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Just got in my antenna and antenna rotator, and have a couple questions to ask. Where can I buy antenna discharge units? Second question is, do I need to sheild and or seperate by space the antenna cable (75 ohm) from the rotator power cable, to minimize any induced signals such as 60hz hum and or possible switching power supply noise, from the rotator power cable? I realize the coax is sheilded, but is that enough? My rotator is a NTE U-105, it says it operates on a safe low voltage, but does not explain what that would be. I've looked in the archives with no sucess, anybody help me here?
Follow Ups:
Tandy (RS) used to sell an in-line job for coax with an earth tab, but used the big RG259 sockets and needs self-amalgamating tape even around RG11, and I bought two when it was on run-out, for a spare gaseous capsule!"kay?
WarmestTimbo in Oz
The Skyptical Mensurer and Audio Scrounger'Still not saluting.'
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You should pick rotor cable that is intended for outdoor use. The insulation or sheath will then be UV stabilized. As noted, inductive coupling from the rotor cable to the coax should not be a problem. However, what you may find is that if the control box and your amplifier are plugged into the same AC wall outlet, pops and clicks from the rotor box relays may be audible through your stereo system. I have that problem but it's not a big deal.
Try Radio Shack for a discharge unit. The only time you have current flow in the rotor control cable is when the rotor is operating. There's no need to shield the control cable but if you're the belt and suspenders type, you could use shielded 3 wire 20ga. shielded. It's fairly easy to find. I found a site and according to it your rotor runs on 18vac. (http://www.aedwis.com/antennarotors.html)
Good luck and remember higher is better.
Sometimes I can't see the forest for the trees, should have realized antenna rotator power could only be an issue when the antenna was moving. Makes me feel kind'a stewpid!;-)
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