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In Reply to: spade sizes posted by acres verde on March 9, 2006 at 15:13:44:
Do you mean what size "ring" connector, to go over the post on the inside of the chassis? If so, I recommend that you strip the wire and wrap it around the post, then tighten down the nut - use no connector at all. In my experience, ALL connectors rob some small degree of definition. In some particular situations I have verified this by listening tests. For example, Goertz speaker wire sounds much better if you throw away their silver connectors (or store them away in your spare parts bin) and instead strip the ribbon, cut a notch in it, and insert it directly under the contact nut in a Cardas speaker and/or amplifier binding post. (I've done this on both ends of my speaker wires.) But it's not just peculiar to Goertz connectors, which are actually among the better ones. The same approach works inside the chassis. It makes sense - ordinarily one would have wire inside the chassis going to a connector which goes to a binding post (inside) which goes to another connector (outside) which goes to wire again. Why not eliminate two of the middle men that are usually of suboptimal quality anyway?
Follow Ups:
I am having custom speaker wires made for my Duos which are outfitted with the 5 way WBTs. Of course, the M60s have the Cardas binding posts. The Wire Manufacturer has asked me to provide him with information regarding the proper size for spades that will properly fit the lugs of these two brands so that he can install the proper size spades on each end of the wires he's making for me.
So, if possible, tell him "no spades at all", assuming the nature of the wire is such that you can bend, twist, or otherwise manipulate it to fit directly under the outer nuts of the respective WBT and Cardas posts. Just have him strip the ends for you.If you simply must have spades, I think the Cardas post is about 1/4" diameter. Don't know about WBT.
Taking it one step further.How about drilling two appropriate holes under the chassis. Sanding the holes so as to not cut the wires over time. Inserting the wires through the hole, and connecting them directly to the internal binding post connection?. This will eliminate yet another connector.
Yes, could do that too. If we did not have to disconnect our gear occasionally, the optimum would be to hard wire everything together with no connectors in the pathway at all.
ALL cables were soldered--fono into preamp, preamp to poweramp, poweramp to speaker. That did make it inconvenient to move, so he didn't move it often.He introduced me to the sounds of speakercable lying on carpet v. NOT lying on carpet. He became Technical Director of 'The Absolute Sound', published his own hi-end-audio magazine for a while, and then regained his sanity and has been out of audio for a couple decades.
I solder speakercable to speakers...
...and have soldered IC (HomeGrown IC-4) to poweramps. Not only does it save money but it sounds a teeny bit better, too.
Lew, I am wondering if using a wire nut to connect the bare wire would be suitable (like the ones in electrical junction boxes). I was thinking of a way to bypass the binding posts and have a wire to wire connection and I happened upon this thread. What are your thoughts?
As long as you can keep the exposed surface area from touching any other metal surfaces.
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