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Hi All:Just got a CD burner in my PC. Now would like to see how this copying thing can produce a better result than the original.
1. What are the black CD-R's that folks mention as the best to use?
2. I assume copying is done from the original CD to the HD and then from the HD to the CD-R?
3. Isn't slower burning speed best (ie 4X)?
4. Which kind of CD-R, ie CD-RW, etc. is the best kind of media to copy to?I plan on treating the original and blank copy w/demag and at least colored pen for the edges. Any ideas about my q's above? Any advice?
Thanks,
Larry
Follow Ups:
been there, done that.save time and go PC all the way.
I used MAM-Gold ProStudio. Great stuff. Luckily times of burning CDs
are over since everthing remains now on the HD. No more hassle!Black CDs avoid laser reflections. That's why they sound better.
Reflections are causing less precise realtime read-out.
There were times I painted all edges etc. black on my Gold Cds.
This had a similar effect adding on to the positive gold-effect.Anyhow - That's not the whole story . - Be careful about the drive!!
Key to well produced CDs is the drive itself.
SO - You'd look better after a Plexwriter Premium 2, instead of wasting your time and money burning your disks with poor drives!
There are not very many drives out there, which come close to the plexwriter.
KLS
sorry, forgot a few q's.I copy to HD & then burn. If you have 2 disc drives i don't think you have to do this.
Slower speed may be best, dunno. I've tried to listen for difference & its easy when comparing a 1x to a 48x...between that though - dunno. I copy at 24x & burn at 16x usually. Rule of thumb: don't use the slowest setting for your drive, go one or 2 speeds higher. Some folks feel there's a correct speed for every drive, you just gotta burn the same material at all speeds and listen...dunno if worth the effort though! the CD-r may have a lot to do with this too. high speed cd-r don't like slow speeds, not engineered for that.
Don't put a colored pen to your cd's or cd-r. I've been taking a small corner of sandpaper to the edges, and this works. What you are trying to do is reduce the surfaces that reflect light. Some have recomended a light sanding to the outer edge and also the spindle hole. However, if you pre-treat & use good quality CD-R in a working machine, you shouldn't need to address this concern - in my opinion from experience.
Hey larry,Many folks like the Memorex or Pro Disc black CD-r...both are cheap in spindles of 50 or 100, about 20 cents each. I use Taiyo Yuden or when i have the $, MAM-A Golds. The TY's are 25 cents each and MAM-A's usually $1. www.shop4tech.com or www.rima.com
If you want incredible burning software, download the free trial of Alcohol 120%. i used it and REALLY liked it, though i haven't paid the $40 for the actual software yet. EAC is the norm for ripping.
I use Nero for burning & it doesn't hold a candle to the sound quality of Alcohol 120%.difft types of CD-R's are only part of it though. as you know, you need to treat the blanks prior to burning. The Best product i've found is Mikrosmooth, but only when applied correctly. You'll reduce lots of jitter by using it right & your drives laser will work most effectively & efficiently. the key is keeping the yellow pad clean & moist + rinsing the discs before using MS. this way applying MS won't scratch or smear the optical face. I use the ionoclast, but you have the Clarifier which is probably better...
i can't help but think that putting clean & static free media into the drive will increase the useful life of the drive too.
a year or so ago i tweaked my home pc to make better music. In terms of burning & ripping you should try an upgraded cord going from the motherboard to your burner (assuming you're not using a laptop). www.granitedigital.com makes killer IDE cords for $30 or so.
last but not least, if using a home pc tower try a hi-end power cord on it. you'll hear the difference. Plus, if & when you go to an all HD based system, your pc will be ready to sing.
I schill for all the firms listed above, still waiting for my checks though :)
i've waxed poetic about these measures on other forums too, just do a search if interested.
matt
wait- I 'm a little confused.It sounds like you are trying to burn CD's of music that you actualy paid for, as opposed to downloading.
Couldn't that cause a fire?
Seriously though I'd like to hear more feedback on the Black CD's.
Here is where I learned of it
- http://www.genesisloudspeakers.com/whitepaper/White Paper on Black CDs ver 3.1.pdf (Open in New Window)
L,I was able to make CDs that I thought were improved over the original by ripping the original CD using EAC, and then burning on to black memorex cdrs. The Yamaha drive I had had a special feature called AMQ (Audio Master Quality)that spreads out the pits which they claim reduces jitter:
http://www.yamaha.co.jp/english/product/computer/handbook/audiomaster02.html
ANyhow, I liked the disks produced this better than the originals, and used them to rip back to the HD when I went with a PC based playback system. (Disks blow IMHO and are dying)
AMQ was very very slow, and I used the memorex black cdrs that were very affordble at the time.
I haven't had my system in a good enough room to set it up right, so I haven't been able to test to see if it was worth all the effort, and if just ripping the originals would sound just as good when playing back from the PC.
FWIW, you really should be spending your time going with a PC based system than burning better disks. Well at least in my case I started out trying to create a better mouse trap, and ended up getting rid of the mice (which are dying)!
Reminds me of when I was starting out with PC. I went and bought a bunch of Black Memorex CDRs thinking I was going to back up my collection on them and they sound better....Didn't take long for me to stop burning cdrs and replace my front end with my pc,.wav/.cue files and usb dac.
Methinks that You have started with a better mousetrap and bought the cat instead :-)You have successfully solved the mice problem, but the cat needs feeding...
Welcome to the beautiful world of PC upgrades :-)
The cat is getting fat.I am almost "there".
Foobar works and looks great these days. Crossover is implemented.
I only have a few things to do:
1. DRC
2. Decide if upsampled files sound better and if so create them for playback (on the fly is not an option for me with SRC)
3. Label my cue sheets with song info (yes, this COULD have been done automatically in eac, but I figure re-ripping will take longer, and it is not a huge deal if i never get around to this)
4. Create Lyric files and associate them to the right files. (Even if I had the internet connected and let the plug in do its thing, I would have to do this since the lyrics are ALWAYS wrong in my case due to an obscure collection)So, you can see that most of this is window dressing, and I may never get around to it, but it is sure nice to be able to do it.
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