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i bought a pair of smga yesterday for cheap with 1 tweeter not working.replaced fuses and bypassed cap and still nothing.
so it looks like i have to tear into it which means it will all be apart.
at this point i may as well really tweak them. :)
all my other ob speakers have folded baffles to make them not so freakin wide.
im wondering if anyone else has done this with maggies and what if any differences were heard/measured.
i always treat the insides of the folded sections with either felt or some other damping/diffracting material.
but im thinking that i could easily get them to be a mere 12"wide vs the 23"wide that they are now.
the legs would have to go but thats not a problem as the bottoms of the rearward baffle sections get cut so that they support the speaker at the correct angle.
Follow Ups:
are you getting continuity through the tweeter wire?
corroded in numerous places.just finished stripping all the wire and glue and getting ready to lay down some copper 30awg enameled magnet wire from radioshack.
will probably do the other speaker tomorrow as im sure it is in just as bad condition.
so now it looks like i am just that much closer to rebuilding the pair of mg-1 i have in the garage.
1hr just to remove the wire and old glue !listening to some kd lang and everything sounds good.
got much better imaging after swapping left/right so that tweeters were on the inside.
dont know if i have it in me to rebuild that pair of mg-1 as just the tweeter rewire was enough of a little nightmare.
tweeter rebuld for smga, complete with pictures...
I think you will have some loss in bass response...not sure how much.
the resonant frequency of the folded baffle would be around 1khz if they were placed at about 12". perhaps it isn't the loss of bass, but the amplification of the resonant frequency of the baffle?
thick foam on the inside of the baffle may help. it may also lend some dispersion control of the back wave.
parallel but a bit angled ?seems that would smooth out any resonances trying to get going.
resonant frequency if there is no top or back ?i was also planning on making the side baffles either elliptical quadrants or tapering from the bottom to the top so that the very top would just be an intersection with the front so no depth at the top rear.
with a name like helmholtz im thinking you are qualified. :)
wherever the wave fits it will ring. since it's not inside of a box you can hear it pretty good. i'm pretty sure this is what others have run into. thick foam on the sides might help enough to make it worthwhile. what was the goal of this exercise other than making them narrower?
kind of freakin excercise !!!!!! lololololi saw them at the thriftystore and threw a tone generator on them and checked resistance and it all seemed fine.
i really did not need another project.
going to do the fuse bypass while im at it as i think the copper will be a bit less fragile than the aluminum.
speed of sound = 1130fps
1130fps/1 foot = 1130cps
so 1130hz for a full wave and 665hz for a half wave will fit perfectly in a one foot space at sea level
there are many acoustic absorbers with good performance in the 1khz range
better look inside first. folding wouldn't be that hard but getting them to work after you folded them might be.
folding the front baffle along the vertical axis on either side of the driver to form a topless/backless/bottomless 3-sided enclosure.otherwise known as a folded-open-baffle.
and if you were joking........... that would be pretty funny.
folks have tried different designs with varying levels of success. i would recommend setting "wings" where the folded baffle would be and give it a listen. maybe have someone move them around for you while you listen. the angle of the baffle might sound best unsymmetrical. thicker acoustic foam on the "wings" would make a difference too. i would love to hear the results of your tweak. sorry, i just couldn't resist the joke though.
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