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I have 4 runs of 1.5 meter AudioQuest Diamondback RCA Interconnects. I must shorten the runs to .5 meters. I have ordered the Cardas SRCA plugs and have on hand WBT Silver Solder.It has been years since I have done anything like this. Has anyone had any experience with this procedure?
The AQ Diamondback cables have a lot more wires within than I expected - including a drain wire...which I admit my ignorance as to what that is.
ALSO, the AQ literature states that the shield is only attached "at one end, providing total shield coverage without compromising the negative conducting path." Whatever that means.
Any help whatsoever would be deeply appreciated. Or, if you know a link that addresses this issue.
Follow Ups:
2nd, 'more wires' are 3 signal cables--1 positive and 2 common/ground/neutral/return. You can use an Ohmeter to verify that end to end.3rd and 4th, the drain wire is the connection for the shield, to equipment/connector common on one end only. "...providing total shield coverage without compromising the negative conducting path..." means the shield is NOT a signal conductor. AQ connects the shield at the load (= driven-equipment) end. If you wanted to make your job a little easier, cut the cable to length while leaving the load-end connector on--that is, cut off the supply-end connector--and you won't have to deal with the shield.
One more suggestion--I and many others love Cardas Quadtectic solder. It sounds great, and because it melts at a lower temp than high-silver-content solders, it's easier to use. If you'll e-mail me at jeffreybehr(at)cox(dot)net with your mailing address, I'll send you some, free.
Good luck.
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Tin-eared audiofool and obsessed landscape fotografer.
http://community.webshots.com/user/jeffreybehr
The thing is, weren't the AQ terminations resistance welded on? In me foggy memory, this was a major mojo for them.Second the Quad Eutectic. Have you ever tried the Tri Eutectic (ROHS) kind? All the lead-free stuff sounds like a cold joint nightmare to me.
Aloha,
I've used high-silver-content solder for a few years; since it requires higher temps to melt and flow, the potential for cold joints is indeed greater. Also, that stuff doesn't make a shiny, normal-looking joint, so it's tougher to see that a joint is cold.
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Tin-eared audiofool and obsessed landscape fotografer.
http://community.webshots.com/user/jeffreybehr
It's their 96/4 ROHS whatever. Michael Percy sent me a pound by mistake (mine; I forgot to specify) and I sent it back. I don't hate it, never used it; but I love the Quad to death. I hope it doesn't get phased out.Aloha,
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