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A hundred years ago when I assembled my first Dynaco pre-amp, amps, and tuner, there was a product developed by David Haffler (don't remember exactly what it was called) that used a very simple circuit that fed a stereo source to rear amps and speakers for a simulated "surround" effect. It worked quite well on some vintage recordings.
There was another version that allowed 4 speakers to be connected to a single stereo amp (I believe it summed cannels A+B and fed them to the rear speakers).
Does anyone have schematics to share?
Thanks.
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Here is a schematic of the Quadradaptor.
-Tom
Dynaco's QD-1 Quadadaptor connects two front and two rear speakers to one stereo amp. The manual is at http://www.akdatabase.com. Click on any of the mfrs shown, then click on 'Brands A-D'. Dynaco is on page 2, and the QD-1 is on page 2 of that - good pdf file. Depending on the setting of the attenuator control, the left rear speaker gets a mixture aL-bR, and the right rear gets aR-bL. Determining a and b is left as an exercise for the reader! (sorry, I'm too lazy just now). Note: The negative L and R amplifier input terminals are normally connected in the driving amplifier (as in the ST series for example).
There is a later version, the QD-1 II I think - may be a manual for that on the Internet, haven't looked.
"...The manual is at http://www.akdatabase.com. Click on any of the mfrs shown, then click on 'Brands A-D'. "
Any of the mfrs shown EXCEPT Sansui!
Don't ask how I know.
GP49
Thanks for the tips. I was able to locate a manual and schematic. I am now thinking wiring a simple switching circuit that would be similar, but rather than driving four speakes from a single amp, would instead be inserted between the preamp and four separate power amps. Does that make sense? Any impedance or loading issues? Any suggestions?
The link will bring you to a article detailing a tube based matrix which could be used to output basic surround channels which are similar to the basic Hafler (Dyna) quad. Left - Right (difference signal) for the rear channels and a Left + Right signal for a center channel. Not sure if you'd need additional input or output buffers. Early surround processors (Dolby surround) used something similar. Low pass filtering (above 8khz was rolled off @ 6dB/octave as I recall) and adjustable delay was added to the rear channels.
-T
To do this at line level requires aome sort of phase inverter to derive the L-R and R-L signals. Take a look at sound.westhost.com, project #18, a good discussion showing a passive circuit using a transformer (expensive & hard to find) and an active circuit using op-amps. If you don't want center channel or sub-woofer outputs, you can leave that op-amp out. Might be nice to put a gain control at the rear output - 10K would be a reasonable value. Also, this circuit gives you L-R only, so to duplicate the effect of the 'Hafler circuit' shown in Fig 1, you could reverse the polarity of the right rear speaker. Not sure you'd hear much difference - try it!
there were two particular albums that sounded very ggod with DynaQuad - The Beatles "Let It Be" and the second "Blood, Sweat & Tears" ("And When I Die" in particular).
Dynaco and Vanguard Records issued a demonstration LP with several selections from the Vanguard catalog that were particularly effective when played through a Dynaquad system. I still have mine.
GP49
Thanks for the posts. I looked at 'project 18' and it seems to be exactly what I am looking for. As I am not interested in center channel or subwoofer outputs, I guess I could simply disregard the second op-amp and its associated circuitry?
Also, can it be battery powered? If so, would the -15 v. go to ground?
In "project 18" Fig 3, you can omit parts R3, R4, R9, R10 VR1 and C1. With battery power, C2 and C3 need be only 100nF, connected close to socket pins 4 and 8.
You can't omit U3B as it is part of the dual op-amp U3. Best way to disable it is to connect pin 6 to pin7, pin 5 to ground, pin 7 floating.
Do NOT connect "-15V" to ground!! This really needs balanced + and - voltages - two 9 volt batteries should work well and give you a reasonable output. Total drain should be 7-10 mA, not too bad, but switch off both batteries when not in use!
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