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In Reply to: Respectfully disagree Jon........... posted by kenster on April 23, 2007 at 17:46:05:
I think the key is getting a good low resitance connection that does not go bad with time.If you were abnle to acheive that with bare wire, then you were either really lucky, or really know how to wrap your wire around a binding post.
As with many things, YMMV, but on the whole, I have not tended to hear superior connections with bare copper wires.
Jon Risch
Follow Ups:
Hi Jon,
As always your insights are appreciated. I've been aware of them for some time on the subject of crimping. Recently I set up a nice ancillary retro/vintage room in my basement and as I have a number of different tube and solid state amps, as well as different speakers, I've been trying to come to terms with efficient speaker connectivity. Bananas seem to me the easiest to switch around, but I've had issues with proper tension on some combinations w/ binding posts.To make a long story short, I've always felt inept to make good crimp connections for spades (or anything else for that matter) and those I've made by hand have been sericable but certainly lacking the assurance of a cold solder joint.
It would be a great service if you could provide some insight into the proper tools to achieve this and their cost/availability. When I've gone looking, I've ended up disuaded by cost and somewhat confused on exactly what would be best.
Many thanks in advance,
Chris
For most speaker cable spades, an uninsulated ratcheting crimp tool can be used to do the job.For an example, see:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=360-680
All of $18This is a "Crimp Frame", which is a set of crimping levers/handles with a jaw 'base' for an assortment of crimping dies to fit the jaws (the actual shape of the crimping surface jaws), which an appropriate one for speaker cable spades would be:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=360-684
All of $9Total cost with shipping, somewhere around $35 (unless you live in Timbuktu)
Another example is:
http://www.amazon.com/PRO-CRIMP-TOOL-NON-INSUL-TERMINALS/dp/B0002KR9H0/ref=sr_1_23/002-1761253-9608826?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1178158145&sr=1-23These will get the job done, but you can spend more and get an Amp or a Molex brand crimp tool ($100 and up), or get instant gratification by finding what is available from local electronics distributors, or Home Depot/Lowes, etc. Beware the $5 non-ratcheting crimp tool billed as "universal" or "general purpose", the crimp cradle needs to be the right shape, and hex, round or oval is NOT it for crimp-able spade lugs.
See the pictures in the URL's I provided, the crimp cradle needs to be of a final "U" shape, in order to keep the wire in a good spread out position, and to curl and tighten the spade lug crimp fingers together all the way. The Parts Express tool has three different sizes which cover a range of wire gauges.
If you have good hand strength, the ratcheting types are not absolutely necessary, but I do mean good hand strength. I can do it, but then, I used to be able to sometimes break the handles off of pliers if I got carried away. Not as much of a problem since the car wreck, but I still don't need a ratcheting tool.
I personally have a Molex brand general purpose crimp tool I got second hand for cheap, where the ratcheting mechanism was broken, so I can make some pretty good crimps whenever.
It may sound funny but I find making cables very relaxing and akin to gardening...there's always something nice to harvest. Based on what you suggested I'll probably go with the PE ratcheted device. I do have a good grip and use a Klein crimper now, but the ratchted device sounds more consistent and pretty reasonable. Many Thanks again!
Chris
I meant gas tight crimp or cold weld not cold solder joint.
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