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Cayin CDT-17A
Korsun V8i
McCormack DNA-2
Magnepan 1.6QR's
Monster Power Conditioning
Signal Cable Silver Reference speaker cables & interconnects
Zaolla Interconnects
Signal Cable Magic Power
Rane SAC-22 Active Stereo Crossover
I just got tired of the whole capacitor BS...trying to find the right caps for the right sound...ones that weren't too harsh or too soft, that took forever to break in...that didn't cost a kings ransom only for me to find I didn't like the way they sounded after all...So I got active:
I got a Rane SAC-22 active stereo crossover and disabled the passive XO in my 1.6QR's using 18ga silver wire from the upgraded vampire BHEX binding posts to the driver connections, and Silver solder. The Korsun V8i has unbalanced pre/main output/inputs...so I got some "Zaolla" balanced/unbalanced cables (ZRXF-3 & ZRXM-3) and ran the pre/out from the V8i into the input of the SAC-22, Low-out from the Rane to the V8i main in, and the Hi-Out from the Rane into my McCormack DNA-2 (The DNA-2 has balanced inputs so I could use fully balanced cables from the SAC-22 Hi-out to the DNA-2). Per the SAC-22 product page
"The SAC 22 employs state-variable 4th-order Linkwitz-Riley filter alignments to minimize phase difficulties in the critical crossover region. Simply put, a Linkwitz-Riley crossover exhibits identical phase characteristics on its Low pass and High pass Outputs. This characteristic guarantees in-phase outputs at all frequencies. In-phase outputs are mandatory for proper acoustic summing of common signals from adjacent drivers in the crossover region. An added benefit of this topology is steep 24 dB per octave rolloff slopes. A slope of this magnitude guarantees drivers designed to produce a specific range of frequencies, and no more, will not be driven past their limits, thereby minimizing distortion and driver fatigue"
...So when I did the surgery on the 1.6QR wiring I connected the tweeter and bass panel in phase (They are out of phase with the stock passive XO)...I double checked all connections, then set the crossover point on the SAC-22 to 600hz...and adjusted all the output levels as optimum...
All I can say is "Holy Sh*t"....
These Maggies opened up like a $800hr call girl (don't ask).
I always use George Michael's "Older" album as a test record because its probably one of the most well recorded pop albums I've ever heard. Needless to say, I know this record very well. I know where every instrument is and with the active XO, the staging was like I've never heard it before...there were so many other nuances that I've noticed before that I now could hear extremely well: the slight (smack) sound of his lips parting before each verse, stereo panning, and minute effects that were veiled by the passive crossover and all the parts in it. The midrange is even more magical now, and the bass is amazing. I started playing with placement,...and now I don't even need to turn my sub on (The SAC-22 has a sub-out I'll play with later on)!
The Cayin is a Tube output player (6922) that I modded myself with Mundorf Silver/Oil caps on the unbalanced tube output and I replaced all 6 OPA604 OPamps to AD825's),...anyway, I remembered I had some brand new Russian Cryo-MP SLNM 6922 tubes in my other player (Canary CD-100)...When I put those in the Cayin things got even better...the midrange was more holgraphic, and the bass tightened up just a tad more, but the high end was what really improved. Crystal clear yet velvety highs...I feel like I can listen to my stereo forever...I am getting so much more power and detail from my amps because of the frequency limiting that its amazing. If I had known that an active crossover made this big of a positive difference, I could have saved myself thousands spent on modding crossovers, buying exotic caps and inductors, etc...
Its been said before and I'll say it again:
The best crossover is NO crosseover at all...
Amen!
Follow Ups:
I am doing the same thing, but am using a computer based system for the crossover. Pcs are amazing as crossovers, and if you have the processing power, you can do just about any slope and frequency ( I have seen.That is with just free plug ins to free programs.
Lately, I have been thinking of getting a better crossover program like this one:
http://www.thuneau.com/products.htm
A poster at the PC audio forum who has the same pro card I do said that the pc crossover couldn't be bettered by his Marchand or the passives that came with the speakers.
I use an active two-way between my Maggies and subs. You better believe that if the unit I have was a three-way crossover I'd have at least tried it before modding my passives!Active seems like the way to go.
There is no other way to run these speakers. I have just gone active on the Magnepan 20.1s. No contest.
Hey, Gladstone
I also have 20.1's and am thinking about bi- or even tri-amping. How are you doing it? I think I'll start off using the Wolcott 280's on mid/treble with a Bryston on the woofer panels. Then maybe adding a sub if I don't get the results I want. Which active x-over are you using? What x-over freq (s) do you have it set at?Finally, have you done any other mods on your 20.1's? I did Al Sekela's choke mod on the tweeters and they seemed to help. I believe tha 20.1's should sound more dynamic. Maybe the fact that I live at 7000' (Colorado) has something to do with it.
I agree with Davey's sentiments. I was wondering if a 2nd order crossover (phase aligned) might not sound better and I would compare that to a simulation of the passive crossover. Unfortunately the Rane unit does not give you that flexibility. My suggestion would be to save up a few dollars and either get the Marchand XM-44 or a DSP unit (Behringer) so you could alter slopes and use asymmetric crossovers.
In any case welcome to the active biamp club.
I may be an egoist but at least I don't talk about other people.
A standard Linkwitz-Riley 4th-order slope crossover sums electrically to something quite a bit different than the stock crossover of a 1.6. Yes, you've made an improvement with regards to direct drive and all the benefits associated with that, but you've also changed the engineering of the system considerably as well. This should result in a noticeably boosted midrange. Time will tell if you ultimately like this tonal balance.It's just not as simple as removing the passive crossover and inserting active crossover...insert brand here...into the mix.
Cheers,
No it's not as simple, but you should always be able to get a "better" sound. In designing a passive crossover the engineer is limited by the impedance characteristics of the drivers themselves, often resulting in compromize solutions the produce audible artifacts in directional pressure or intensity response. Davey, you might be right in that those "artifacts" might be the defining nature of the loudspeaker's sound. with a flexible crossover/eq you can "restore" or even improve on the sound in the "Nice" realm before current amplification.
Well, passive crossover design for a Maggie is somewhat simpler than a conventional speaker because the impedances involved are resistive in nature. I wouldn't say a designer is "limited" by the impedance, but it certainly has to be incorporated into the design. For a line-level crossover you really don't have to consider it.Ultimately, the shape of the electrical slopes driving the transducers produces the final output. My point was that.....in the case of the 1.6.....the electrical slopes for the stock network are completely different than those produced by a generic active crossover with LR24 slopes. A comparison of active and passive in that case is really not valid. It's apples and oranges.
Cheers,
"Ultimately, the shape of the electrical slopes driving the transducers produces the final output."You need to keep in mind the acoustic output at the listening position. While the impedance may be flat, acoustic output is often not flat in the crossover region. If you look at the standard crossovers (particularly 2 ways), from an electrical standpoint, there would be a significant dip in the crossover region. However, this dip disappears at the listening position due to the acoustic output of the drivers. Creating flat frequency response either requires adjusting the crossover slopes or equalization (which would essentially accomplish the same thing- reducing output in the crossover region).
I am emphasizing "at the listening position" because of the dispersion characteristics of the panels, the dipole configuration and the fact that they tend to have significantly different response when close mic’ed.
When I started doing passive DIY crossovers, I didn't take output into consideration (just impedance curves) and they often sounded horrible. It took a lot of trial and error to figure out what I was doing and get them right.
Yes, obviously the electrical slopes may not sum flat....in fact they almost always don't. Unless some sort of generic crossover is used like mentioned in this thread. Sorry if I didn't make that clear enough in my statement.However, acoustic output should sum flat in the crossover region...at least on the design axis. However, as you noted, with large transducer speaker systems close miked measurements are not that useful.
It's possible that a designer might try to optimize for a more even off-axis performance at the expense of on-axis response, but you don't see that done very often.Cheers,
It constantly amazes me that guys will spend Hundreds of $$$ on expensive passive upgrades when going biamp with pedestrian equipment will cost the same or less and generate dramatic improvements. You can ask why doesn't magneplanar (or other manufacturers) offer a biamp option? Well if they allow their customers to pick amps and crossover settings it becomes a very complicated set-up procedure and the customer will risk blowing something up. That's why on the biamp tri amp products out there you also see the Amps included in the package. I thing with the newer products like the ICE amp modules that provide audiophile performance we will see some more BIAMP producs out there. However, only in the highend speakers $5K or better.Though the cost in quantities for the ICE modules are about $350 that means the manufacturer has to bump the price at least a couple kilobucks per speaker to offer a pair of them in a biamp configuration.
Maggie 1.6's Do have a bi-amp option on the input terminals. You can either connect to the highest (of the 3) for regular input, or choose, by taking the jumpers out of the lower 2 to bi-wire the hi and low frequencies.
Granted you're still working with the stock x-overs at this point.
Jon
aka (kiefer74)
These guys are making speakers without passives for the purposes you describe.
I use the Behringer ultradrive all the time...
"Once you go active you NEVER go back"!! :-))Re. "getting so much more power" ... the rule of thumb is that, compared to a single amp driving a passive XO, active equates to a single amp of TWICE the sum of the powers of the two amps.
Regards,
Does this include a pair of mono-blocks? I'm pretty sure I can (since I'm getting them upgraded right now) get two inputs in my amps if needed. Fortunately Rogue Audio iz very flexible on my needs, whatever they might be. In fact I'll be callin' Mark in just a few minutes.
So do I need 2 inputs on my amps (m-150's)?I need as much power as I can get. It's safe to say that I listen to most music much louder than the average 'audiphile' person. I want to get the most out of what I have (well, what I'm getting back) in terms of loudness without the loss of clarity, texture, depth, soundstage etc...
your thoughts?
Jon
You asked: "Does this include a pair of mono-blocks?"Well, yes! :-))
I have 3 monoblocks behind each IIIa (all the same make). Theire power specs are:
* 100w into 8 ohms on the bass
* 55w into 8 ohms on the mids
* 25w into 8 ohms on the ribbons.Which means I have the equivalent of a single monoblock with 360w (into 8 ohms) driving the passive crossovers.
Regards,
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