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69.134.191.29
I don't know what you guys were worried about, or why you made me worry about not being able to get it back together : ) wink wink grin grin.It was very straight forward, but it took me most of the evening. Removed the four bolts holding the thing together and it came apart in four main pieces; top, middle with windings, bottom and armature. There was still oil on the bearings, but it was getting pretty thick and sticky. Sprayed everything down with electric motor cleaner and cleaned the bearings out with a clean lint free cloth and put a light coat of 3 in 1 (20 wgt) oil on the bearings and the shaft of the armature (grease on the bottom of the shaft) and put it back together.
I had discovered that there were oil holes after all when I was cleaning things up. You had to have the motor off the mounting plate to see them though. I think the bearings are the kind that are semi-porous and designed to hold oil, so I put several applications of 3 or 4 drops in each hole and let it soak in before adding more. Ran it for awhile before putting back on the turntable and it was obvious it was running much more freely. Put the motor back in and decided since I had things apart I would see if I could fix the spindle distance a bit. I was able to get it within 1/16 with the adjustment that was available in the mounting hole. I then balanced the tone arm and set the cartidge up with the Geo Disc as best I could. The overhang is still about 1/16 too long, but everything else looks good. It is playing as I type this and it sounds really good, better than it did before I cleaned and lubed the motor. Another plus is it seems to have more torque now as it spins up faster with less tension on the idler. Vibration in the plinth is nil.
All in all I would have to say everything turned out better than I had hoped even. My thanks to all who helped with advice, and a special thanks to FredJ for his encouraging words. You da man Fred!
Vince
Follow Ups:
Vinnie- Glad to hear you dug into that monster and did so sucessfully
there are a few motors like the Thorens TD 124 types that are not particularly easy to re-assemble properly aligned but most TT motors are ridiculously simple many have only 1 moving part (the shaft/armature and the two halves.The 3 in One Oil is some very lame stuff by todays standards
I think you'd be well advised to either shitcan it or relegate it to squeeky door hinges, it's more of an alleged lubricant, only superior to WD 40 which is essentially just a Chlorinated Kerosene derivative.I'd advise you to use a quality synthetic motor oil which isn't going to break down/shear,oxidize and varnish in short order like the 3 in One which isn't going to provide adequate lubrication even ever but is going south fast to leave your motor completely unlubricated in short order, personally I like to use a dab of synthetic or Moly grease on the shaft bushing when the motor is torn down.
Just curious, as a thinking person who is obviously careful why did you think 3 in One would be adequate ?
Kind Regards fred
Fred
I downloaded the manual for the russco and it called for 30wgt motor oil on the platter bearing, 3 in 1 on the idler bearing and 10 wgt non detergent oil on the motor bearings. The 3in 1 I used is for 1/4 hp or larger electric motors; seemed like a good bet to me as tehy turn at anywhere from 1750 to 3000 rpm. I will have to do some research on this one. I can always tear it down again if need be. :)
Vince
VinnieRemember that was a very long time ago ! and the table was marketed almost exclusively to Broadcasters not audiophiles
who are just going to use and abuse them and then replace them
with new ones periodically when they've developed any issues of have just been around too long.As well as the fact that lubricant technology was very primative
by comparison.Folks who are anal and validation neurosis stricken to the degree
they go to great ends and cost to obtain the original manufacturers
"correct" proprietary lubricants are using crap that was very lame when it was fresh back in the day, but is now usually oxidized and close to useless now.
If you don't believe me buy a some cheap non synthetic grease smudge some on your work bench and watch it turn yellow then brown, that's oxidation.At any rate the manufacturer Russ Friend and Associates hasn't exisited for at least the last 35 or more years, kind of precludes simply ordering spares, so it's sheer idiocy to use any but the better high performance current lubricants, which compared to do do like 3 in One literally make wear immeasureable.
However don't buy any of the snake oil $$$$ eBay Platter lubes
as the Moly and other ill advised and detrimental additives the kitchen table would be lubrication engineers add to their bullshit snake oil crap as it'll at the very least render the Sintered Bronze
Oillite Platter bearings devoid of their wonderful properties and at worst destroy them when they seize up.Regards fred
I think all that would really be necessary is to oil more often. There have been thousands of motors that have had long happy lives on 3 in 1 electric motor oil. Ya just have to remember to use it. I may give the other a try the next time I service the bearings, depends on what I find out with a little research. I do appreciate your help though!
Vince
Tell it like it IS!!:)
Always good to read a good story. Rock and roll.
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