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In Reply to: Here what I did. posted by cheap-Jack on February 19, 2007 at 07:58:26:
'found the lowest dip is about 10R across the 20Hz to 20KHz spectrum'That doesn't seem right . Re of 10 ohms would be a nominally 15-16 ohm speaker . What model is it ? If your Kefs are like the Cadenzas I used to have , impedence dropped to a minimum of 4.8 ohms , the drivers on their own had Re of 4.5 ohms making it an overall 6-8 ohm load .
cheers
Follow Ups:
Hi.You did not read it right: I said I "rebuilt" & "bi-wired" it.
All your assumption is wrong as it is no longer a KEF technically.
It was a Celest, rated 8R. But its lousy aluminum dome tweeter rang like hell so I replaced it with the much much more musical sounding Norway SEAS midrang-tweeter with 1.5" impragnated soft fabric dome diaphram, rated 4-8R, 91dB/m with pretty flat & smooth response from
1.5Khz - 15KHz.The goddamed micky mouse X-over was a cheapie joke, so I modified it to bi-wiring (which has improved the sound big bigtime), & replaced all the tiny 'lytic caps with huge non-polar PP film caps, & rebuilt it on a large fibreglass PCB to provide abundant copper surface to carry large currents. Only the tiny traces of copper gapped in between current carrying copper conducting surfaces were etched out to provide the necessary insulation.
To avoid vibrating which most X-over networks suffer bigtime when installed inside the air-turbent cabinet, I have the large X-over PCB installed outboard in a plastic box (non-magnetic), located just behind my power amps, floated on the floor with semi-rigid foam lifter. Nothing taken for granted.
This also serves as DISCRETE bi-wiring application.
I actually measured the speaker systems impedance. NO guessing like you.
c-J
Hi ,
What model was it ?cheers
Hi.it was a Celeste? As I said clearly it is technically no longer a KEF after I rebuilt it.
BTW, do you have a formula/software to calculate the mean effective impedance of a speaker system given its impedance chart?
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