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What I'm imagining is a wood platform fastened directly to the bottom of a pre, cd player, amp, etc. Remove the component feet and attach said wood directly. Preferably using screws or small bolts to facillitate removal if necessary.
My thought is to make a given component even more resistant to vibrations using a natural material before using footers, roller balls, flotation or whatever, on top of shelving or another platform.Would this work, or am I experiencing cabin fever from staring at the good 'ol component stack too long.
Comments, ideas?
Follow Ups:
Picture a sumo wrestler on a trampoline. Now picture the vibration modes of a heavy power transformer mounted on a chassis bottom plate that is supported only at the corners and edges.The resonant frequency of such a device will be in the mid-bass or lower, and stiffening by placing the bottom plate directly into contact with a thick cutting board will improve the bass clarity. I use sheets of Deflex rubber between the component and cutting board, to prevent chatter and to dampen the remaining vibrations. Deflex rubber sheets are available from partsconneXion.
Thanks for the input. It's good to know I'm not *totally* nuts. I'm thinking of tightly fastening the component to the board with an odd number of screws in an asymetrical pattern. The thought is to lower the resonant frequency thereby raising the amount of force needed to create vibrations in the first place.
Next is what to place between the board and the floor (linoleum over concrete)? Soft coupling: inner tube, sorbothane, etc? Hard coupling: arrow points, brass cones, wood balls, or whatever? Should there be *another* platform between the "boarded" component and the floor as well?
I think I have some experimenting to do =^).
supported by beams in place of shelves on Lovan rack frames. My floor is suspended, so you may not need as much horizontal isolation as I do. It depends on whether the dirt under the concrete has settled and created drum-head areas in your floor.I cemented sheets of heavy stainless steel to the bottoms of my butcher-block cutting boards to allow them to ride freely on the ball bearings. There is very little compliance below the Deflex in my setup, but the floor can flex like a drum-head. The Lovan rack frames are filled with damping materials and spiked to the carpeted floor.
I did what you are proposing on a CD player of mine some time ago. I mounted a piece of 3/8-inch plywood to the bottom of the player with screws. This damped the chassis somewhat. My intent was to mount drawer pulls in the plywood such that rollerballs could be mounted beneath drawer pulls attached to the plywood.I mounted another set of drawer pulls to a piece of MDF mirroring the pulls in the plywood. The drawer pulls were held in place by modeling clay in both the plywood and MDF.
I used 3/8-inch stainless steel balls for the roller balls. I was quite satisfied with the results at the time. I subsequently, read that the roller balls should make contact in a concave dish either above or below, but not both.
I have since modified another CD player and used Tungsten Carbide balls in cups below and the flat portion of the CD player chassis rolls atop the rollerballs. I have not done an A/B with the two players to see if I discern a difference.
Although, I must say that I did hear difference when I went from stainless steel to TC rollerballs in the latest modified player.
I say go for it. It, certainly, is a step up on cabin fever.
DaveT
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