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Any of you care to recommend a pro amplifier for horn subwoofer? my subwoofer is a 18" Precision Device in a horn loaded enclosure, any suitable amplfier? sound quality is more important than maximum spl.
Follow Ups:
will a pro-amp with high power rating be better than let's say a 100-watt tube amplifier for this application? room is only approx 50 sq meter or 500 sq feet, and will listen to moderate to loud levels with all kinds of music from pop, jazz, techno/trance, dance, vocals, classical etc.. my room is heavily damped and will absorb a huge amount of bass, is a 800-watt QSC PLX amp have better bass sound than a 100-watt push-pull tube amp?
Something like a Hafler with tons of current and a high dampening factor will work well. You need current, and you can get that from tubes, but the $/watt are not usually very good (to say the least).
I used these for pro use and had many compliments. Look for the trans-nova designs.The QSC isn't bad, either.
If you aren't getting good bass in the room, as suggested by the previous follow up, (test this by going outside and listenting for better bass outside than inside)you'll need to play with positioning the subs near a corner on the floor. You can also spend a little bit for a parametric EQ to make better use of the power you have (the Bose approach).
Given that the wavelength of 40hz is 28.1 feet at sea level, you may have more problems than just buying an amp.
Tom
It depends on how hard the sub and amp need to work. If it's in a big dance club, you'll be hitting it hard; if it's in an intimate wine bar, it'll hardly know it's working. Going out on a limb, since it's a horn loaded system, in a small space you'll want to look at low output performance (e.g., maybe class A up to 15 or 20 watts); but for a large space and high output, I'd be more concerned with stability and thermal issues. Crown, EV, Parasound, QSC, and Yamaha (in alphabetical order) and others are potential candidates.
My Dodge hemi gets better mileage at 65 than it does at 55.
Liken that to a speaker. There is going to be a sweet spot in the power rating, where the speaker couples with the box wonderfully and gives you the sweet boom boom you crave.Speakers are rated at a sensitivity, a continous rating, and a max.
You want an amp that is roughly 1.5 times the continuous rating.
Underpower the speaker and you'll think the amp is crap.
Overpwoer, and replace the speaker.Any modern pro amp will do you. Figure the proper SPL, etc.
QSC PLX, Crown, Lab Gruppen, Digam, are all good choices.
Tom
I have always found better performance from any sub with
high current amplifiers
No matter what output you want a high current amp will yield
you better performance with any sub /pro/ or home
Well, how much power do you want for it? What's its impedance?
impedance is 8ohms and have no idea how much watts are needed for a chest thumping bass in a 20 x 30ft living room with 11 ft ceiling.
nt
"Polarities are seldom aware of their polarness." Prospero
The standard for rating how efficient a loudspeaker plays is to send a tone into the driver with 1 watt, and measure the response at 1 meter. This measurement give you the Sound Pressure Level (SPL) at 1 watt/1 meter.
Once this is known, every time you double the power, you can add 3db SPL. Up until the speaker frys from power.Efficiency ratings are inportant since, if you know how loud the speaker can play with adequate power, you can figure out how loud it is going to sound in the room. This calculation is called the iverse square rule, where every time you double the distance away from the speaker, you lose 6db.
For instance:
Speaker plays 99db @ 1w/1m
Speaker can deal with 700w peak
You give the speaker 512w
So the speaker is playing @ 129db at 1m with 512w.
That means 100' back in the room, the speaker is producing 99db
That should get you through your rock show.
But people next to the speakers will suffer ...
Tom
....to give me some idea of the driver's efficiency. Thanks Ray
"Polarities are seldom aware of their polarness." Prospero
.
Tom
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