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In Reply to: Re: LP12 Setup Problem posted by info@vinyl-records.org on May 10, 2007 at 09:15:56:
Thanks for the reply.
" and for me turn the comp. a bit higher"
"comp spring"?Do you just mean the springs? and what do you mean by turning it "a big higher"?
Many thanks,
Follow Ups:
i mean the comp. suspension system . norm is the level - armboard - inner steelplate - but by a new set up it makes sinn to set all 3 springs a bit higher, watch the bearing spindel . middle of the hole , and and for level , look under the turntable, at last check the arm board, some are not in level with the case sides , itīs only for the eyes !! check the comp . for a pumping result , when you have a satisfied position , set the springs cautiously step by step down , to corr. level.. i hope that helps ... sorry for my stutter english...mfg juergen hesse
On my LP12 I used the following approach to set-up a new set of springs. I placed the LP12 between two small coffee tables so I could go underneath like a mechanic under a car. I also used a 100 watt lamp to light up the bottom so I could see clearly. I next removed the old springs completely and this left the assembly sitting on the top plinth. Of course I also removed the inner platter and main platter.Next I used a pencil to marke some parallel lines on the bottom of the plinth. Using the rectangular bottom plate as the guide, I manually centered the whole assemly so that the screws were dead-center. I marked three lines using the edge of the metal plate as indicators for physical alignment of all screws dead center.
This way, when I put the new springs back on, I knew exactly where the bottom plate had to line-up so that each screw was physicaly centered without actualy having yo look inside the springs.
It took me about 45 minutes after this to re-tension and line-up the suspension and the release the tension on the rubber grommets after turning the screws to center the asembly. I repeated this until I got the suspension to be physically centered.
You need to look vertically up from the bottom along each of the bottom plate's edges to see when it each border lines-up with the straight pencil marks. The border of the bottom plate served as a straight-edge when pushing this up against the bottom of the plinth as I made the straight pencil lines to indicate dead-center physical alignment.
Also I made sure that the alignment of the arm-board was also correct before making the guide line marks.
I myself find it very difficult to see when the screws are centered, it's almost impossible to see-through the springs. This is why I opted to make some straight pencil marks to know where the bottom plate assembly would be physically lined-up to have all 3 screws dead center and the arm board properly aligned with the edges of the rectangular opening on the plinth.
You then need to make sure that you don't over tension the screws and springs while checking that the suspension has the correct play and can move about the vertical axis of each spring while centered.
You should not hear any noises or rubbing sounds. Also a good idea to connect the cable to the tonearm and also fasten this with the P-clip while making the final adjustments for proper freedom of movement.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for all your help guys.
I found a temporary solution to the problem by fishing out my old belt from storage. This is quite a bit lot more stretched/longer than the new belt and doesn't pull the suspension in the top left direction nearly as much as the newer belt, - meaning it is possible to centre the grommets and have no grommets touching. Maybe my newer belt was a fake or a bit tight (faulty?). Though I'm sure it definitely was a genuine Linn Belt. I'm not sure what to do when my old belt wears out!
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