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I've just been offered an immaculate pair of these and having spent a couple of hours reading every damn thing I can find about them, I am being strongly tempted.
Now I know a couple of people here have them and one or two others were thinking of it, so what is the consensus about them?
Comments seem to be pretty much all positive.
Follow Ups:
Does anyone use power conditioning at all on them? Or straight into the wall...?
I've had a pair of the Mini-Mites for a couple of months now and in my system they sound fabulous, and they compare very favorably to a BAT VK-3ix/VK-55 combo that I auditioned down at the local stereo shop. For power tubes I've used EH KT88's, Penta KT88-98's, Tesla (not JJ) EL34's, the stock Shuguang EL34's, and for driver tubes I've tried Amperex Bugle Boy 12ax7's, GE 5751's, and the stock Chinese 12ax7's. Even with the stock tubes these amps do not sound rolled off at the frequency extremes, and I would suggest a cabling/preamp/source/speaker change if the Mini's are sounding rolled off in your system.
I inquired and Mike Sanders said the 5751 will not operate properly in the Mini Mite Mono. I asked because I wanted to lower the output a little and I have a lot of NOS (GE) 51's. Just for your info.
Mike also said that the best tube to use in the MMM is a KT-88. I have some but am enjoying the new Sovtek 6L6WXT+ immensely. Very clean with sparkling highs and very surprising LF extension. That tube is also a bargain at something like $55/matched quad from Parts Express.
I love how the MMM enables tube rolling.
I know that Mike doesn't recommend the 5751 tube type for the Mini-Mites, but I checked with an amp designer/college electronics professor aquaintance of mine and he saw no reason not to use 5751's in the Mini-Mites. I subsequently tried the 5751's in my Mini's and had no problems what-so-ever. As always your mileage may vary, so if you're at all nervous about trying 5751's in your Mini's then by all means don't do it.
Yeah I don't know why Mike would say that. I've always thought the 5751 could be swapped in with a 55% reduction in gain. Who knows.
I have a bigger problem with my Quicksilver line stage. It has way too much gain and 3 clicks is all it takes to reach crisp listening levels with cd's. I should just try the 5751's in it and judge for myself.
Mike's probably just covering his butt (and I can't blame him) in not recommending the 5751's, but the Mini-Mite's circuit design doesn't appear to be anything out of the ordinary, and 5751's are drop in replacements for most 12ax7 based circuits, so it stands to reason that 5751's will work in the Mini-Mites. At least they did in mine.As far as 5751's offering a 55% reduction in gain, if memory serves me there was a slight loss of gain of gain in my Mini's with the 5751's, but it was no where near 55%, so I don't know if the 5751's are going to have all that much gain reducing effect on your linestage.
the mu's (factor) of the 12AX7/5751 (100/45) would not translate that way, you are right. But I would expect an audible gain difference?
I don't want to bug Mike again on the phone. By now he's probably convinced that I want to redesign his Mini and Line Stage! I'm not that arrogant!
It's just that I cannot live with 3 clicks of range on a preamp with cd's. I have not played any vinyl through it yet (Sutherland phono stage), but it's probably fine for that.
I have a few preamps so maybe I'll swap in another one for playing cd's. No, that would be a pita!
If you want to try some 5751's in your preamp to see how they would effect the volume, I've got a pair of GE triple mica black plates that I could let you have for a reasonable price. E-mail me if you're interested.
I have six GE's but not black plates. One of the reasons I'm exploring the 5751 thing is that I want to put them to use. I've had them in my tube stash since the early '90's. Thanks for offering.Tom
Both for the helpful information... whether or not you agree with his tastes and for the ease of switching around.
I've had them for a few weeks and am very fond of their sound. I bought them because I wanted to experiment and I have grown tired of my huge solid state designs. One nice feature is that with their auto-bias you can experiment with KT-88, 6550, 6L6, 6CA7, KT-66, EL-34, KT-77, 5881 and other variants. I have a huge number of premium matched tubes and this feature was a big plus for me. So far I have tried El-34EH's and Sovtek 6L6WXT+. I like the 6L6 sound quite a bit. It's an underated tube anyway for hi-fi and premium matched quads are a bargain at about $55. Mike Sanders said a good 6L6 can last up to 10 years in his amp, which runs conservatively, not maxed out. This particular 6L6 has a very sweet high end. I'll probaby settle on KT-88's long term as I have so many and Mike Sanders of Quicksilver said it is the best for the minis. Mine are Svetlanas.
Each monoblock has an incredible 100 Joules of energy storage per channel, far more than even the beefiest solid state designs. This may account for their incredible dynamics. It's hard to believe they only "have" 25 watts each. This is an example of quality versus quantity. I've used them with my Tannoy Eyris DC-3's and Polk RTi6's the best little two-way I have heard in years.
The fit and finish is very high. I got the optional chrome transformer covers which dresses them up a bit. You can order these for $100/4.
You have to be a fan of minimalism like I am. From your house, furnishings etc., I know you are too. The minis do not any screened graphics or fancy panels. They are just happy being underated, humble superstars.
Well, I had forgotten you had just gotten a pair.
A friend of mine deals in bankrupt stock and suchlike and he is getting them this week. They have only been a shop demo model and although the RRP is much higher here, they will cost me about half price.
I have always liked monoblocks and they are a bit more powerful than the tube integrated I am running now. That will mean I can sell 2 amps and free up some cash. I might even get rid of my 1.8 metre Kimber Select... errrr I forget which... KS 3033s and I might even be able to get such short speaker cable runs that I could use the Kimber jumper leads.
I have been thinking of putting my Pre back into the system as it would allow me to use my 1960's California hand built tube tuner again and so this would all pull together nicely. Even if my thought of an all Aussie system has bitten the dust...
I have spoken to Mike Sanders (owner/designer) a few times since I bought them a couple of weeks ago. One thing I liked was that he is conservative in terms of design so that the end user will not have some of the typical tube gear headaches.
He could have pushed their power to double their 25 watts, but then tube failures would be more common. Some of today's tubes are not very robust.
This is in contrast to my new Rogue Atlas, which I also love. It's a more "maxed out" design and requires tubes that can handle more than 500 volts. I'm on my third set of output tubes in two weeks. The first two sets each popped/flamed out a tube about 30 seconds after power up. Set one was the supplied JJ KT-77's. Set two was a new quad of mid-90's vintage E34L Teslas ($cheap/crappy). I don't think either was up to the task. The set that's in there now, a new, matched Electro-Harmonix EL34EH quad is working well so far. Basically it does not pay to skimp on tubes.
25 watts per channel is not much, but it sounds like much more. I'm moving into an apartment soon so I will have mo need for the goliaths I also have.
I must be growing up!
Ahh, NO!
Tom
Have you spoken to them? This is NOT typical. Actually, Mike knows a little bit about this amp, too, as one of his Denver dealers, Ron Gold, also sells Rogue. They teamed up at RMAF to showcase both brands.
I spoke to Mark O'Brian about the first (KT-77) failure, but not the second (E34L) one. I shot him an email about that one yesterday. He did not have an answer for the KT-77 failure, nor should he.
The affected tube locations were different for the two "flame-outs". Had it occued in the same location, I would have suspected possible circuit troubles.
In this month's Stereophile, JA measured Atlas clipping at 101 watts (single channel driven) and 86 watts (both channels driven). That's driving EL34's very hard. The Atlas is similar to the VTL ST-85 in this regard.
I know from experience that the Tesla E34L (no longer produced by JJ in that form) was a weak tube. I popped some in a Marshall head in the mid 90's when it was selling for less than $45/quad. I don't think it can handle the estimated 525 volts. You get what you pay for.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I don't want to be popping tubes all the time.
... my Ambience Ribbons are quoted at 89dB and with a power rating of 100-150 w, my 18w Valvemark seems to work very well with them, and my room is not on the small side. When I use the Unison Research Unico P which if I remember correctly is a 50w amp, I hardly ever get the volume above 3.
This will get me a nice tweaky amp, allow another excuse to put the pre-amp back into the system, free up a shelf on the rack for the pre and put a bit a of money back into the bank.
It's good when equipment for listening does not break the bank. You seem to have looked at every angle of this one. I wish I was as sensible. I buy stuff and worry about whether it is at all useful weeks' later!
I'm using the Tannoy Eyris DC-3 (89 dB@1W/1m) with my minis using the 4 Ohm tap. They are rated at 8 Ohms nominal but I'm sure they are really at least 6 or below. I'm satisfied with the match and there is still more headroom for when I wanna rock.
Try a set of Sovtek 6L6WXT+ tubes. New Sensor claims they have 20% more output than their 5881's or other sixes. About $55/matched quad. They have surprising low frequency extension. I never expected it. The deep organ pedals on "Selling England by the Pound" come through as deep and tight as with my big solid state amps.
I have told my friend I'll have them. He'll actually have them in 2-3 days so I should get them after next weekend sometime I guess.
It'll give me a few days to set up a couple of amp stands.
Cool.
or people!
I have never had a cage round any of my tube gear and never had a problem although I have been aware that TC the gangsta cat might decide that they were suitable for spraying which might have very bad or worse consequences for the amps for me and for him.
What does Freddy have to say about that?
Actually just this morning I have found a stain on my Valvemark... which luckily for everyone concerned wasn't on at the time!
I will have to fit screen doors to keep him out.
He is really in the mood for moving in at the moment.
Fred doesn't really seem to mind too much but Ginger (the Ninja) will go at him and chase him out whenever she sees him inside.
Freddie now concentrates on the white cat from the house behind (now known as The Face Of Evil) which is the aggressor in most all the fights round here.
As she is a rescued laboratory experimented on cat she is not the most socialised of creatures...
are the true kings of the cat families. More territorial and better hunters too.
Svelt, 6 pound Miss Abigail has caught two mice this winter that probably snuck in when I was taking out the trash and left the door open.
24 pound Jakey the Clown Cat is not at all fat, but let's put it this way: Without Fancy Feast he would starve to death.
Nice reliable amps. You can run any 6LG based tube (KT-66, 6L6, EL34,6550,KT-88, etc). Like most, if not all QS amps, the mids are very nice. A bit soft on the frequency extremes in comparison to others, but its flexibility in power tubes makes it a tube roller's delight. There are very few amplifiers, tube wise that can match the reliability of a Quicksilver.Stu
I agree.They are very musical and practically indestructable.
(I can say this from experience since yesterday I inadvertantly plugged in a 6l6 where the center pin had broken off-as you can imagine this was practically a random seating- and the aamp is fine)
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