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In Reply to: Best Sounding Turntable/Arm For $ 300 - 350? posted by Dan on September 9, 2006 at 14:41:00:
Just think "EMPIRE" for a turntable and you will be pleased.Simple-Reliable-Trouble free- and will last forever!
Get a Shure M97XE cartridge from Amazon and be set for years!
You can spend thousands and not get anything better.
Regards,
Follow Ups:
Yep, it should be included. It should be pointed out that the Empire and the belt driven Rek-O-Kuts are essentially the same, however. The main mechanical difference is in the bearing assembly, both of which are excellent. The price difference between the Empire and Rek-O-Kut should also be taken into consideration when planning for a tonearm, if one is strict about the price restraints. The Empire is a looker while the Rek-O-Kut is pedestrian looking at best. Those looks are partly what makes the Empire higher priced than the Rek-O-Kut, but both can be made into world class turntables with the sky being the limit as far as modifications are concerned. Even so, a $350 one will amaze you with its performance.
I just have to compare it against my B-12GH Rondine Idler.I plan to use a thread drive as you and Ray have done. I saw a post not long ago where you had recommended using heat shrink on the ROK capstan. Is this to correct speed or to provide less slipage?
I cannot wait to compare this table side by side with the idlers! I have a sneaky suspicion that I am going to like them equally well. Gotta love those Pabst motors.
Guys, Any opinions on the REK o KUT B12H ?
I picked up this table along with a fairchild 412-2 a few years ago.
The REK is super clean and after a little cleaning is smooth as silk.
The REK arm is pretty corroded, so ID like to find an arm that will actually fit the table.
It gave me years of pleasure, but was later surpassed by the first AR TT, followed by even better Dual TTs to the one I am now using, the Rega P3, by far the best of all that I have owned. Perhaps if I knew then what I know now about feedback, I could have improved the 33-H quite a bit.
Joe,Switch the tonearm, and it will put all your subsequent turntables in the dust. I was amazed by it, and Ray-O-Stat and I (with the help of Mark Kelly) are embarking on a couple of fairly extensive Rek-O-Kut projects. There is a lot to be said for that clunky looking old machine.
...a lot can happen in forty years. I put my Linn LP12 on a shelf, and never looked back after making a few minor modifications to a Rek-O-Kut.
You will need heatshrink to correct the speed because the shaft is convex, and the string tends to ride to the narrowest part. You will also need for it to be hard vinyl heatshrink. I tried several before I found one that worked, so I'll send you a little kit with some of that, and some thread. Heat the shrink while you are checking the speed with a strobe disc. Then, quickly remove the heat when the speed is correct. You may have to put a bit of superglue on the knot to keep it in place, too. This setup will beat the Rek-O-Kut idler, a Linn LP12, any Rega ever made, and God knows what else, if you clean the bearing with brake cleaner, and oil it with two parts Castrol Syntec (any flavor) and one part 90 weight Mobil 1 gear oil. If you want it to really sing, replace the bearing with a silicon nitride one. Take the motor outboard, and drop the platter assembly into a heavy plinth, and you will probably step up several levels. That's my next project.
While I love the idlers for dynamics and bass, I also miss the dead quiet background of my Thorens. I am playing it side by side with my two idlers and the Thorens is very involving and engaging.....It has also been modified like crazy.
I wonder if a tungsten bearing would not be an ultimately quieter bearing than the silicone model. I should try one of each and let you know.
I am hunting for one more Pabst for a special project in mind. BTW I got the table on ebay for 89.00 bucks....I am stoked.....I tried to buy another today but another inmate paid some serious green. I bet he loves the thing.
Mosin, If I can get some thin width mylar film, would that be as good as the thread drive, or am I rowing up a creek without a paddle. I would think the extra surface tension would improve dynamics and prat.
You're rowing up a creek without a paddle.
I am looking forward to the N-33 as much as I was looking forward to the idler.BTW I was originally using 45-75 hypoid Mobile one gear oil for the main bearing on my LP-743 and ScottRT mentioned hearing a warbling on the table compared to the Technics CDR I sent to you.
So I cleaned it all out yesterday and I am running 10-30 weight Mobile One full synthetic oil and I do hear a slight improvement. I think I will try some 5-20 weight next go around.
I have that ADC running on the Unitrac and damn if you are not right again. It just seems to improve with each hour of play. Miraculous to hear it bloom. I am spinning some Beatles albums I picked up at the thrift store on Thursday evening and having the time of my life.
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