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IF those that have used it, is it still holding up?I've had a buzz in my right speaker for some time and realized it's time to do the voice coil relamination. Took the plunge and removed sock and wood sides from my MG.6. And found the "text book" pictures of the curling up wires on the ends of the panels. I've already removed the underlying "green crud" from the mylar with acetone and q-tips and now I'm unsure of my next (idiot proof) route. Of course if I botch it up too bad, I can always have Magnepan fix it for me.
Options:
1) Peter Gunn route with the DAP to hold wires down (Tweaks section) and then follow up with milloxane.2) ALEX route (Tweaks section also) with the power transformer to hold wires down....and so on...
3) Yet, someone else used a metal rod or allen wrenches to hold down the "banana curved" ends while the process dried. Seems easy enough, couldn't find if they still used the dreaded 3M77 spray or went straight to milloxane to adhere it.
What should I do?, definitely need to act quickly to order the milloxane since I read they quit shipping it Mid-Oct. Already took some pics with my dig. camera pre and post acetone cleaning if anyone wants to tell me I"m on the right track, shoot me an email and I can send pictures.
Any suggestions welcome from the "seasoned DIY'ers"
Follow Ups:
Many thanks to those that contacted me with suggestions for my repair. Mr. Peter Gun's DAP instructions were very clear.Results are a speaker with no buzzing. The DAP sets up rather quickly. Process is not hard, as long as you take your time and not get upset with the appearance of your work. Glad I did it. Now what will the saved $300+ (Magnepans fees) buy me?
Yes, my repair is still holding fine. It's DAP, it never comes undone, that's the good and bad part about it.But do not, DO NOT use Milloxane. It is a rotten product and it will dissolve the DAP and take everything with it. DO NOT USE IT. And certainly don't use 3m77. Just the DAP.
You're fine, I know it takes a leap of faith to do it, but it will work out just fine and even if it looks ugly, if the wires are laying were they are supposed to be they will sound as good as ever.
This is the time to stop thinking and just do it, and I guarantee you'll never have to fix those wires again, I promise.
Ok, I'm definitely in, but I realize it's PERMANENT. Peter, was the DAP tacky enough when you painted it on to hold down the curling. IF you have to do it again (on another pair), would you consider the battery or power supply to hold them down?Also, I've got them pretty clean from the acetone, but at some point I have to just stop on a wire path (as I'm constantly getting into the "good" section and it is coming unglued also) So far I've got maybe 30% more area now to glue down than the original amount that curled up.
Once the Dap painting gets started, what happens if the wires are slightly off their track- will the sound be affected?
Should I put a light coat over the whole speaker voice coil after doing the affected areas?
Thanks for the encouragement.
Actually permanent is good here, it's bad when using DAP in woodworking. There is nothing worse than spending time cutting out a large piece of veneer and trying to lay it down and have it go wrong. You screw that up, it's all over but the crying.I have not found heating the wires necessary until I got the used pair of MG-I's I bought from near the jersey shore. I listened to them in the guys house, they sounded fine, took them home and opened them and the wires damn near fell completely off. On a panel that big with that much off I had trouble. I only did them half way and stopped. I am probably going to have to redo what I did and do those by heating the wires. In fact, they are so bad I think I'll need to make a full panel jig.
However the very ends can want to stick up before the DAP sets good, so it might be worth a shot anyway. I never tried it, what do you do, hook a 6 volt dry cell up to it? I also don't know how quickly they sag, but obviously you'll want to perhaps try it before even putting the DAP on. Then you can lift them, DAP them, and heat em flat again. I usually also bend the wires to a near right angle to so I can clean right up to them and prevent the constant "back peeling" you are experiencing, and heating them would probably help ease them back down from this as they can get a kink there.
If you are generally between the magents you'll be fine, it doesn't need to be razor straight. You should try to be but don't sweat slight wiggles. In fact, it's amazing how lax maggies are. They seem like complex, magic speakers but when you get down to it you can screw with them a lot without effecting their basic sound.
No, do not coat the wires afterwards. This glue actually works. What you will also find if they stay open long enough is after you do it it will look wonderful, so clear and beautiful you'll want to cry. But when the DAP fully cures in about a week it goes from transparent to the ugliest rotten egg yellow, with ugly blobs stuck in places you never saw you left. Do not sweat this, it does not effect the sound at all. I had to do major work on my first pair (the pair featured in that post) and have since A/B'd them against several perfect smga's and you cannot tell them apart sound wise.
The only other thing is you might need DAP thinner. Acetone will dissolve but not thin DAP, and you can only get DAP thinner at ACE hardware stores. Home depot doesn't carry the thinner. It's handy for cleaning your brush if you plan to keep it but don't thin the DAP to apply it, it won't stick right then.
Go get em!
After pulling the socks off my 2.7's I did notice a VERY slight curling of the coils up top. It aint much and really is not easy to see. I was gonna put off doing anything about it till next year but have concluded to get it out the way asap.
My experience shows they go bad from the ends and as humid air continues to have access under the milloxane they continue to "rot". If you stem this now there is a good chance it will not progress further.Good luck with them
Hi Rob,After advice from "Peter Gunn" I used contact adhesive to stick down an 8" length of one of my IIIA bass wires (you don't need to use Milloxane if you use DAP). We don't have "DAP" here in Oz but we do have Selley's "Kwik Grip".
It has worked fine.
Connect up a 6v gel-cell to hold the wire(s) down against the mylar whilst the DAP dries.
Regards,
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