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General Asylum General audio topics that don't fit into specific categories. |
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In Reply to: If one HAS to build a raised house... posted by marc g. on May 9, 2007 at 09:07:44:
marc g.,If you need to use a raised floor- the best case when the site has a lot of slope, then you can get rigidity and vibration damping with the use of a lightweight- non-structural- concrete on the floor. Double the bottom plate of the walls to create the "form" and pour the lightweight to the top of the plates- close to 3" thickness. The floor joists may need to step up a size to accomodate the extra weight- have the structural engineer check this.
A non-structural slab of this kind is very effective- for example if you put a bedroom over a garage, the isolation of noise and vibration can be almost total, plus a vastly improved fire separation.
Years ago I had a house on a raised floor and the transmission of vibration throught the floppy floor was extreme enough that there was feedback from speakers back through the Oracle turntable. I could see the tops of the speakers wobbling back and forth 3/4" while the woofers tried to make something like an 8Hz sound- and using about all 105W of the ARC D115! Lightweight concrete would've completely negated that problem, I had to move everthing around such that the equipment was almost in another room- (on another floor structure) from the speakers.
A couple of other recommendations if you're making a purpose built listening room:
1. If possible, have at least one wall non-parallel and a sloping or divided ceiling.
2. Avoid proportions that are multiples or that have common denominators: for example an 8' X 16' X 24' is not as good as 8' sloping to 11' X 17' X 26'
3. Use STC- "Sound Transmission Clips" on the drywall to reduce transmission through walls. Dual glazing of course really helps keep out outside noise and some companies offer specia sound reduction lines of windows.
4. Plan the furnishing to audio equipment layout carefully. Today, I'd include an Internet hookup and potential computer location nearby to the audio system. In my future home, I'm putting in a whole house local network so I can potentially have a computer device connected in almost every room.
5. Consider dedicated power circuits running in conduit and using a reasonably priced, high- grade outlet like Hubbell 8300 or Pass and Seymour 5362 (see VH Audio). In my future home I'm having three 20A circuits for the main system: two at the main equipment area with one for preamp and sources (actually feed for power conditioner), one for the power amp, and then at the wall next the speaker location another duplex 20A in case I ever want monoblocks. (Using Hubbell 8300 receptacles)
6. Oversize the AC/heating duct and air registers to reduce air velocity a bit. If you can, use smooth sheet metal rectangular ducts instead of the flexible round kind, these details will really quiet the A/C air rush sound. Also, locate the registers so the air is not directed at you when listening.
Plan three times and build it once!
Cheers,
Bambi B
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Follow Ups
- Lightweight concrete ! - and a couple of other suggestions - Bambi B 09:46:54 05/10/07 (0)
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