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148.2.192.140
Hi
Beyond the Klipsch, what else is there to built?
Anyone heard the Decware corner horns, and could give a statement about their sonics?
/Pix
Follow Ups:
Here's a Corner Horn we have tried with Coral Beta 10 and Feastrex D9e.. Very good results.. but cabinet is huge.. I used the room corners ... so I omitted the wings portion of cabinet plans
http://www.frugal-horn.com/ronhorns.html
Just kidding.
May be something simpler.
2 or 3 ways active x-over/bi or triamp and with time alignment cooperate into the design.
Now Dat's Wut I'm Talkin' Bout! Near-field like immersion at a distance.
Could you elaborate on the origin of the photo please?
Cheers, Craig
http://www.theanalogdept.com/molinier.htm
These are all corner 'horns' that are easy to build and sound amazing!
http://www.zillaaudio.com/bib-calculator.htm
http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib.asp
http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib-pics.asp
They are called BIBs, short for Bigger Is Better. Typically they are built with full or wide range drivers and placed into corners where the opening at the top of the speaker uses the ceiling and walls to continue it's design.
Enjoy!
Godzilla
Here's my Great Plains Audio 604 speakers.
I designed the 9 cu-ft BR cabinet design to somewhat resemble the Tannoy GFR corner speaker.
The cabinet is constructed of 3/4" cabinet-grade plywood with an additional 3/4" MDF glued/screwed together on the forward facing 3 baffles and bottom. Internally, they are heavily braced and coated with Hy-Tech SC1000 sound deadener which used hollow ceramic microspheres. It works very well.
One other GPA design on the web had the x-over rigidly attached to the cabinet. To avoid the x-over from picking up any cabinet vibration, I placed it on a 3" piece of closed cell foam (similar to memory foam) and using string, anchored the corners of the x-over loosely to the cabinet bottom. I also put adjustable feet on the bottom to aid in levelling the speaker since the front baffles are 1.5" thick vs the rear at 3/4".
I was going to put grill cloth on the entire front baffle and the vertical slats on the sides to look like the GFR, but it looked so nice with the natural maple I left it as is.
The cost was $1500.00 for the drivers/x-overs. A local cabinet maker built the boxes and did a fantastic job- cost $2000.00
Total cost was about $3650.00 including the Hy-Tech, other hardware and damping material.
In the past 39 years, I've owned, reviewed, sold more than 40 types of loudspeakers ranging from $235.00 to $10,000.00 These are the best sounding I've heard.
Cogito Ergo Credo
Does GPA manufacture these or have plans to build these?
How would you compare the sound to a pair of Klipshorns?
What is their efficiency rating?
Cut-Throat
I designed these speakers myself based on the T-S parameters of the driver. GPA does not have the plans.
I don't know what the efficiency is. The drivers are 99dB/w.
I owned the K-horns and had installed the Al Klappengerg x-over which helped tone down the mids. I also moved out the K-55 mid/horn and used an Altec 802-A/with their 511 horn which also helped.
However, my GPA mids/highs are more refined sounding likely d/t having better drivers. Bass seems about the same.
Cogito Ergo Credo
You are right on leaving the Grills off! - Much better looking with all of the nice wood.
Would you mind sharing your plans? This is something I would like to have built for me.
Cut-Throat
I'll look for them, but don't know If I'll be able to find them. I had planned on rabbet joints, but the cabinet maker use butt joints glued/screwed instead. They would have been cheaper to build if it weren't for the vertical slats on the 2 narrow front baffles and the walnut trim on the top and bottom.PM a fax number if you have one so I can send the plan.
Cogito Ergo Credo
Edits: 09/22/09
Yes, Pi speakers has a version called the Seven Pi. They have two or three different versions using 15" or 18" drivers for the bass cabinet.
www.pispeakers.com
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