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Its time for an update on the BDT preamp saga. For those that don't remember the original posts this is a preamp made with Beam Deflection Tubes (BDT) which were originally made as color subcarier demodulators for color TVs. BUT they just happen to be one of the most linear amplifiers ever made and behave like differential amplifiers with balanced in and out (they make great phase splitters too), with one really neat feature: the gain can be adjusted with a DC voltage on the control grid.
Anyway the original was cap coupled from one output, then I added a Hammond 124B transformer to the output to combine both outputs, this sounded quite good but the tubes were microphonic and quite susceptible to hum pickup. I used it for awhile then tried a bunch of other topologies. Recently I brought it back out and added a Lundahl 1660 output, this was way better than the cheap Hammond, but I kept on thinking I could do better.
Next I talked to Dave Slagle and he designed a custom transformer for this design, this was significantly better than the 1660 (but more expensive). This was getting really good, but was still plagued by hum pickup.
At this point I decided I needed a little more gain but couldn't get it. The effective mu from the deflectors is quite low. So I decided to try cascoding the outputs. I put together a circuit using a CCS into a resistor as a voltage reference and fed that to MOSFETS used as cascode elements between the plates and transformers. This worked great. The gain went up and the distortion went down. (I know its not tubes, but its way easier to build than with tubes). But the hum was still there, thus started the hum eradication efforts.
First to go was the AC heaters, DC helped a lot. Then I determined it was picking up hum from the power supply iron. The chokes disappeared to be replaced by single low C filter followed by active regulators. I know this flies in the face of fashion, but the chokes just give off too much field. Next came the power transformers. I tried several things and wound up with an Antec toroidal, with the primary wired as 240 but actually ran at 120. The fields from this were REALLY low.
I thought this would do it, but no, I still had hum, less than before but still annoying. I eventually traced it to the power supply for the big 813 power amp. I wasn't going to rebuild THAT! So that left shielding. I decided to try thick aluminum. I had heard that thick aluminum makes a good magnetic shield due to eddy currents induced in the metal, but it had to be pretty thick. First I tried Front Panel Express, but it was going to cost almost $600 to have an enclosure done through them with thick aluminum. After seeing that figure I went DIY. I found a guy on ebay selling 1/4" aluminum plates at very low rates so I bought a bunch. I then spent three weeks cutting, drilling, tapping and countersinking aluminum to make the box. This is split into two compartments so there is a 1/4" plate between the PS and the "signal" section.
I put the tubes on their own separate 1/4" thick plate which was isolated from the rest of the box to try and cut down on microphonics. After getting it all built the hum was gone when I listened to it (YAY) but I could still see some hum on the scope when I turned the gain all the way up. I did some more testing and determined it was direct magnetic field pickup by the tubes. The aluminum box did a good job of shielding, the field inside the box was much less than outside, but it wasn't perfect.
I decided to try other forms of magnetic shielding, so I ordered some metglas from lessemf. I made a little cardboard "chimney" wrapped in metglas to put around the tubes. With this the output was clean, no hum visible on the scope at all.
Then I listened to it. Jaw on floor etc. etc. This was magic. The only change was the shielding around the tubes, no wiring change at all. It went from sounding wonderful to magic. Voices in particular are so real sounding its scary. Its hard to describe the difference with and without the shield other than to say the music sounds so much more life like. Its real, its alive. Its detailed without being harsh or edgy or throwing detail in your face; its smooth but not syrupy or slow.
This sounds way better than the best "passive preamp" I have on hand, don't ask, I don't know why this is so. I even tried running the DAC direct to the power amp and it does not sound as good.
I'll post schematics in a couple days if I can pry myself away from the listening room.
John S.
Follow Ups:
Maybe I'm wrong but a passive or very direct would be the most pure way to go but maybe you really don't like pure. Maybe you do like a bit of color in your sound. I know I do! But hey! That's me! I know of a recording musician that played his CD before it went out for EQing. Garbage! UGH! You know the deal. Came back from the recording studio with all the tweaks and issues redone. Sounds great but far from natural unless a direct recording is so unnatural that it stinks. But who knows?
As for the hum noise? I built a 26 tube preamp that I eventually sold becuase, well to this day I really don't know why but I can always build another one when the time comes. Noisy? Yes! Until I enclosed the whole tube in its chassis with the cover actually screwed down to the chassis(a must). Couldn't just be on the chassis. It has to be secured. Noise went way down to almost not even there. Nothing audible from the listening position so I was satisfied. My speakers are about 96DB efficient so when your ear was up to the drivers the noise was there. But that's the beauty of these DHT triodes and the such.
As for the sound? Like yours, it was magic. But the whole deal was getting the tube quiet and I did accomplish that but they didn't show on top of the chassis the way some of the DIYer's like.
I am hoping the new owner likes it as much as I did.
I tried your transconductance FET pre and transconductance power(EL84 paralled) and am enjoying them.I have nice DIY chassis from ebay and hopefully build your BDT pre in it. Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
C.Y
Hi John,
What sort of output impedance do you get?
Cheers,
Pete
The circuit is a pure transconductance amp (or about as close to one as you can get). That means the gain is directly related to the load impedance. Since this would make it very susceptible to things like cable capacitance etc a load resistor is put across the output to set the gain and the effective output impedance. You have a fairly wide range to choose from. The lower the value the lower the output impedance and also the lower the gain.
I'm currently using a 10K load resistor since that is what the transformers were designed for. The gain is a little high so I think I will switch to a 5k load. There is no reason why you can't use a 1K load which will give about unity gain at maximum volume control setting. The problem is the custom transformer was not designed for that. If you use another transformer that should not be an issue.
In addition you can have fun with step down transformers. Since the impedance goes up with the square of the turns ratio, you can use that to advantage. For example if you have 2:1 step down, thats 4X the impedance to the amp which gives 4 times the gain, which stepped down is 2X the output gain for the same load resistor, OR 1/2 the load resistor for the same gain. You just have to make sure the tube and transformer can handle the signal level. (I've run these tubes up to a 90V PP signal with no problem)
John S.
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nt
Beranek's Law:"... if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker." ACOUSTICS,B. Beranek,McGraw Hill
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