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In Reply to: Re: Amen, brother! posted by wazoo on March 13, 2007 at 03:56:45:
W,Your MMgs look different than mine. (I have the 1st version, and it looks like the wires on your are "tied down" or come through the wood to connect.
The leads on the ones I have were free and easy to remove. If the new MMGS are like the ones pictured, I get why everyone is saying not to do it, or to ru-euse the stock clamp.
Look at this pict, aren't these different than the ones you have?
Follow Ups:
but they look pretty similar. The original post in this thread concerned SOLDERING directly to the panel runs - not a good idea. You didn't do that either, but you were pretty bold. In any case, I really don't see anything wrong with the screw-down connections for those runs. I did exactly what "ABliss" described - just seemed like the right thing to do when I took mine apart. The picture in my reply illustrated lifting the runs BEFORE doing any soldering (also shows the woofer tabs drilled (with a Dremel) for larger gauge wire).I'm not suggesting that you did something foolish - not at all. It's just not something I would recommend to most individuals. What I did was perfect for me since I was wiring up the "internal" crossover in this photo (taken before I made my braces or made better jumpers for the terminal strips). Of course, this all started as a little experiment that just kept mushrooming - now I'm ready to construct something more attractive. I'm satisfied with the sound of my MMGs raised and absolutely vertical (sorry PG), which is good because that's the only way I'm going to be able to put them "on top of" subwoofers.
I'm hoping to replace an aging (and it's beginning to show some signs) CRT TV later this year with a 42" or 46" 16:9 (either LCD or plasma). That means I'll have to build a new entertainment cabinet. I built our current one for the TV which is in it now and it simply won't work for anything else (it's pictured in the "Show us your Maggies" thread). I need more space for the other gear (you probably noticed that I had to make a little table for the SACD player) as well which means wider - hence there won't be enough floor space to have the REL next to the left MMG which is part of why I need to stack them.
Sorry for rambling...
Hey Wazzoo,I wasn't offended in the least. SOmetimes I wonder why I ever did it, but I am glad I did.
In any case, I really don't see anything wrong with the screw-down connections for those runs
Me neither for a normal user. BUt for a cable swapper or especially a bi-amper, the approach I took seems to work better. BUt I totally agree that for most what Abliss recommends is the way to go.
NOw, about your maggies. I don't think I was being clear. On mine the driver leads are lightly glued to the metal part ot the driver, and then are just routed to the terminals. But on the current generation that you pictured, it looks like the driver leads actually go through the wood to get to the terminal screws. Is this correct? Look at your photo then look at mine and you will see what I am talking about.
Said another way, can you do what I did with the new maggies?
The driver leads (panel runs, or whatever the proper term might be) are much the same as yours. The aluminum traces just looked so delicate that I wanted to disturb them as little as possible, and concerns about the "banana peel" syndrome made me feel the same way about the bass panel runs. So, I carefully "lifted" the runs before soldering new wires to the tabs.What you did was courageous! There's absolutely nothing wrong with reducing the number of connections in a chain - always a good thing. I'm glad it worked for you and you have the perfect setup for biamping (something I couldn't do because I just don't have anywhere to put another amp).
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