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In Reply to: Good suggestions. Is this also doable? posted by tonyptony on September 17, 2006 at 14:11:55:
I don't believe so. Alcohol and oil do not mix. You need to cut through any dried residue that might be there, so a stronger solvent would do a better job. Lighter fluid, electric motor cleaner, and brake cleaner are some choices. Cleaning with boiling propane, as has been suggested by Mark Kelly, will get into the pores of sintered bronze, if perfect is your goal. WD-40 will coat the surface, and that is not necessarily what you want. In any case, it would be a good idea to have the bearing assembly out of the turntable and in a well ventilated space.
Follow Ups:
go through the old posts about idlers etc. and how people clean them up. electric motor cleaner and a Q-tip worked great.
lighter fluid is about the best surface cleaner there is. Trust me as a 30+ year machinist who spent many of those years as an inspector operating a coordinate measuring machine which utilizes air bearings. I used Rosonal to clean the air bearing surfaces, and I can say that it leaves absolutely no residue, once the surface is clean, using it as a "rinse"
Is Rosonal in a form that can be introduced at pressure (so I can just spray it into the well while the subchassis is upside down)? If not would putting it into the bearing well while the subchassis is right side up a way to start? Let it sit for a bit and then turn it over to drain?
No, it is not pressurized- it is "squirted". I'd have the well rightside up, and squirt it in around the top, and let it run down the sides. Do this a few times and then turn it over and drain it. Repeat a time or two. Swab out the little that remains with a Q Tip. Check the Q Tip for the foreign stuff. Something like that, yep.
Agree. Lighter fluid.No need really to worry about applying under any sort of pressure.
It comes to keeping adequate fresh solvent (lighter fluid) circulating around the elements in question, agitating the elements to the extent that debris and old lube are dislodged, and keeping up the circulation of new fluid to wash away.
Depending on the part involved, submersion & agitation works even better.Whether Motor assembly or Spindle bearing, you can depend on Naptha / Lighter Fluid to dissolve and clean parts without overkill and without leaving anything behind.
Something else to consider is that anything, any probe or utensil, that may leave lint or shreds of cotton or any debris of it's own --- isn't worth using. So Q-Tips or paper-towel aren't high on the recommended list.
Oldschool and kinda 17th century though it may be, try a bit of lintless cotton fabric (generally there's a 'diaper' material avail in bulk as "shop towel") and wrap it up as a soft wadding around a clean, dust-free stick.
Bamboo shishkabob or chopstick is perfect, and you get to feel like you're loading an ancient Musket at Gettysburg or something.
No remaining debris, a stiff spined cleaning utensil to scrub away with is all you need.
And some lighter fluid.Good luck,
Thanks guys.J., would those gun cleaning patches work? They are small cloth squares, but I'm not sure if they are lintless.
Butthead,
He just said a college word.
Yep, it is good.
I did a search on Mark's posts and read through it. A clever idea, as long as you're careful! I guess the thing I need to find out is whether the ES-1 used a sintered bronze well.
That's something I don't know. Boiling propane is a bit daunting for me. Anyway, I always use electric motor cleaner that can be found at Auto Zone in an aerosol can. It works fairly well, but I am sure that it leaves some of the old oil in the pores.
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