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In Reply to: Civilizing The Russian Teflon Capacitor posted by Mike B. on December 21, 2006 at 11:18:37:
Hi Mike,I cracked open a few of these I had around, but the solder (presumably a high temp high activity type) doesn't melt under heat, or with flux- how do you get them off and attach the new lead to the aluminum? Aluminum doesn't bond to solder
Follow Ups:
I had no problem soldering them. I cut the weave type lead off and tin it with silver solder and also tin the replacement stranded copper wire. After joining them, I then bend the cap lead around the new copper wire and insert back into the body of the cap. Slip the white plastic end cap over the wire and use a glue gun to attach it.
you cut the weave type lead off the body of the cap? then tin it? or you mean you leave it attached to the cap but cut it off the original terminal?I think I'll stick with the stranded subleads mine had in the can, if I have to attach to them anyway. thx.
I guess I should have taken pictures. Don't remove it from cap body. soldering to the cap foil is almost impossible. Cut the lead at the end caps.
I don't see why there must be soldered new leads to the cap.
The leads that come off the foil inside the cap are non metallic and I suspect them to be copper. They terminate into a rigid steel lead that exits the case. The whole mod deals with eliminating the magnetic metal from the caps.
I think what he means is that he doesn't see why you need to add new leads to the internal leads that attach to the foil. Oh, and they're DEFINITELY metallic ;)
I simply don't believe the short lead makes an impact on sound quality.
But YMMV. It's OK.
The K72p6 has slight magnetic stiff lead (2.5mm diametr)
.
The FT-2 have non-magnetic soldering tabs.
Yet I slightly prefer the K72p-6 sonically.
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