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Hi,
I'm beggining to do a rewire of my RB300 with Audio Consulting 0.15 silver wire. I'm planning to do a direct loom from cartridge clips, cardas rhodium plate over brass, to RCA's, Eichmann silver bullets.
I have made a brass bottom socket with a german analog artisan to replace the plastic stock socket. This brass socket has two holes to pass the cables and has one screw with a cable atached for ground.
My question is, are this ground solution the best available? I have done some research and there is, at least another solution named "hot wired rega" (http://www.hi-fi.com/diy/rega/) attaching ground from the rubber cap in the headshell trough all the tone arm till the socket extracting, as well, the original ground cable. The other tips to do the rewire seems to be nice since they say that you don't need to dismatel the arm in pieces.
Thanks a lot in advance,
Beto
Follow Ups:
If you take off the counterweight stub and look inside the tube, you should see the gounding wire clip. It is actually a press fit into the threads, and can be removed and replaced quite easily with a suitable needle nose pliers. As long as you have that clip, you can thread a new ground wire through the base and out the back of the arm, solder the new ground wire to the clip, replace the clip in the arm, cut the ground wire to length at the base, and then solder it to the new socket.
The Rega main horizontal bearing is a bastard of major proportions. The hole diameter is very small and the metal is stepped so the wires hang up as you try to run them through.I used a spinal needle and inserted it through the rega wire hole and then feed in the wires. Works slicker that synthetic oil.
You might be able to find some very small gauge tubing for model aircraft that will fit that hole as well.
Hope this helps.
I think running the ground from the rubber plug is great. Just sand everything clean so you get good contact.
I scrapped the rubber piece all together in my arm and ran shrink wrap instead of the crummy black carbon paint.
This really balanced out the frequencies between the midrange and highs. The stock arm sounded very disjointed and I was ready to throw the arm out. Then I saw the mods that Mitchell made and said what the hell.
Removing the paint was really critical to getting the sound natural. They used this stuff simply to hide the poor cast aluminum arm wand. It is one very poor quality casting. They claimed it chokes resonances but it really just chokes the sound quality.
Hi tubesforever,
thanks for advising. I will try to put the ground in that way.
Last night I have destroy (cut the border) of the rubber cap on the headshell trying to get it off. Do you believe that this may be replaced for some hand made piece of rubber? or maybe it is critical to absorves resonances on the wires and must be made of a very tight tolerance and made with the right material, so better find a source to replace with an original?
Regards,
Beto
p.s. how do you waipe the black painting? but this may need the complete dismantel of the arm and the adjust of the bearings in the right way. sounds a little hard, don't you think? I can try, but I can't find any info about it to guide the process.
Hi,
there are other two posible ways:
I'm wonder if I need to preserve the original ground wire connected to the socket also (figure A) or it is enough with just the socket (figure B). There are, also two holes to pass the cables across the socket.
Regards,
beto
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