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I am looking for a new amp to drive Lowther horns via passive TVC preamp, for mostly large orchestral music- Mahler, Bruckner, Katchurian, and some classic rock, Zep,Stones, Dead...I've been eyeing Wright mono 8s, Welborne's DRD, and Fi X3, but have not heard them, Ive heard wrights and Fis other products and Welbrne solely on reputation.
Follow Ups:
Another 300B SET amp you might consider (if you don't mind losing the pre and using an integrated) is the Jolida JD300B. The retail is around $2200 but you should be able to secure one for around $2K or a demo for a bit less. I have one running a pair of Klipschorns and am really pleased with the sonics. The build quality is very nice and it responds well to tube swaps. I'm currently running EH gold grid 300B's and NOS Tungsram driver tubes. The power is 8-9 WPC and the amp has both 4 & 8 ohm speaker outputs. This may be heresy but what I really like about it is the remote control - very few SET's come with a full-function remote.
If you are considering the possibility of building a kit then I would recommend looking at the Audio Note Kit1 in either 300B or 2A3 form.I build the PQ Signature version of this kit but it may be a little for your budget although the standard signature version is under 2K.
I show mine being built on my website so you should get a pretty good idea if you're up to the DIY job.
I also build a couple more of their kits there too.
Try the diyhifisupply's LadyDay+ 300B. I have had the older Ladyday 300B driven with 6SL7 triodes in mu mode with gridchokes and the newer LadyDay+91 300B driven by WE310A pentodes. I use a S&B TX102 Mk II TVC for both and they sound great and sublime. I do not have Lowthers but use single driver speakers and they work great.
Here's the link for the amp:http://www.diyhifisupply.com/diyhs_ladyday.htm
Addicted to Tubes
The Cheer 300B integrated amp ($1800) I heard at the Los Angeles Vacuum Tube Valley show earlier this year produced the best sound I've heard at both that show and the HE2006 show down the street. Along with Don Allen's 300B design, it brings forth a transparency one would normally associate with a 45 design.
I think a 2a3 based amp should be ok with the lowther.
I have the wright(s) 3.5. They are very good with AER drivers
but need a pre (wright pre for instance)- not a passive (i tried).
Good luck.
Your email doesn't seem to be working
I think the Bottlehead Paramount can be wired for 2A3 or 300B.Has an excellent repupation, but I haven't heard one.
300B is.... well......With Lowther Horns, you have plenty of sensitivity to work with.
I really think the 2a3 is a more sonically refined tube.I build ALL (except for sources)of my own gear, and can make
whatever I want. I just see zero to gain by 300B except more expense
and only 2-3 (in the real world) more output. The 300B really does
not like to make more than about 6 (clean) watts --inspite of all the
BS claims about 10-Watt output 300B SETs out there. with 2a3 you
can afford to play with various tube brands if desired.
I would think (have not heard them) the Fi-2a3 and Sun Audio sv-2a3
would be almost sure-fire bets, and be likely to hold their value/
desirability very well through time as well.Anyhow, just something to consider.
Good luck.
-T.M.
add the Bottlehead Paramount (kit) to the list.~$1150 for the (pair) basic kit and then put in ~$200 worth of upgraded caps (0.1uF V-cap teflon for interstage coupling and 3.3uF silver-in-oil Mundorfs for output (parafeed) coupling).
I cannot check the Bottlehead site from work (slightly risque pictures) but check (my) posted comments on the product page as well as a speaker manufacturer's (I think he uses a pair of Lowthers in each cabinet, one upward-and back-firing).
I cannot say these are better than any or all of the above, but the speaker manufacturer seems to think so ...
Really, all of their equipment are amazing performers. And the company has rock solid customer support and forum particpation.I cannot say these are better than any or all of the above, but the speaker manufacturer seems to think so ...
Well, that's definitely open to interpetation, but.... who's counting, anyway?
Those are what , and many others, consider three of the best performance values in SET audio. All the makers are true artisans in the minimalist camp of design. But, their performance really is stellar.I have the Welborne DRD 300B monos and use an S&B TVC, the combination is heavenly. So sonically pure and transparent that it is haunting at times. I don't get to listen to my system as much as I did last year, but from the first few seconds, I am constantly blown away with hwo good the TVC+DRD combo sounds.
The only thing you have to make sure is that your source(s) have a high enough voltage output and low enough impedence. My upgraded Museatex Bitstream dac puts out 3V@300ohms, plenty to drive any amp SET amp I've come across. But, my Gram Slee Era Gold mkV phono preamp has a max output of 1.08V. No problem with my Art Audio PX-25 amp's 0.7V sensitivty, but cutting it pretty close with the DRD's 1.5V sensitivity.
the differences in sound between the Art Audio Px25 and the DRD 300Bs?
I think that would be very interesting if you could share with us
I'm not sure I can authoratively answer that question. I bought my Art Audio used with ~1,400 hours on the PX-25's, that's supposedly in the last 10% of their useful range. They sound great to me, but I have never heard new PX's, so there's no way for me to know what I'm missing.The DRD's, in my system, are extremely, extremely, neutral. Tonally, almost none of the tell-tale 300B flavor that is so readily recognizable in most amps. Yes, it does have great midrange, but it's not like the ultra-lush approach that I experienced with a Cary SEI integrated. In my opinion, Cary and Welborne almost exhibit the polar extremes of 300B SET sound. If music were fabric, Cary's approach would be deep velvet and DRD's fine silk.
It doesn't seem that the DRD's favor or emphasize any particular region of frequencies. They are very balanced with great extension at both ends. Instruments like cymbals, bells, and triangles ring out, shimmer, then decay properly. Wood instruments and vocals have proper body and weight. And bass seems to reach very low. With the right speakers, it can be surprisingly tight and powerful.
But, to me, what the DRD's special trait is their nearly holographic presentation. Spatial cues are hauntingly real. Coupled with great focus and imaging, it can be a hypnotic experience.
To me, the PX-25 seems to have a more vibrant presentation. Not more lush or bright, more vivid, if that makes sense. I'll borrow an appropiate quote from a professional PX-25 review - it's "as if notes are lit from within". Also, the leading edge of notes have more attack which makes things sound more alive or less laid back than the 300B's. Perhaps this is just part of it's vividness. But, don't interpet this to mean that it has an edginess because it doesn't at all.
I recently had a chance to hear a 2A3 amp and a 45, a first for me. I think the PX shares a lot of their fine focus and imaging. More so than the 300B, but not up to the level of those other two.
The AA PX-25 seems to have greater low frequency grip and power. Of course, at 3.5x the price it should.
I wish I could say that one is better than the other, but their character is so different that I consider both a must-have. The DRD's are a must because, to me, they present a sound of 300B's no other amp I've heard even got close to. Instead of the usual over-ripe, heavyhanded approach, they are incredibly transparent and neutral. Beautiful sound.
The PX-25 is sublime. It has a hint of the greatest attributes from the 45 and 300B with it's own twist on things.
Both will be in my system for a very, very, long time.
I have the same stuff...DRD300Bs fed by S&B MKIII TVC (0 gain configuration) fed by a tda1541a nos dac with tube output stage. The Dac puts out 2V and about 80 Ohms and no problem with volume/gain.FWIW, I also play movies through this system using a cheapo DVD that has Zout of 10K ohm at 2vRMS via 3 meter cables...still no problem.
You cannot go wrong with any of these amp suggestions. The DRD offers a very neutral presentation (not warm and muddy). It has tighter bass than my previous 35 watt EL34 push pull.
Hi have been looking for dacs with less than 100 ohms and tube with that chip sounds sweet
cheers
I think he is onto version 3...a different output stage. But if he still has the DAC board, you could build your own tube buffer. Its a 6dj8 SRPP rectified by EZ80. If the IV resistor value on the Dac board is set at 47 Ohm, you get 2.2V which is sufficient to drive my Welbornes that have 1.5v sensitivity. The thing is, the tda1541 likes to work into zero ohms..so by lowering the IV resistor to say 22 ohm the voltage drops to less than 1v :(This is why I may look at a 6c45 stage...I can live with higher Zout.
has not been an easy one
m
No it has not been an easy one....especially for a first time board level project. Cardinal Rule #8: Don't attempt a first build when the builder doesn't speak Chinese and the designer doesn't speak English...and there are no instructions. Aside from the build frustration, it's a beautiful dac.
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