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I receive some vintage tubes today. Some are from late 1940's and some early 1950's. Testings are all strong. The only problem with them are the pins have been heavily oxide coated over time. I believe they have been put in machines and just sat there (not been used) for decades. Does anyone here try any chemical ways to clean out the oxide without eroding or damaging the pins? I know sand paper is a solution but it's kind of unefficient and sometimes hurt the pins.
Follow Ups:
I use the rectangular erasers like we used to use in school. For smaller input-type tubes I cut off the beveled end of the eraser so I have a nice square surface to work with, then I stick the pins one at a time right through the eraser on the squared-up end. When the eraser's end gets grunged up I cut an 1/8" or so off of the eraser to expose a fresh surface.For larger power-type tubes I cut 1/8" or so slices off of the end of the eraser and use the slices to get in between and behind the pins.
Silver polish, and a small (cup type) rotory type electric toothbrush.Then clean with isopropanol.
Jack
Several years ago I followed a thread here on this subject, and several people recommended using an eraser that looked kind of like a pencil but had fiberglass fibers bundled up where the graphite "lead" would be. I saved a link to a company that sold these, but failed to transfer this to my new computer.Does anyone remember this? It looked like a solution that did not leave a residue like DeOxit and removed mininal if any actual metal from the pins.
RTBarr
I bought one recently from MCM Elecrtonics. Refills available too.
Made in the USA. I have one of those. I bought it for $5.99 at Fry's a few years ago (still have the package). Refills are available - Philmore part number 12-440.Can't find an on-line link for where you can buy this though.
Regards,
Geoff
Looked around the electronic component section for a while and could not find it. I was lucky that one of the sales guy knew what it was and found it for me in the section where they stash magnifying glasses and regular tools like screwdrivers, wire cutters, etc.FrankC
polishes them up nicely.
works perfectly but rinse well.
I too use Tarn-X and find that it works fine. I prefer chemical cleaning to mechanical cleaning like wire brushes or sandpaper. It is good advice you gave to rinse well. I usually remove the Tarn-X by swishing the pins in some alcohol then blow drying with my wife's hair dryer on the "cool" setting.
roN
I use Tarn-X too. I almost posted before you, but I got cold feet. Why?If the pins are unplated steel (as many miniature pins are), Tarn-X does exactly nothing.
If the pins are tin plated, Tarn-X works a treat, but you have to be effing careful. If the pins are not in the stuff long enough, there's still a lot of krud on them, which is now impregnated with Tarn-X. If you leave them in there a little too long, it will eat the tin plating right off the wee beasties !
So-o, Tarn-X is rilly kewl stuff, but it it is incredibly active chemically, meant for nearly pure silver (they tell you on the bottle not to use it on tin, brass, anything else that contains base nonferrous metals), so if using it on this stuff, you got to be super aware as the operator. Also, as you said, rinse in very soapy very hot water very thoroughly. It's been verified by guys more certified than me that it's electrically idiosyncratic. It will screw with your signal.
I still use it, mind you. In the right circumstance, it's miraculous.
Aloha,
Poinz
then thorough rinse, finally with distilled. I also swish them around in my Branson ultrasonic cleaner (distilled). I change the water even if there is the slightest contamination. I'm real anal when it comes to things like pc board contamination, etc.
Most of my pc boards have been through the cleaner. I do prefer de-ionized when I'm not too lazy to order a case. Most of that goes into the humidifiers. Winters are dry here, about 15% RH.
stay away from Deoxit, there is increasing evidence that this stuff will leave a hard varnish as it ages, and that the varnish can only be removed by hard physical sanding, it is especially bad for tube pins as the pins will get hot to a degree due to the tubes getting hot, and that accelerates the conversion of the oleic acid, which is the compound of Deoxit, to a varnish hard coating. Do a search here and learn about it, I like the lemon juice suggesion...
You can try scrubbing with a STIFF nylon toothbrush dipped in lemon juice. Lemon juice contains citric and ascorbic acids. Neither acid is strong enough to quickly attack metal, but oxides are attacked. Also, citrate is a good complexing agent, which helps the dissolving action, and ascorbate is vitamin C, which reduces ferric ions (rust) to the ferrous state.After the lemon juice scrub, rinse with water and wipe dry using a cloth moistened with anhydrous isopropanol. Additional treatment with either DeOxit or high temperature ProGold is OK.
Eli D.
Second the recommendation on lemon juice. I got this idea originally from a post here some time ago by Tubemonger and thought I'd give it a try. I have always been skeptical of any cleaning method that could possibly end up removing metal from the pins, ie wire brushes, sand paper or (God save us) Dremels. Dremels are nothing but a FAST way to make a BIG mistake. I tried Tarn-Ex, but the fumes were really bad. After I saw the post by Tubemonger, I bought a bottle of generic lemon juice and tried soaking some nine-pin tubes for 48 hours to see what happens. This stuff really works! All the grungey brown crud was gone, leaving just the naked color of the steel pins, which, after a thorough bath with fresh water, looked brand-new after a treatment with ProGold GX5 on some Q-Tips. Highly recommended!
although i'm sure it works well. I'm not that patient.
Get rid of the Pro Gold. I had lots of problems with it.
Now I use an extremely thin film of Mobil 1 0W-30. Nothing protects metals better ($6.00 qt.) and it can take the heat, unlike any of the Caig products, which are expensive too.
"Get rid of the Pro Gold. I had lots of problems with it."Of course you will. Look at the temperature ratings of that (now superseded) product. The current "low temp" product is good for 240 C (about 470 F), but the old Pro Gold wasn't. The Gold GXL he's using is good to 310 C (about 590 F).
"Now I use an extremely thin film of Mobil 1 0W-30. Nothing protects metals better ($6.00 qt.) and it can take the heat, unlike any of the Caig products, which are expensive too."
DeOxit D-5 works very well, and it is good to 200 C (about 400F). If you want to use the synthetic oil go ahead - but to say the Caig products can't take the heat is incorrect. The RIGHT Caig product takes the heat very well. I've used D5 on THOUSANDS of tubes. No trouble.
Nor would I. I know about the newer higher rated version. The problem with it and De-oxit is their long term stability. I would never use either on anything. They are both a rip off.
I'll bet you $1,000 right here that Mobil 1 is chemically superior to either in every known way. That's right. We are talking about metal protection, not forming varnish, which D5 is well proven to do over time. G5 reacts with certain alloys/base metals. Some people like the green color though. I'm getting the feeling you spend more on contact potions than protection for your engine!
Tube pins do not need corrosion protection. In 40 years I have never seen a corroded tube pin. Who would use one if it was corroded anyway?
What they do benfit from is lubrication. High insertion forces can lead to premature failure of printed circuit board traces/pads and sockets. Put 2 drips on a Q-tip, let it soak in and then lightly brush the pins with it. I do not always do this because I'm too lazy, but I should.
I do clean and polish certain jacks/connectors with Mobil 1 and have for years. I went back to it after suffering expensive damage from both D5 and G5.
Use what you want. I don't care. Just trying to save others the grief I experienced.
If it will protect multi-million dollar race engines made from exotic alloys operating at extreme temperature and stress, it will surely protect your precious connectors.
I added the last part to help you understand.
Disclaimer: I do not work for Mobil, but I once did.
"The problem with it and De-oxit is their long term stability. I would never use either on anything. They are both a rip off."Bull. I've (and many others) used it for years on thousands of applications and I've NEVER had any trouble. A rip off? I think not. One can of DeOxit will last months, the cost per application is VERY small.
"G5 reacts with certain alloys/base metals."
Prove it. I don't believe you. Nor do many of the large companies that use it in industrial applications.
"Some people like the green color though. I'm getting the feeling you spend more on contact potions than protection for your engine!"
You remind me of the guy here years ago that insisted DeOxit dissolved the glass tube seals around the pins.
"Tube pins do not need corrosion protection."
BWAAAHAAHAAHAAHAA!! You MUST be joking, right, and I didn't get the joke. There is no way you can be serious, no way!
"In 40 years I have never seen a corroded tube pin."
You CAN'T be serious. You can't expect anyone who works with tubes to believe that statement. Why don't you come over right now and look at the 100's of corroded pins on the NOS tubes I haven't cleaned yet - many new in the original boxes.
Why do you suppose people are posting in this thread?
"Who would use one if it was corroded anyway?"
Right - if there's some green corrosion on that NOS Mullard long plate I always just toss them in the trash.
"I went back to it after suffering expensive damage from both D5 and G5."
Prove it! Did you report it to Caig? Did you file a claim with them for the damage? Did you ask them to reimburse you for your loss?
You make a lot of wild claims, you don't substantiate them, you say you've never seen a corroded tube pin (??) - and you expect us to believe it?
"If it will protect multi-million dollar race engines made from exotic alloys operating at extreme temperature and stress, it will surely protect your precious connectors."
Oh, right. The applications are so similar. Why don't you use an anti-seize compound, it has even higher EP lubricant properties. Just dip the pins in some nice Permatex silver Anti-Seize compound, it'll work great.
BTW, I thought the purpose of a lubricant was to PREVENT metal to metal contact - if that's true (and I think it is) why would you use a product designed to eliminate the very contact that you need? I'll wait for my answer...
"I added the last part to help you understand."
Ahh, the mark of a true believer - the parting shot!
"Disclaimer: I do not work for Mobil, but I once did."
And what did you say to people who claimed Mobil 1 leaked out of their engines when conventional oils didn't? It's true, Mobil 1 made your engine blow up. I know, 'cause I knew a guy whose best friend's brother heard about it from his uncle's next-door neighbor...
Geez...
Jim McShane
Asylum Sponsor
Seller of 1000s of Tubes
25 Year Member - Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE)
...if you want high temp stability and chemical inertness the logical choice is Krytox.
b
Regards,
Geoff
Hi ,
Try using a fibreglass pencil to remove the oxidisation , after that push into hard polystyrene to remove the gunk and polish clean with a cottonbud dipped in isopropynol . An alternative method is to find a swarf pot-scourer and use this instead . Wire brushes can leave scratches , acid can remove plating . Fibreglass pencils are far gentlercheers
Get a small fine wire brush....size of a toothbrush--from a hardware store. Works great. After brushing/scrubbing off any deposits, then spray pins with Deoxit and wipe dry with cotton rag. Presto.
2
Are there any chemical matter like hydrochloric or sulfuric acid can be used to break down the coated oxide? The problem with acids are they may erode the metal pins at the same time and operating of them are very dangerous. I know some tube dealers decompose oxide by electrolyzing. It may be the best way (both efficient and resultful to refurbish tube pins. Any ideas of these?
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