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What are you using to mount your speakers with. i.e between the speaker and the baffle?
1. A rubber ring which has the diameter of the driver?
2. Cork
3. just plain small washers where the bolts or screws are placed?
4. nothing ... mounted directly to the baffleAny demerits if there is a small space between the driver and the baffle if I just use washers?
Follow Ups:
A lot of good ideas. Saki for everyone then.
VJ
.....
:-)I fly my 8 inchers with with the same diameter felt ring, that accompanied them. Haven't as yet tried anything more compliant, but I did use thin/small rubber o-rings/washers for the mounting. At the driver's metal mounting flange/ears (front speaker face, to baffle), and behind/back of speaker flange (in front of nut/hold down). I may explore something more lossy than the felt, (if and) when I get my recently arrived twelves onto some birch ply.
My helper tweeter is flown with a polymer interface at its mount/bracket, which in turn has same, at its own baffle mount. I do think there is the possibility that semi-decouple (as it were) can do the music justice. But I have not introduced any comparisons/controls as yet to make any claims.
For my money, birch ply flies ever so sweet an' purdy, and thus do highly recommend. But of course .... have not tried 'butcher block' etc. (only mdf and birch/ply). And I use the ply with no bracing/damping of any kind [two angle bracket legs/bottom, and one rear wood tripod leg (top mount rear/small hinge) . Having found my music A.W.O.L., when panel bracing was employed.
If decoupling is what you have in mind, the primary aim of decoupling is to minimize transmission of vibrations from the driver to the baffle, so that the baffle doesn't itself act as a huge vibrating diphragm, coloring and "muddying" the sound.As a practical matter, if you have a very slight gap between the driver and the baffle, the sound will not suffer noticably due to the small amount of "sound leakage" through that gap.
There are "edgeless" drivers that are built with a small air gap between the cone and the frame -- in other words, there is no surround by design -- and these have just this kind of "leakage" unavoidably, but when the drivers are used properly the results are fine. (Obviously you couldn't easily use these in a sealed "acoustic suspension" type enclosure.) Such drivers could be used in open baffles with no problem.
However, if you are going to decouple the driver, make sure you really decouple the driver. If you have washers but the screws are tightened down tight on top of them, the driver and baffle will probably be effectively coupled.
The other thing to be careful of is, if the baffle is the ONLY place were the driver is supported, you don't want these supports to be flimsy. A driver that has the freedom to shake itself in its moorings is going to be a poor performer.
Most people who decouple their drivers from their open baffles have devised a way of solidly supporting the driver from behind, usually at the motor.
P.S. if you have access to Sorbothane sheet, that has good vibration damping
CW,
Again your suggestion is great. I'll buy you some saki if you ever make it to LA.
Cheers
VJR
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