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Sorry to get away from the name calling and back to SET related issues. I would appreciate any experience you might have with driver tube and output transformer choices for 10Y and/or 50 output tubes.
Follow Ups:
John H. built one 50 amp and I have it. It's a 6sl7(or 717a)/26/45. Apparently the 6sl7 and 717a are direct substitutes for each other. Right now I have 6sl7's in it and I have not tried 717a's.It's the best outdoor amp I have ever heard and that is where I am using it. I would describe the 50 amp as a glorious sounding tube. Every instrument sounds so full like it is right there in the space. It just sounds so good that I think my neighbors in this inner city enviroment have to be saying to themselves: "how does something sound that good?" It just sounds really, really good in the open space.
The amp represents John's facination with the pentode tube and continued interest in the 26 tube with probably your encouragement by providing him with the 50 tubes? It's probably the same principle that seems to work with the 6sn7 as a first driver. The first tube provides a base of bloom, the 26 refines it in, articulates it, adds a certain piece to the sound especially noticable in the horns, and then the output tube delivers the final sound. The 50 tube is just a rich tube, seems like from 'glorious' days of sound.
This is probably meant for the outdoors which is probably the best(and original) enviroment for sound/music.
I would go only with the webster opts, but high-end opts probably could sound real good too. I wouldn't put junk in an amp like that, just because a 50 amp is a unique thing, and you really do want to try to reach its glorious sound.
The 10y tube, I had once locked into its unique characteristics, but I have subsequently lost track of it. I don't have any amps that I can say optimize the tube.
The 50 requires a grid resistance of no more than 10K ohms, which is easily met with an interstage transformer or a grid choke. Using RC coupling is a challenge, since driving the 10K resistor to 84 volts peak (maximum conditions) takes nearly 1/2 watt even staying entirely in class A1. Allow some margin in the driver, and it's a 1-2 watt amplifier on its own.The 10 is very different, three type 10s in parallel would be similar to a single type 50. (I have not seen the 10Y rated for anything but RF use.)
(replaced with edited version 7:30PM - class A1, 1-2 watts)
Hi, my Set Utopia Audio VT-25 have drivers 6SN7 GT, OPT 9,5 K. I believe that in the Web site it is the circuit, good lucks MR
My Sun VT-25 has a 6SN7 cascade circuit with 8k Primary Z and local neg. feedback.
50 can also be used with grid choke and 5k tap. I also lower the cathode resistance and switch off neg. feedback.Rob
I know that jub jugs will tell you to use the 46. I haven't personally tried this, but he's very enthusiastic about it.The 31 might be a good contender - very nice sound. Some other DHTs with more robust characteristics for drivers include 71A and maybe 26 or 12A.
You should get better sound out of a DHT as driver.
...what can I say, I think it's great!
I'll agree... It makes a wonderful driver.dave
Could you describe the heater supply and op. points you like for the 46?Thanks
Usually I run at 25mA/250V or so. For heaters, I would definitely go with DC filaments for use as a driver. Some sort of CCS type supply, e.g. Tentlabs/Ronan-reg., etc. is best. Preferrably, choke load or transformer couple.Cheers,
Pete
Where are these filament current regulators available (or where can I find the schematics)?
for driving 45, 2A3, 300B, etc.I tend to prefer the 801 or globe 10 to the 10Y. They also work well for linestage duties.
Later
D
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