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There are a number of sources selling these Russian military surplus teflon caps. The big drawback IMO is the magnetic metal case and leads. It is pretty simple to remove the casing using a pipe cutter at each end of the tube. The ends with the leads are attached to a fairly long braided wire. Careful untwisting and pulling will expose the wire and allow cutting from the steel. Inside each end is a white plastic washer. I remove them and reuse them on each end. Solder on your choice of wire leads. I then use hot glue to attach the plastic washer to the end of each cap. The last process is to cover with heatshrink. The end result is you get a very good cap for around $3 each.
Follow Ups:
Hi Mike,I cracked open a few of these I had around, but the solder (presumably a high temp high activity type) doesn't melt under heat, or with flux- how do you get them off and attach the new lead to the aluminum? Aluminum doesn't bond to solder
I had no problem soldering them. I cut the weave type lead off and tin it with silver solder and also tin the replacement stranded copper wire. After joining them, I then bend the cap lead around the new copper wire and insert back into the body of the cap. Slip the white plastic end cap over the wire and use a glue gun to attach it.
you cut the weave type lead off the body of the cap? then tin it? or you mean you leave it attached to the cap but cut it off the original terminal?I think I'll stick with the stranded subleads mine had in the can, if I have to attach to them anyway. thx.
I guess I should have taken pictures. Don't remove it from cap body. soldering to the cap foil is almost impossible. Cut the lead at the end caps.
I don't see why there must be soldered new leads to the cap.
The leads that come off the foil inside the cap are non metallic and I suspect them to be copper. They terminate into a rigid steel lead that exits the case. The whole mod deals with eliminating the magnetic metal from the caps.
I think what he means is that he doesn't see why you need to add new leads to the internal leads that attach to the foil. Oh, and they're DEFINITELY metallic ;)
I simply don't believe the short lead makes an impact on sound quality.
But YMMV. It's OK.
The K72p6 has slight magnetic stiff lead (2.5mm diametr)
.
The FT-2 have non-magnetic soldering tabs.
Yet I slightly prefer the K72p-6 sonically.
You did not state what kind of improvement do you experience with the naked version compare to the canned stock version?
Thanks.
BTW: In't the cap more prone to pick up noise without the can?
I have only tried them in a tube amp as a coupling cap. No problems in this application with noise. I have not done a side by side comparison, but I am going on the assumption the steel case and leads create a hysteresis effect.
Mike,
My thinking is that the steel pin has more effect on the sound then the cover which I would think is non conductive or has a non conductive coating. What I am thinking is to leave the cover but remove the pin somehow to attach lead wire to the internal lead wire.
Question: Is the internal lead wire long enough to pull the lead out and attached a new external lead wire? Not sure how I can pull the pin out but maybe by using a small drill bit and drill around to detach from the glass expoxy seal. Do you think it is possible to remove the pin this way and leave cover intact?
Thanks.
As a coupling cap they sound way better than the V-cap and I don't have the patience to wait for burn in.
OK, I admit my ignorance ... why is the metal casing a bad thing? After all, several capacitor makers offer metal encased capacitors.
Caps. used (mil-spec.) in critical weapons systems, satellites, etc. are always canned. The cases can be tin or even silver as in the case of wet slug tantulums. The films used are typically Teflon(R) or Polycarbonate. These caps. are never seen in the audio world.
It only works as an electrostatic shield if the can is grounded...
That is why I always grounded mine. Good to know they have leads to works with. Nice cheap teflon cap.
The Elaborate DAC=Johnny's Balloon Meshplate 27 Balanced Preamp=Balanced Six Pacs=Newform Research 645
A Panasonic PPS cap. with OFC leads from Digi-Key is probably just as good, if not better than a butchered Russian "Teflon"(R). It's one tenth the price too. Or maybe in this case more expensive is better? I would not want any kind of Russian cap. given their track record of poor quality control overall. When it comes to Teflon(R), if it's not film sourced from Dupont, I don't want it. Purity is everything.
John Curl you should know better. Maybe your mega-buck preamp is not for me. I'm glad for your sake that it is popular in the far east.
To think I once idolized you...Tom
Probably better? I have tried the Panasonic polyprop caps and the Russian teflons. The teflons are much better IMO. Curl didn't say he used the Russian caps. I know for a fact they are expensive domestic units. If you want a better cap, get out your wallet and be prepared to spend much more. But then again, ignorance is bliss to some.
PPS is polyphenylene sulfide.
some of those. I'm not a believer in the beeswax or oiled filled, but the copper and silver foils are surely a cut above sonically. I believe the difference is audible in some circuits over aluminums. It would be great to be able to experiment with them large scale.
I'm a big believer in such quality in loudspeaker crossovers. I cannot believe how many high end speakers use bi-polar electrolytics in their crossovers. Over the years I have modded many of my own speakers with better films. For a long time I used TRW Teflons and Polystyrenes, but they are no longer in the business. They sold their operation to another midwest company, I can't remember now. I still have some and they are way too big to fit/cluge into most of my gear.
Accuphase and Luxman still use copper foil polystyrenes in their components. They're inductively wound but excellent at audio frequencies nonetheless. Many consider polystyrene to be the best choice for audio where temperature is not a concern. They were common in the '70's and '80's, but now they are pretty much gone.
MikeB, thanks for the info. Copper leads are really important. We have tried both types of leads with Rel Teflon caps. Copper is MUCH better, than the magnetic leads.
I'm sorry for the rude words John. I misread your post and jumped to conclusions. Time for a break.
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