dynamicaps for Obbligato’s and preferred the cheaper Chinese caps. I have the copper tins and oils in my 2.5 crossover but did use (3) 2.0uf oils to replace the Dynamicaps in my SMGa’s. I know you will enjoy them as well.
H
Hey Hoshi. I originally got these modded speakers going back last July, you would think I would have it figured out by now:^)My "current" line of thinking is: I filled the 10 x 10 Ziplock baggies with 4 lbs of sand just to obtain a 3/4" depth. So if I fill the entire boxes up, they will be a good 30 Lbs.+ each. Good or Bad? Well, if I keep the boxes on the bases, that will add mass to the speakers, but also I would think that would help transfer more vibrations back to the boxes. If I drill and add the extra crossover platform, that will remove the weight off the bases. But I also plan on building/adding a couple of either open baffle or w-frames subs, with the 4 AE-IB15 drivers I have, to flank each MMG. So that means the x-over box, coupled directly to the floor, would probably pick up more vibration from the subs.
As is right now, I can physically compare the vibration coming off the struts next to the x-over boxes and the dynamicaps inside the box, with the lids off, and there is a definite reduction of vibration (almost non-existing on the caps). So I think I'm pretty close to where I want to be.
What's the diameter of the inner tube you are using? Off a bike tire? Something maybe Northern hardware or a bike shop might carry?
Glad to hear about the Obbligatos, They are said to have a more analog sound, should be interesting what they do for me. I know PG has mentioned problems with the Dynamicaps, I had a fairly long breakin with mine. When I moved them from my temporary crossover board into the boxes, for a day or so I was getting the same breakin issue, what's with that? Pretty much all I did was replace the temporary plastic and steel wire nuts I was using with the Cardas posts, which I know from prior experiences are fine.
Edits: 02/03/11
The good thing with using the zip lock baggies is that if you don’t like the sound, it would be easy to change their weight or remove them completely. I do wonder if a zip lock is pliable enough to let the sand get in between the components to further minimize vibrations. I do know that weight on the crossovers do make a difference. I had some very lightweight XO boxes on my SMGa’s and putting a bag of sand on each box made a noticeable difference.
I think you are correct with your thought process of vibration coming up through the floor if you eventually add a couple of subs. I read a link you once posted here regarding in-wall infinite baffle subs. I’m assuming your floors are not concrete beneath your carpet.
Regarding the size of the inner tubes I’m using. Don’t use hardware store wheelbarrow inner tubes. They normally are about 9 inches in diameter. They have normally made of rubber that is too stiff and hard. They don’t sound as good as the 10.5” size which I believe is intended for a small child’s bike. I believe I purchase mine at a Target/Walmart type store. I’m sure a bike shop would have them as well. These inner tubes are made with a thinner rubber and I’ve found them to sound much better. I have done quite a bit of experimenting when I used these things under my DAC.
I bet the hardness you are again experiencing with your Dynamicap’s are probably just solder that needs to settle in. Those Obbligato in my opinion are just better caps at a faction of the price.
Good luck and I’m curious on when you hear if you decide to give inner tubes a try.
H
I did a little bit of searching for the inner tubes yesterday, couldn't find any that small, although I didn't check out every bike shop in town. One fellow told me wheelchair tires use as small as 8" inner tubes, so that could be a source.Anyway, I bought the material to build the extra platforms instead, they will raise the boxes up only 3/4" more, will still be under the drivers. I'll use Norsorex (unhappy) balls, mounted in bass hose caps as the isolation feet on the legs of the platforms.
Remembered I have a couple of SubDude HD platforms that I can use under the subwoofers, that should help with the vibration there.
One thing I did try is remove the sand bags out of the batting. Felt an increase in vibration on the crossover board, so the sand is doing some good. I could imagine that the full monty sand bedding box does work as advertised.
Edits: 02/05/11
I’m surprised you are having such a difficult time finding the inner tubes. I’m sure your Norsorex solution will do the trick. My XO boxes actually are about 2 to 3 inches higher than the lowest section of the driver since I wanted to reduce the height of my 2.5’s as much as possible. I doubt your boxes will change much of the sound even if they end up being a bit higher that the bottom of your drivers.
Since you are still in the process of tweaking your crossover components, have you considered a bypass cap for your quasi ribbons? I played around on my SMGa and a few different bypass caps and was amazed what a .01uf cap in parallel with the 6.0uf cap does for a bit more transparency and detail. I’m a bit surprised that more people don’t try them or at least mentions them in this forum. I liked them so much that when I built my XO for the 2.5’s, they were a no brainer.
Eek, don't know anything about bypass caps. I followed the series crossover instructions PG emailed me, the only reason I know about the Obbligatos is because that was one of the alternatives he mentioned in the email.
Is that something that can be applied to the MMG series crossover design, and what does it accomplish? Right now I'm using the 30uf film oil Obbligatos, the Jantzen inductors, the Duelund resistors, and the 6uf Dynamicaps, which will be replaced by 6.8uf Obbligatos.
Tell me more :^)
I can say the one tweak I tried that didn't appear to improve anything so far was the choke tweak. Maybe my speakers/system isn't resolving enough yet, still have lots of things to check off the upgrade list.
Or maybe there's just no RFI around here...yeah right
I like you did not get a benefit from the Choke Tweak. It made a sonic difference and even tried some resistors in conjunction with them as some recommend but did not like the overall effect over the long haul. Maybe our amps have a feature already build in to reject RFI.
Here is a link to an article from North Creek Music. http://www.northcreekmusic.com/Bypassing.html
I’ve also included a capacitor test at the bottom of this reply. Basically, if you add a small value cap of .01uf or less, the high frequencies have a less obstructed pathway through the crossover. In the opposite scenario, a single cap of 30uf has the entire frequency range filtering through it and some of the extreme high frequencies get polluted and lose something. The bypass caps value is almost nonexistent; being so does not change the crossover slope but the highs have more of a straight pass through.
I am not an electrical engineer and I’m sure someone here will correct me but that is the way it was explained to me by an EE. It seems to make sense to me and works.
The good thing about this tweak is that it can be very inexpensive to try. The smaller valued caps are relatively cheap, with some decent ones costing less than a few dollars. To install them, simply wire them in parallel with your 30uf cap or caps.
I’ve found that a poor sound bypass can make your highs sound disjointed and unnatural and will be a detriment to your overall presentation. A bypass that sounds right will make you think you’ve got a pair of ribbon on your MMG’s…..well almost.
I have tried the follow my SMGa’s:
Vishay MKP 1837 .01uf
Obbligato Copper .056uf
Jantzen Silver .01uf
Axon .056uf
Mundorf Silver Oil .01uf
I am took the Mundorfs from the SMGa crossovers and used them in my MG2.5r crossovers. I’m found the Obbligato to be very good for the money. They were only a couple of bucks each. The Vishay’s were very highly rated in the survey but made the high register sound disconnected in my system. If you do try these, make sure you damp them as they are smaller that the size of a dime. Yeap, the Mundorf’s are the ones for me at this point but they should be at over $50 a pair. But I guess when you think about how much we spend on other components in the hobby, it’s not that bad.
I love how the guy's reference caps in the review are the Duelunds, as usual in audio, unobtainium (for me anyway) is always the best...Thanks for the info, I will have to try this.
Edits: 02/05/11
Actually the sandbag/cotton batting combo goes under the crossover board/components. When I was originally planning on going the full sand route, I had a concern that eventually the pegboard and components might vibrate their way down to the bottom of the box. So the sandbag/batting was put there to maintain the proper spacing, to prop up the board and act like a constaint layer. As an alternative, one could use cotton "parts" bags, instead of plastic. But AFAIK, to order these on-line involves large quantity purchases.For damping around the components, I'm just using the cotton balls. Al Sekela often recommends cotton batting as an alternative to sand. IMHO, unlike the batting, the balls should fit around wires and parts better.
Yes my upstairs listening room has wood floors, kind of mushy. The downstairs HT room is open ended with concrete floors, and I play hell getting decent bass in that room.
Definably will check out the inner tubes. My boxes are 11 1/2" square, so they should fit underneath fine.
Edits: 02/04/11
By my reckoning, there are ~24' of foil for the tweeter and ~132' of wire for the mid/bass - at least, that's what it looks like on my MMGs. Still, your point is valid.
---
Just curious, have you listened to a band from Poland called Riverside? You might like them. The singer (who can sing) also did a couple of solo albums under the name Lunatic Soul, which I like better.
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"Information is not knowledge.
Knowledge is not wisdom.
Wisdom is not truth.
Truth is not beauty.
Beauty is not love.
Love is not music.
Music is THE BEST." FZ
Hey Waz,
I think you are right and the bigger mags have even more wire and the latest mmgs have 2 more tweeter traces, so yes, HUNDREDS of feet.
Thanks for the music tips. If I had to pick, I think I like him better in Amarok, but what do I know. I envy you and your $5k music spree, but for the life of me I cant think of how I would ever find 5k worth of titles I even wanted. Sad I know, but we all have to play the cards we are dealt...
What is that line, "its all been said before". Well for me after the 80s it really is true YMMV. Even if it isnt, I cant find my way past all that compression in todays new music.
No one here remembers the bending of our minds
I lob one up to the net and you didn't smash it back in my face. I only gave the length of wire on the panels, which is what applies to you and the active crowd. Those of us still living in the dark ages have inductors in the path - that mid/woofer wire length is in the hundreds of feet for us!
Amarok - gee, and I thought that was just the name of a Mike Oldfield album. I kept thinking, "What singing?"
![]()
"Information is not knowledge.
Knowledge is not wisdom.
Wisdom is not truth.
Truth is not beauty.
Beauty is not love.
Love is not music.
Music is THE BEST." FZ
Hey Waz,
I am trying to be nicer this year :) But yeah most people have hundreds and hundreds of feet.
And fwiw the active crowd wont have me. Sadly I am still stuck in the dark ages with you. It is a cabling thing at this point and a lazy thing and a wife missing me and getting the same day off as I have.
Who the hell is Mike Oldfield??
No one here remembers the bending of our minds
sry, couldn't help it.
Who the hell is General Failure? and why is he reading my disk???
Are you going to tell me that you never saw The Exorcist? Mike Oldfield is the guy who has recorded Tubular Bells about a dozen times - his last being orchestral, and I think the best. Anyway, he also did this album:
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When I looked up Amarok in the context of Mariusz Duda, I discovered the album about which you were speaking. Mariusz did the vocals on six tracks. I guess I need to get my hands on Metonia. According to what I read, they took their name from the Oldfield album (out of reverence for it). There aren't many singers with voices that I really like - his is one of them.
So, you invested in those two nice Parasound amps and you're only using one of them? I thought you were doing active with your Lynx card. Come to think of it, I don't remember seeing any posts about your completed framing project. It sounds like you're getting as slow and lazy as I am. Since going into semi-retirement, I'm really getting bad.
![]()
"Information is not knowledge.
Knowledge is not wisdom.
Wisdom is not truth.
Truth is not beauty.
Beauty is not love.
Love is not music.
Music is THE BEST." FZ
Hey Waz,
Nothing wrong with living under a rock...
I THINK I saw the exorcist but man I was a kid or teenager. I get it confused with the Omen I think. The exorcist had that girl who did the neck gymnastics right. And the Omen had the dobermans??
I should quit while I am ahead...tubular bells?? man I am so lost.
There is a sample between songs on an album I love and I think it is from the exorcist. it is some old guy saying "where we'll share our dissensions" or something like that. There that is the extent of my exorcist knowledge.
And I was really posing about Amarok. I checked out riverside on you tube and well it lead me to Amarok. I swear I had heard of them somehow. Years ago I got some mp3 samples and I think that was one of them.
I was passive bi-amping and decided to go active and make some hybrid stands. In the interim I decided to redo my music computer and have to make cabling for the active route. I also am thinking about some other mods including transformers for the lynx output. and then there is some delam that needs to be treated like 10 other things I can come up with.
Sadly my days off like today, are the same. I find myself just on the asylum and not doing anything useful... Have to get going.
No one here remembers the bending of our minds
Hey Look what I found from a review of my favorite bands latest album:
“Mourning Sun” brings the album to a close. There’s a slight feeling that this is what “Into The Fire” (from the Fallen album) should have sounded like. There are the same surging guitars, but this time they are mixed with more movie samples. There’s a slight Mike Oldfield/Exorcist theme through the early stages of the song.
Sadly that album is really compressed (thanks studio a holes) and I dont listen to it much.
No one here remembers the bending of our minds
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