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Single Ended Triodes (SETs), the ultimate tube lovers dream.

RE: Resonant Frequency Test? ... link


Tubes and capacitors! Best thing we can do with both is have a box full of them (in caps, you need different brands as well), and play.

Let THEM tell you what is the correct applications and values. You will have far more useful "data" than just theory to figure it all out with-- later. Keep the Science & Theory HANDY, just don't FALL IN LOVE with it!

I see you're a thinker:

You've seen all the criticism on my old amp on here. Take another look at the picture posted by GSH and see if you can figure out why the main ground bus wire went straight to the IEC socket ground, and why it was routed that way instead of going around the other side of the amp where all the Power transformer A.C. lines are.

People like to make amps look pretty inside. I do what I can and is practical, when that works. Can you figure out why there's a "bird's nest" wherever many capacitors are paralleled? Why are the leadouts (from each cap) not straight, why are they coiled, or bent? (doesn't look as pretty!).

Why are leadouts from the power trans left as tinned-copper, but elsewhere in the amp, a lot of silver is used? How did I get away with a Hammond, unshielded power trans? Why was it used?

Why is so much brass used? What fasteners must be brass, and what ones can just be steel?

What spacing is necessary when you bundle caps, and why is silicone glue used to bundle them? Why aren't they allowed to touch each other-- or be near anything else? (In each bundle, they're separated from each other by glue pads).

Back to the "bird's nest": The photo is 2-dimensional. What is happening in 3 dimensions that is important in mounting parts-- sonically, and, since they can't be allowed to touch anything or be too close to it, what anchors them? Why is the chassis as deep as it is?

Where is most of the A.C. hum in this amplifier coming from, and what efforts were made in later years to cut it back, but still not affect the sound qualities?

What did the manufacturers of some S.E. triodes do in the last 3 years to reduce hum levels?

Why can't Zip-Ties or cable bundling (to look neat) be used to anchor parts or wiring?

What wires CANNOT be anchored or bundled with, or be near-- anything?

What happens when grounds are "dressed" close to the chassis metal, and how is this different from signal-carrying wiring?

What about B+ wiring? How is it different from the other two?

What happens if one of my old amps falls off a table onto the floor-- and what protects them if one does? How does this relate to shipping them around, using UPS or FEDEX?

What happens when even the best of modern capacitors are used to bypass a cathode "fully" (that is with both the cathode resistor value and the tube's calculated "resistance" rolled-into one, and that figure used to determine the cap's value). What happens sonically?

What can you do to inch closer to the calculated cathode cap value and get away with it sonically?

If you put two resistors in series on the cathode, and bypass only one of them, why will that "sound better" than having only one resistor fully bypassed?

What is there about putting two resistors in "the tail" (cathode) in series, and bypassing only one of them that will wreck your signal linearity and timing accuracy on Hi-Eff. speakers? Why can't you get away with this, and what works vastly better?

These questions are open to all members-- GSH opened things up, so let's figure it out.

I like your system ideals, and I think you're going to be a Happy Camper!

---Dennis---













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