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In Reply to: RE: 1.6 Passive Crossover Upgrade posted by Jim Treanor on July 17, 2008 at 16:26:50
A loose lead will do that. You need to be careful with that because I lost an amp one day because of that.... at least everyone involved thinks it was that :^ )
And what a can of worms you opened! I had tinkered in my mind only about doing some playing a few months ago but decided against it, because what I had originally done I liked very much, and so did everyone who tried or got it.
But between problems getting stock and some of the reviews I've read about other things, I want to try some different caps. I suppose I have to now, but I really didn't want everyone who already tried it to feel (if I report a better parts design) that they now had to "upgrade".
So I guess I have to keep my mouth shut. Yeah, there's always a first time for everything :^ )
If you ever want the schematic however just ask. Nothing beats a unified, full range driver. (and no, the parts you bought are not useable :^ )
It's all about the music...
Follow Ups:
Since I don't want to pry that worm can open any further, I won't mention that (if you didn't already know it) Clarity has introduced, or is about to introduce, a "premium" cap, the MR. Don't know the price structure or when the MR's will be available, so it's probably a good thing that I didn't tell you about them.
With respect to upgraditis in general, I tend to agree with a point implicit in Mando's post a short time ago about taking time to optimize existing system setup (and giving it a good extensive listen) before hitching a ride on the something-new-every-month merry-go-round. Like Claude Rains--but far more sincerely--I'm shocked, shocked at what I'm hearing emanate from the 1.6's with the new crossovers. The $200 investment in parts has already more than paid for itself. I've not had to hire a contractor to move the walls outward or put up with any in-progress construction mess (and for all I know they may creep out even further after some more burn-in) as the virtual image has expanded and assumed more reach-into and finely-textured palpability. I'll reframe the speakers, but beyond that I expect I'll shift into an "if it ain't broke..." mode and spend the time just enjoying the music and the newly emerging nuances within it that I haven't heard before. That, after all, is what I got into this hobby for in the first place.
We'll see how long that resolution lasts. :-)
Jim
http://www.geocities.com/jimtranr/index.html
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No, that's safe to say. I have have found (and many "cap shootout's" have born out) that the top of the line one isn't always the best sounding one. Best maybe if you want your ears to bleed, or you want to hear info that isn't there in real life, you know, "audiophile" grade stuff :^ )Short of buying the $800 Duelund caps (or whatever it is they cost) I have found all caps are a trade off and you need to balance the right pair to get what you want, as you won't get it from a single entity. It's more a matter of finding the right synergy than just getting "the top of the line" ones and throwing them in.
I agree too much playing leads to nothing but unhappiness, and it isn't just audio. My best friend had a 67 Cougar when we were young, and he started tweaking it with new carbs etc.. At first, when he did the simple, logical upgrade it ran great. But then he had to get the "bigger, more barrelled carb" and change this and change that and finally he reached a point where it ran like pure crap because all he did was replace every part with the most extreme one he could.
That said if you put your drivers in wooden frames, all I can tell you is you ain't heard nothing yet. But before reaching that point you should try turning them and tilting them if you have not done so. (just swap sides to keep the tweeters outboard, and run the wires to the front and stick 2-3 DVD's under each front foot) You might not like it, but the majority of the people who try it do so it's worth a shot, and it's free.
Thanks again for the kick start :^ )
It's all about the music...
I'm not sure whether you should thank or curse me for the kick-start. We'll see what time tells. In the meantime, I'm just going to settle in and enjoy--and prolong--the moment until I'm ready to turn on the table saw and the router. Given what I'm hearing now, that may be a while.
Jim
http://www.geocities.com/jimtranr/index.html
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Others have said it, but let me say it again. I really appreciate your doing this step by step and giving each change a chance before going to the next. This will give each of us a much better idea of the relative merit of each mod. It will add much to our collective knowlege.
Rod
Glad it might help. I expect to let the caps (i.e., the Clarity SA, since it was the last one in) burn in for at least 150 hours before I start with the reframe/rebase. I may even do a pilot rebase project (i.e., replace the stock feet with a double-sided bolt-on support mated to outrigger feet) first to determine if what I have in mind has any audible impact on performance with the stock frame still in place.
I have the time, so what the heck.
Jim
http://www.geocities.com/jimtranr/index.html
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