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In Reply to: Here is what's wrong posted by Jon Risch on April 22, 2007 at 22:37:38:
.........while I don't discount your research into connector resistivity and connector solidity, and hold your research/opinion in the highest regard, I heard a MUCH better balance between drivers and a more natural presentation when I removed the Vampire spade connectors from a tri-wire harness of Acarian Sytems LTD. Black Orpheus speaker cable.The cables are feeding the speaker after the outboard passive crossovers and connecting the copper/silver stranded wire directly to the unplated copper binding posts on the speaker provided the above observations.
Could the "differences" I hear be attributed to the increased resistivity in the connections that U measured? I know I can tighten down on the high count stranded wire quite effectively without loosing any strands that could have been damaged/severed in the previous connection.
May I present that even in a "Proper" spade lug crimp using normal hand tools, there will be some copper strand deformation. In a high pressure crimp, the strands would be deformed to the point of fusing together, thus the term "cold weld" would they not?
I really don't think a "cold weld" connection can be implemented with normal hand tools. One needs at least a ratcheting crimper or a high pressure crimp machine. IMHO, AQ does it best with their fusing of the connector/wire with high voltage welding, thus eliminating the degradation that even the best mechanical crimps provide.
JMHO of course and I'm sure I'll be "taken to school" on this but I am always eager to learn.
Follow Ups:
I think the key is getting a good low resitance connection that does not go bad with time.If you were abnle to acheive that with bare wire, then you were either really lucky, or really know how to wrap your wire around a binding post.
As with many things, YMMV, but on the whole, I have not tended to hear superior connections with bare copper wires.
Jon Risch
Hi Jon,
As always your insights are appreciated. I've been aware of them for some time on the subject of crimping. Recently I set up a nice ancillary retro/vintage room in my basement and as I have a number of different tube and solid state amps, as well as different speakers, I've been trying to come to terms with efficient speaker connectivity. Bananas seem to me the easiest to switch around, but I've had issues with proper tension on some combinations w/ binding posts.To make a long story short, I've always felt inept to make good crimp connections for spades (or anything else for that matter) and those I've made by hand have been sericable but certainly lacking the assurance of a cold solder joint.
It would be a great service if you could provide some insight into the proper tools to achieve this and their cost/availability. When I've gone looking, I've ended up disuaded by cost and somewhat confused on exactly what would be best.
Many thanks in advance,
Chris
For most speaker cable spades, an uninsulated ratcheting crimp tool can be used to do the job.For an example, see:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=360-680
All of $18This is a "Crimp Frame", which is a set of crimping levers/handles with a jaw 'base' for an assortment of crimping dies to fit the jaws (the actual shape of the crimping surface jaws), which an appropriate one for speaker cable spades would be:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=360-684
All of $9Total cost with shipping, somewhere around $35 (unless you live in Timbuktu)
Another example is:
http://www.amazon.com/PRO-CRIMP-TOOL-NON-INSUL-TERMINALS/dp/B0002KR9H0/ref=sr_1_23/002-1761253-9608826?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1178158145&sr=1-23These will get the job done, but you can spend more and get an Amp or a Molex brand crimp tool ($100 and up), or get instant gratification by finding what is available from local electronics distributors, or Home Depot/Lowes, etc. Beware the $5 non-ratcheting crimp tool billed as "universal" or "general purpose", the crimp cradle needs to be the right shape, and hex, round or oval is NOT it for crimp-able spade lugs.
See the pictures in the URL's I provided, the crimp cradle needs to be of a final "U" shape, in order to keep the wire in a good spread out position, and to curl and tighten the spade lug crimp fingers together all the way. The Parts Express tool has three different sizes which cover a range of wire gauges.
If you have good hand strength, the ratcheting types are not absolutely necessary, but I do mean good hand strength. I can do it, but then, I used to be able to sometimes break the handles off of pliers if I got carried away. Not as much of a problem since the car wreck, but I still don't need a ratcheting tool.
I personally have a Molex brand general purpose crimp tool I got second hand for cheap, where the ratcheting mechanism was broken, so I can make some pretty good crimps whenever.
It may sound funny but I find making cables very relaxing and akin to gardening...there's always something nice to harvest. Based on what you suggested I'll probably go with the PE ratcheted device. I do have a good grip and use a Klein crimper now, but the ratchted device sounds more consistent and pretty reasonable. Many Thanks again!
Chris
I meant gas tight crimp or cold weld not cold solder joint.
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